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Thread: New breaker box

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    New breaker box

    I want to upgrade from a 125 to a 200 amp breaker panel. It's in the garage. I had an estimate of $2800.00 to replace it. Not move it just replace. Does this seem a bit high? I'm. In the Dfwarea inTexas.

  2. #2
    That's pretty high compared to estimates I got here near Denver. I had prices from $1500 to $1900 for a panel on the back of the house, and that included a new ground to the main water inlet inside at the far side of a finished basement. Which was about 80' of solid copper by the time they went around the patio, through the family room foundation wall, and fished through joist bays above a finished basement ceiling.

    I'd get a few more estimates, Steve.

  3. #3
    is this a sub panel or a service?

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    That seems quite high. Call another electrician, the guy that gave you the quote is overpriced by a good margin. At least if he were in the Houston market he would be...
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  5. #5
    Replacing a main panel is a pain. What you might think of doing is putting in another, bigger main panel and make your existing panel a sub panel. Problems might be in how, and where, your service is brought in and whether you have room to put another panel.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  6. #6
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    $2800 would seem high to me. $1200-1800 would be more of what I'd expect to pay here (surface mount might be even cheaper) depending on the number of circuits, etc, and assuming the meter socket can supply the power. You might pay hundreds more if the main run to the garage is long because copper wire is expensive (3 strands of 3/0 might be $20/ft total).

    Is the panel in the wall or surface mounted?

    If it is in the wall, you are talking about a lot more work trying to get all of the romex/emt connectors loose, cutting away the drywall (?) and prying the thing out from between the studs. I replaced one for a family member some time ago and it was a pain with the mains coming in the side via 2" rigid conduit and 34 circuits going out the top and bottom.
    Last edited by Dick Strauss; 05-24-2011 at 5:02 PM.

  7. #7
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    As a main panel, that was the exact quotes I recieved. I ended up replacing the main myself at the cost of less than $500 and a day off from work.

    If this is a subpanel, a new feeder is also required as well as the main panel breaker. How is the feeder run from one panel to the other and how far? 200A 4-0/4-0/4-0 Al SEU was $2.75 from HD and $4.30 from Lowe's around here. SuperBreakers.net had great prices on SquareD parts and pieces.

  8. #8
    To say the price is too high or normal is not possible with the limited information you have given. To cavalierly say it is too high is not informed and is not good advice. There are many things that can affect the cost. The cost of the panel itself will be no where near this cost. Without knowing how the existing panel is fed, from where it is fed, what size of cable was used, etc. it is not reasonable to make any such comment. If the service has to be upgraded the cost may not be out of the norm. It may require new conduit and cable from the utility supply all the way to the panel. Is excavation required? How many feet of wire needs to be replaced? Is the new panel size larger and will any carpentry work be required to finish the installaion? What all is included in the bid?

    My initial reaction is the price does sound high, but without knowing the particulars it is not possible to say for sure. Your particular installation may present problems that drive up the cost. Be aware that when a reputable contractor works on the panel, he must bring the entire installation up to current codes. If your current installation is deficeint he must address those deficeincies if he modifies it. The installation may be grandfathered now, but as soon as he changes the panel all the new codes apply. My suggestion would be to get a few more bids.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Palmer View Post
    My initial reaction is the price does sound high, but without knowing the particulars it is not possible to say for sure.
    My thoughts parallel Doug's. Along with all the questions that he raises, I'll also add the configuration of the panel. Although there's a chance that the new panel fits in exactly as the old panel did and the supply and all of the wiring out to the house fit up exactly to the new main and breakers. But I certainly wouldn't count on it. You can splice the wiring out to the house to add length as long as the wire is long enough that the splice is inside the panel. But if the supply forces you to move the box, then you could end up with junction boxes or gutters to contain the splices.

    Too many variables to pass judgement. But whatever the case, I'd be getting at least one more estimate and two to feel comfortable.

  10. #10
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    Depending on what else may have to be touched to update to current code, that number may not be too high - I have $1000 just in materials in the 150A subpanel I installed for my house addition - arc-fault and ground-fault breakers, 150A subpanel breaker, etc.

  11. #11
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    +1 Tom. The local utility also needs to get involved + there is the cost of the permit (varies wildly based on location). I had to have the outside meter replaced with a meter + shutoff to meet current code plus all the new stuff inside my panel to bring it up to code (GFCIs, no double breakers, etc.). Total cost was $2200 but that also included running a new line from the street (30ft underground) + a 50A hot tub panel & hookup.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Portland View Post
    +1 Tom. The local utility also needs to get involved + there is the cost of the permit (varies wildly based on location). I had to have the outside meter replaced with a meter + shutoff to meet current code plus all the new stuff inside my panel to bring it up to code (GFCIs, no double breakers, etc.). Total cost was $2200 but that also included running a new line from the street (30ft underground) + a 50A hot tub panel & hookup.
    What do you mean by "no double breakers"?

    We are still not sure if this is a main or sub panel, if the latter there may not be a PoCo call required. My upgrade required me to bring the box up to code, but not the whole house. The GFCIs were a gray area, I needed them one way or the other. I opted to put in breakers since 1) I could not find matching or similar GFCI wall plates, 2) I was already in the panel. The PoCo supplied the SEU from the weatherhead to meterbox and the meterbox at no charge. Like you said that varies on where you are.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell View Post
    What do you mean by "no double breakers"?
    I'm guessing he means no "doublers" - a one slot dual breaker providing 2 120V circuits. Certainly double pole breakers are legal, and required for many things.

  14. #14
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    Oh. No tandems (in SquareD lingo). They have to be allowed by the panel and then by local code. My new panel is a 40/40 (40 slots for 40 breakers). I had the option of a 30/40 (30 slots for 40 breakers), but wanted the bigger box.

  15. #15
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    I agree - the cost of a large box is almost exactly the same as a smaller one - not sure why anyone would put in a 20 or 30 slot box other than a perception of "overkill".

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