Workshop Oak Floor Finish

[Bob Winkler]

I'm near completion of the 3" T&G oak floor in my shop. I love it, and am now worried I'll screw-up by using the wrong finish. Here are some options I'm considering:

1. Shellac SealCoat followed by Oil-based poly
2. Shellac SealCoat followed by Water-based poly
3. 3 coats of Waterlox low-VOC

I've used oil-based poly on other floors in my house, but am thinking that a skin-type finish would not be very repairable for the shop. The Waterlox is repairable, but they only sell the low VOC version in my state, and it's expensive and relatively new and untested.

Are there opinions on these or other options I should be considering?

Thanks,
Bob

[Thomas Bank]

In response to a similar post: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...59#post1397359

Tung 50 from here: http://www.treehouselab.com/

Like you say, I'd advise against the poly because of the "skin" issue. Treehouse's tung oil is significantly less than Waterlox. Also, I did a bedroom in my house with the Waterlox and am much more pleased with the results of the Treehouse Tung 50. So far, it is wearing well, but very easy to dampen a rag and "buff out" any blemishes for a repair. Further, the odor was very minimal and not at all objectionable.

[robert raess]

My biggest concern would be are there any solids, as there would be in a Tung oil varnish vs. tung oil.Shellac is a great sealer but not hard.There are urethanes on the market [oil or water]that are avail. in matte finish.Zenith,Bona Kemi,I use in my flooring business.I have never like the dry times with penetrating oils or solid content or smell.One consideration i would make wood be for spills on the floor..pen. oils usually don't fair too well.Hope this helps.... Rob

[Dale Probst]

I used to do wood floors professionally and this
is what I would recommend. We have this on our house oak floors with dogs & cats and lots of foot traffic. You can repair almost any problems with the reviver. For large areas a buffer is handy; you can rent or Oreck makes a pretty good little orbital buffer.
DP

[Alan Schaffter]

I would stay away from any sort of film building finish on a shop floor- too slippery and dangerous. My shop has Advantech subflooring as a floor, so it is a bit textured though smoother than OSB. I sealed it with two coats of urethane modified enamel porch and deck paint. It is fine to walk on, but if I try to push something into the TS or jointer when there is just a little dust on the floor and my feet will slip out from under me. My non-slip mats also slide on the this stuff.

You might even consider leaving the flooring unsealed. I will be laying about 900 sq. ft. of oak in my shop next year and still haven't decided how I will finish it, but I will definitely avoid a film finish!!!

Remember, it is a "shop floor" after all!!!

[Bob Winkler]

Thanks to all. I know it's just a shop floor, but it looks so good now I want to try to keep it that way, within reason. I get more inspired to do better woodworking when things are neat, organized, and just the way I want them. Plus, my wife keeps threatening (or promising) to make my shop my permanent home if I keep spending more money on it.

Sounds like a penetrating finish could be the best compromise among ease of application, looks, and durability.

Bob

[Alan Schaffter]

I know it's just a shop floor, but it looks so good now I want to try to keep it that way, within reason. I get more inspired to do better woodworking when things are neat, organized, and just the way I want them.

Bob

I know what you mean. Some say my cabinets and benchwork are too nice for a shop!

[Joe Angrisani]

I'd cast my vote for a two-part water-based satin/matte poly from Bona.

[Bob Winkler]

Alan, now that's inspiring! Looks great to me.

Bob

[Mark Denovich]

We refinished our oak floors with Osmo Polyx. It is a vegetable Oil/Wax based finish. A year later our floors still look new... water beads up, scuffs can be buffed out or if deep, the finish can be repaired. It's low VOC, easy to work with, smells nice, hell I think you can eat the stuff. I used what was left in a can to finish my workbench: http://www.flickr.com/photos/denovich/tags/workbench/ (Unfortunately, I only have pics after first coat uploaded at the moment.) That half open can had thickened somewhat, and it resulted in a super high build. 2 coats, and even the big pores in the oak were filled. The two caveats: It was $70 for a 2.5l can when I got it last year. The finish might be a bit slippery for a shop floor (although I think this might be a problem with any finish that builds.)

[Scott Holmes]

Robert,

What makes you say it's not hard? Shellac is harder than most varnishes. De-waxed shellac is an excellent sealer. Shellac with the wax still in it, is so-so as a sealer.

[Bob Winkler]

In response to a similar post: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...59#post1397359

Tung 50 from here: http://www.treehouselab.com/

Like you say, I'd advise against the poly because of the "skin" issue. Treehouse's tung oil is significantly less than Waterlox. Also, I did a bedroom in my house with the Waterlox and am much more pleased with the results of the Treehouse Tung 50. So far, it is wearing well, but very easy to dampen a rag and "buff out" any blemishes for a repair. Further, the odor was very minimal and not at all objectionable.

Did the Treehouse Tung 50 provide enough solid for a suitable topcoat? How many coats did you use?

Thanks,
Bob

[Thomas Bank]

How many coats did you use?

As noted in the first link, three coats.