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Thread: Hall table

  1. #31
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    Feb 2003
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    Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island, WA
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    [QUOTE=Jim Becker]Of course...that means you now need to actually make it!!

    Gee I think I need the use of a nice big Jointer/Planer wouldn't know where I could find one already set up would you?
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

  2. #32
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart Leetch
    Gee I think I need the use of a nice big Jointer/Planer wouldn't know where I could find one already set up would you?
    I know about several, but all are rather long commutes for you...

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
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    4,673
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton
    The woman in Dave's latest drawing made me look back at your table height. It is only 32". For me, that is low for a hall table. A hall table is only used by people who are standing. I'm a kinda average-sized guy, and while I'm standing, my knuckles are 32" off the floor. That is, most of your table would be down in front of my knees. I like to make hall tables taller -- at least 36", and better at 38".
    You got me wondering how tall my halfmoon table was so I pulled out the tape and the surface is at 32.75"
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15693
    I'm 6'3" and either I've got extra short arms or you've got really long ones. I still have to raise my arm up about 4" to bring my fingers to rest on the surface. My knee comes about midway between the apron and the lower stretcher on my table. I've actually had minor regrets that I didn't make it an inch shorter. 36 to 38 seems really high to me. Just my $0.02.

    Bart/Dave - the table has morphed into a very nice looking design.
    Last edited by Doug Shepard; 02-17-2005 at 9:27 PM.
    Use the fence Luke

  4. #34
    Bart, if there aren't any more changes, I'll get busy and redraw it to exact dimensions and get you some working drawings.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Pacific, Mo.
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    Hey Dave if your "giving " away drawings, I'll take a set too. I really like the design and the ability you have to use the Sketch Up program leaves me in aw.
    Jim

  6. #36
    Jim, it's really Bart's table. If he says it's alright, I'll send you the drawings when I've completed working out the joinery. I'm mostly finished with it but still have dimensioning to do.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    SF Bay Area, CA
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    15,332
    Man, the itch to buy SU is killing me...those are such nice graphics!
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla
    Man, the itch to buy SU is killing me...those are such nice graphics!
    'C'mon Chris...join the party!! You KNOW you want it...hee hee

    And Dave, those latest renderings are outstanding!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #39
    Chris, how many carrots do I have to dangle in front of you? Just kidding but I know you'd make good use of SU.

    Jim, thanks. Here's a little teaser.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #40
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Nice, Dave! I'm also in favor of curved doors as Jamie suggested earlier today on those corners. That's a bunch of usable space. Adds some additional challenge to the build, but...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #41
    Jim, you talk Bart into it. He's the one who gets to build it.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Richards
    Jim, it's really Bart's table. If he says it's alright, I'll send you the drawings when I've completed working out the joinery. I'm mostly finished with it but still have dimensioning to do.

    I don't have a problem with anyone having a copy of the plans as long as they build the table & display the pictures.

    I know sneaky aren't I?
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

  13. #43
    Jim Dunn, Bart said you can have a copy, too.

    I hope I don't get flooded with requests, now. I'm afraid my computer's pixel cartridge won't be able to handle it.

    By the way, I'll be expecting payment from everyone who builds this table. You have to promise to send me pictures of it completed.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Pacific, Mo.
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    Dave, a pic will be in the proverbial mail as soon as I get it completed. I do thank you and Bart for your generosity.

  15. #45
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    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
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    2,266
    I wonder if a full bridle joint wouldn't be an option on the top rail/leg joint? Or, a dovetailed stretcher from the front center to the back. Either or both would add a bit of strength. I think I read the whole thread, but didn't see details on the joinery. I am assuming that the drawer runners will be M&T, front and back. French DT's for the drawer fronts? Curved rails are to be bent laminations?
    Looks like the side edges of the drawer fronts will be coming to a point,and if so, will be prone to chipout in use. Might want to leave a bit of meat there to avoid that. Drawer fronts to be bent laminations also?
    Are you sure we can't get those cockbeads back? That would provide some shadow line interest on the vertical.
    I like the idea of doors on the ends, and suspect they could be bagged pretty easily.
    Love that SU. Wish I had another 6 hours in the day so that I could learn to use it. It is not the price that bothers me, just the learning curve.

    Alan

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