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Thread: Hall table

  1. #1
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    Hall table

    A craftsman that is a SMC member volunteered to help me with the design of my hall table project so far this is what he has designed from our E-mail exchanges. I think it looks great & will fit in out 43 1/2" wide hall very nicely.

    The measurements are 12" deep x 30" wide x 32" tall.

    This will be made out of white oak finished natural or with a very light (pale stain).

    Comments are welcome.
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    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

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  2. #2
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    Well, Bart, now the cat is out of the bag.

    I was just about to post a question in a separate thread but saw your post so I might as well stick it in here.

    We're working on the design for this table for Bart and we've settled on putting cockbeading on the drawers. I think that cockbeading detail should carry over to the apron and lower rail on the side panels. I've drawn that, see the attached. I realized there's a little detail that needs some help. You'll note in the inset, that the cockbeading on the drawer and on the apron don't line up due to the gap needed to keep the drawer front from rubbing on the apron. I've drawn the gap as 1/16" which might be more than is needed.

    The question, then, is should the apron and the bottom rail be adjusted in width so that the cockbeading forms a continuous line or is the tiny jog acceptable?

    Thanks for the input.

    Oh, and Bart, thanks for the compliment. I'm not sure I qualify as a craftsman yet. I should probably build something, first.
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  3. #3
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    30 views. No opinions? Must be a first.
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  4. #4
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    FWITW...I'd suggest lining them up. Also you might want to try a sketch carrying the bead right through the legs creating one continuous line around the entire front of the piece.
    oh Magoo, you've done it again

  5. #5
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    There is another way to do it, and they will line up. Instead of cockbeading the drawer, cockbead the divider, or drawer blade. GIve it a draw, and see what it looks like. The bead can easily be scraped on the blade, and it can be inset on the vertical. Mitered at the corners. Good chance to make a bead scratcher, which can be shaped with a chainsaw file ($2 or so). If you decide to go this way, let me know and I will post some info as this is the method I used on a Newport Kneehole Desk.
    Alan

  6. #6
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    I'd do something to those long straight legs -- perhaps taper them.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton
    I'd do something to those long straight legs -- perhaps taper them.
    I wondered if I was going to have to be the first to suggest that. Maybe it's just personal taste but I think they give pieces a bit more elegance. Could also maybe add the same bead on the legs too??
    Use the fence Luke

  8. #8
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    I like Alan's method for the cockbeading as it makes it easy to line them up...which is what I think they should be...lined up. The human eye is pretty incredible at noticing even slight devations on things like this.
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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the suggestions guys. FWIW, the legs in the second drawing at least have a little bit of taper to them. The drawing is still in the early stages though and tapering the legs will certainly be part of the final version.
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  10. #10
    Dave,

    Sorry I was gone for a few days....it should line up. Or it should be really obvious it is not supposed to line up. Lining it up would be my preference.
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  11. #11
    My first thought on scrolling the original picture into view was that the 3 drawers seem more than usual, giving the whole thing a more vertical look. This is okay, but somehow it reinforces a shape that already seems too boxy. The 30x32 dimensions are the reason. Could it be wider and more like a sideboard? If you keep the same dimensions, I would aim for a lighter more vertical feel throughout, perhpas by having the grain of the drawer fronts be continous vertically and/or the kind of small inlays along the legs you see in Sheraton pieces.

    These are just spontaneous thoughts here, but since that is the best kind for someone who has been staring at the idea for weeks on end, I will let them flow out. My second thought was that maybe a profile along the underside of the top would lighten the horizontal lines and let the 'lightness' of the tapered legs (almost a must IMO) continue, as you might see in a Federal piece. A heavy-looking top on light-looking legs does not work for me. A slightly thinner-than-the-legs rail under the drawers would help this too. It seems to me the goal on this piece is a lightweight vertical feel. Oh, already said that. I am done.

    I like it.

  12. #12
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    Have you guys built a mock-up of what a 32" high table will look like in your hall? It seems awfully tall to me. 32" is more like kitchen counter height.

  13. #13
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    Mark, thanks. I think after Bart and I spoke the other night, the cockbeading has been nixed.

    Tom, thanks for the thoughts. Keep in mind that my drawings so far are more massing studies than detail illustrations. The second one was only done to look at the cockbeading thing. You comment regarding a profile on the edge of the top is a good one. Bart already has a pretty good idea of what he'll do with that. In fact I think he has a pretty good idea of how the whole table will go together now. I just need to finish up a couple of drawings to give him something to work from.

    Steve, you have a good point about making a mockup to see how it will work in the space. Although Bart hasn't said this publicly, the table is replacing another piece of furniture. Perhaps that was the same height. I don't know. I any case, mockups are certainly a good idea.

    Thanks again gang. When I get something worth showing I'll post further drawings with Bart's permission.
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  14. #14
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    "When I get something worth showing I'll post further drawings with Bart's permission."

    Why not? Go for it Dave.

    Steve

    This table at 32" high has to fit in a certain place in the hall & is sized to fit

    there & is 4" lower than standard counter height but a little higher than

    standard dining table height which is 29".

    Thank you everyone your comments have been very helpful.
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

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  15. #15
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    Alright, here's the latest rev.

    Cockbeading deleted.
    Legs have more taper.
    Edge of top profiled.
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