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Thread: Time for a new table saw....need some help.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Falls Church, VA
    Posts
    2,344
    Blog Entries
    1
    I just got a SS Industrial. In doing the research beforehand, one objection sounded pretty strange to me. It was suggested that I would become lax in my habits and start depending on the safety system. I didn't think that was the case and it turned out not to be the case...sort of... My hope was that I could forget that the safety system was there and just use the same good habits that I have always used. I found that I couldn't ignore the system.

    -- This is a little bit of the thinking mans saw. I have to be more careful about nails in the wood. I always checked for nails and stuff but now I have to be more vigilant. That's not a bad thing. It's just a thing.
    -- I was used to my Delta Uniguard which I could use with my dado head. I can't use the SS guard with the dado head which is a little scary. I fixed the scary problem by machining the dado throat plate to take wood zero-clearance inserts. Now I have the equivalent of 30 throat plates and can make all I want. Still, using a dado head without any guard is something I never would have done before.
    -- I have a Jess-Em miter gauge (aluminum). I found out the hard way that the screws holding the extrusion can come loose and the aluminum can slide. That's fixed now but I had a brake fire and ruined a dado head.

    In summary, I am still getting used to the saw. I don't think I will ever be able to entirely forget the safety system. It's just a different animal.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,925
    My first table saw was the SawStop Contractor's Saw. If I had to do over again I would probably buy their cabinet saw, but the SawStop has been great. No question I would buy a SawStop again. Very happy I bought it. And it's instructions are the best I have ever seen on any device. Truly amazing installation manual.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Hollingsworth View Post
    My biggest injury was due to kickback. Sawstop won't stop that.
    Slider was my answer. Specifically MiniMax Combo. I could never go back.
    +1
    I know how to keep my fingers away from that blade, but the a piece of wood coming back at me cost me two broken fingers and a few weeks out of the shop.

    Whatever your choice, focus on safety. Don't pinch the dollar and skimp on safety. You will recover the money soon enough.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    BTW, I see no reason why my Sawstop won't still be cutting wood in 40 years. I'd put it up against "Old Quality" any day.

    .

    Oh puleeze!

    I've looked at - and briefly played with - the Chinese made Sawstop and there's no way it is comparable to an "old quality" saw.

    My 1945 Oliver 270 has a riving knife, has a micrometer adjutable short Euro style fence, weighs 1300lbs and will cut circles (metaphorically speaking) around a Sawstop.
    There ain't nuthin' like the sound of a 14" blade driven by a direct drive 5HP motor - sounds like a gas turbine helicopter!

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by ken carroll View Post
    Oh puleeze!

    I've looked at - and briefly played with - the Chinese made Sawstop and there's no way it is comparable to an "old quality" saw.

    My 1945 Oliver 270 has a riving knife, has a micrometer adjutable short Euro style fence, weighs 1300lbs and will cut circles (metaphorically speaking) around a Sawstop.
    There ain't nuthin' like the sound of a 14" blade driven by a direct drive 5HP motor - sounds like a gas turbine helicopter!
    Weren't we talking about table saws? Pretty soon we'll be making comparisons with saw mills.

  6. #36
    I went with the sawstop and have been happy with it.
    I'll only add that if you are married or in a relationship where you share finance responsibility, it's a lot easier to justift a multithousand dollar tool purchase on the grounds of enhanced safety than on the grounds of "cooler", "bigger", or "more power".

  7. I would also look at the Hammer saw series. Euro slider with a cabinet saw price. Also go to www.feldergroupusa.com - you can win a Hammer saw valued at $ 4,000-00. They tell me if you buy a machine before the draw is done you will get the money back.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Lincoln, Nebraska, USA
    Posts
    114
    I purchased my professional cabinet SawStop (model below the Industrial cabinet saw) a couple of years ago because I type everyday at work and losing or injuring a finger would significantly impact how I work. Long story short, I paid a $1,000 premium for the SawStop professional cabinet saw over other comparable saws I was considering but today, I have long forgotten the pain of the additional money and enjoy the saw and the additional protection it provides.

    Have fun making your decision.

    Kind regards,
    Tom

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Pueblo, CO
    Posts
    329
    While many or any of the saws recommended are appropriate, let me add something to consider. You're 30. Scince I was 30 I have moved my shop to 3 states (I'm now 56). Unless you are a rare bird these days, you can expect to do the same. None of the places I've owned have had 220 volts available in the shop. While I've lusted after a big cabinet saw for years, no power means no work. If I were to go out today, I'd buy the Sawstop but get the 110 volt model. BTW, I'm a hobbiest, not a professional.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Fallbrook, California
    Posts
    3,562
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hulbert View Post
    While many or any of the saws recommended are appropriate, let me add something to consider. You're 30. Scince I was 30 I have moved my shop to 3 states (I'm now 56). Unless you are a rare bird these days, you can expect to do the same. None of the places I've owned have had 220 volts available in the shop. While I've lusted after a big cabinet saw for years, no power means no work. If I were to go out today, I'd buy the Sawstop but get the 110 volt model. BTW, I'm a hobbiest, not a professional.
    I fully agree with Dan.

    My SawStop (early model before there was a choice) is fantastic!!!!!!!

    When I bought it I had to have a 220 circuit installed in my garage. A few years later we moved to a new home with an even newer shop and I had the 220 installed before the concrete floor was set. Like Dan said, with the new saws you won't have to have a 220 circuit for the new SawStop table saw.

    Having said that my SawStop is so fantastic if I were your age I might have looked at a Euro Slider and Jointer/Planer. I was not very familiar with sliders when I bought my SawStop besides at my age relearning how to use the saw wasn't something that I was interested in.
    Don Bullock
    Woebgon Bassets
    AKC Championss

    The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.
    -- Edward John Phelps

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