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Thread: I'm really starting to hate TAPCONS!

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Lanciani View Post
    Hi Bob,

    When putting tapcons in vertical, you need to either go about 50% deeper than the screw length or blow all of the dust out of the hole. The dust packs into the bottom of the hole and has nowhere to go otherwise.
    I agree completely, blow out the hole, sucking with a vacuum just isn't the same. If you can put an air stream to the bottom of the hole it will do even better. If tapcons bottom out on the hole or teh dust in the hole they will snap 90% of the time. the screw threads also generate dust as they cut their way in so you need a hole deepr than the length of the screw by 25-30%.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  2. #17
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    Thanks to all for the replies and interest- guess TAPCONS have been a mixed blessing for others as well. Tonight I will trying "blowing" out the dust instead of "vacuuming", and will also put some soap on the threads before insertion. I might also try my impaxt driver to turn in the screws.

    The reason I used #3 phillips screws instead of hex heads is because I need to countersink the screw heads flush to not intefere with the oak flooring going over the subfloor. I'm not camming out of the screw- but breaking the screw stem where it meets the threads.

  3. #18
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    I wonder if you could drill the hole with one drill bit and keep a new bit around to "re-drill" the hole to make sure it is not undersized by a worn bit. You are breaking the screws in the same spot mine broke (when they didn't cam out). I'm surprised (dissapointed?) that when using the Tapcon recommnded size Tapcon drill bit for the Tapcon screw that they don't work (ie., drive without breaking). And IIRC, you're using the 1/4" screws and I was only using the 3/16", but had the same problem. I was using the 3" screws and drilling a 3" deep hole to mount 2x4s flat to the wall, so I should only be sinking 1 1/2" of the 3" long screw into the concrete.

  4. #19
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    Why don't you use 1/4" split pins instead. They are hardened steel and only require a hammer to install. Drill 1/4" holes, insert pin, pound down to flush. Way easier and cheaper than tapcons.

  5. #20
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    I've had my best luck with Tapcons in block walls.

    Usually use drop in anchors/bolts/washers in concrete.

    PHM

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Helm View Post
    Why don't you use 1/4" split pins instead. They are hardened steel and only require a hammer to install. Drill 1/4" holes, insert pin, pound down to flush. Way easier and cheaper than tapcons.
    I've never used them and may look into them if I continue to struggle. Would they work going through a sandwich of 1" insluation and 3/4" OSB?

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by John Coloccia View Post
    When I buil my shop, I had the same issue with Tapcons. Every other one would snap. I started driving them with an impact driver (actually, and old electric impact wrench....cheap Kawasaki I picked up from Pep Boys) and that completely alleviated the problem.
    I've used quite a bit of tapcons into my poured concrete wall in my shop, and use a Makita Impact wrench and have not had any issues with broken tapcons.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Winkler View Post
    I've never used them and may look into them if I continue to struggle. Would they work going through a sandwich of 1" insluation and 3/4" OSB?
    Yes they will. You just have to buy the right length.
    Last edited by David Helm; 05-12-2011 at 5:19 PM.

  9. #24
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    splitpin 001.JPG Just so you know for sure what I am talking about here is a picture of a split pin. I have used them for exactly the purpose you are talking about.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuong Nguyen View Post
    I've used quite a bit of tapcons into my poured concrete wall in my shop, and use a Makita Impact wrench and have not had any issues with broken tapcons.
    Tapcons with the hex head I presume?

  11. #26
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    Ok, here's my update. I had quite a successful evening last night. I managed to drive around 50 screws perfectly- no breaking or overdriving. I made 2 changes:
    - used a Hilti SDS drill with 3/16" bit instead of my smaller Ridgid hammer drill. For some reason, the SDS bit drills cleaner holes, and may be slightly larger (I didn't measure the bit diameter)
    - Used my Bosch impact driver to drive the phillips screws. The tapcons use a #3 phillips which worked great. My impact driver worked very well and was much easier on my hands/arms.

    So that's it- I just wanted to share my luck and hopefully prevent someone's future grief with tapcons.

    Bob

  12. #27
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    The SDS drill has a slower RPM then your Rigid Hammer Drill correct?

  13. #28
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    correct- and slower hammer rate, I think.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Sewell View Post
    Go rent a Hilti hammer drill. I didn't believe how good they were until I used one. I was tyring to drill with a Dewalt and was getting nowhere then switched to the Hilti and it went through 30 year old concrete like butter. Oversize the holes and GENTLY screw the screws in. DO NOT try to overpower the screws or they will snap, use the clutch on the drill and things should improve greatly.

    Doug nailed it here. we have a dozen or so Hilti TE-7's (the 7 replaced the 6 which replaced the 5); all work GREAT. If you can rent one of these models and purchase their 'Quick-con" screws w/ the hex head, you'll be well on your way to success.
    I often had the same complaints about tapcons before I used the Hilti products. Yes they are expensive, but worth every penny. I only break 1 out of 25-30 screws.
    Good luck,
    NWB
    "there is no such thing as a mistake in woodworking, only opportunities to re-assess the design"

  15. #30
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    I thinking more hammer effect less rotation. The HF SDS is 750 RPM with 2900 blows per second, much different than my rotary hammer drill. Not that I have an HF local, the next time I have to use the tapcons, I may just swing over with a 20% coupon and pick one up.

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