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Thread: Bart's Hall Table

  1. #1
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    Bart's Hall Table

    Alright, here's a drawing of the structure of Bart's hall table. I'm soliciting opinions on the internal structure. There's none of the fancy profiling or anything drawn in yet so no comments on that. The legs are tapered from about the midpoint. I left the line showing where the taper starts.

    There will be three back panels fitted into grooves. The curved side panels will also fit into grooves in the legs, apron and bottom rail.

    I haven't completed the drawer guides but I planning on all wood--no metal guides for this piece. That might be subject to change depending upon Bart's wishes.
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  2. #2
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    The table looks great to me David & wood guides I think are the way to go.
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

  3. #3
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    Dave,

    Looks good! I would cover the sides of the drawer case with plywood for rigidity. Do the drawer sides slide on a Dado or or they NK bottom sliders?
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

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    Me, I'd use plywood to make the back and the walls enclosing the drawer space. It is inexpensive, sturdy, and unseen.

    I'd also think about finding some way to use those triangular air spaces at the corners of the piece. One solution would be to turn the curved panels into curved doors. Another would be to turn the spaces into hidden compartments, accessed by bottoms which pull down.

  5. #5
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    Like Mark, I think NK drawers are a great way to build drawers which slide on wood. The best explanation I know of how to build them is in an article in Fine Woodworking #150.

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    Thanks guys.

    NK drawers? Esplain it to me, Lucy. FWW150 is no longer available.

    I did a little research on the FWW site and saw what NK drawers are. That was what I had in mind but didn't know what they were called. I wish I could get a copy of the article from FWW but it isn't even in the archive accessible from the CD registration.

    Plywood case sides would be a good idea. Plywood back pieces are already planned but I left them out of the drawing.

    Jamie, like you, I don't like to see wasted space. In this situation, however I think fixed side panels are alright. By the way, are you an over engineer like me?
    Last edited by Dave Richards; 02-23-2005 at 12:02 PM.

  7. #7
    Dave I think Bill Hylton explains it in here...somewhere...running...
    http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...dingBasics.pdf
    Glenn Clabo
    Michigan

  8. #8
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    Thanks Glenn. He has only a few words in that excerpt and refers to a page farther on in the book.

    Any chance I could beg someone to scan that article from FWW and send it to me?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Richards
    Thanks guys.

    NK drawers? Esplain it to me, Lucy. FWW150 is no longer available.

    I'll attempt a short explanation here.

    In many of the ways to build wooden drawers with wooden runners, there's a problem near the end, when you're fitting the drawers to the cabinet. You attempt to push the drawer into the cabinet, and maybe it doesn't go. The problem is that you can't see where the rub points are -- they're all inside the cabinet. The NK approach gets around this.

    In an NK drawer, you first build a sliding tray. It eventually will become the bottom of the drawer, but for the first stage in construction, it is just a tray. You can build it as a frame-and-panel with solid lumber, or some combination of lumber and plywood. At any rate, it has solid-lumber edges on the front-to-back sides. Those solid-lumber pieces are the drawer's sliding surfaces. Inside the cabinet, you form slots for the tray to slide in. You can form the slots by sticking solid-lumber "U-channel" to plywood, or by any other means.

    The next step in the construction is to fit the sliding tray to the slots. You want to tune the width of the tray so that it is just a hair narrower than the space. If you get it too much narrower, the tray will jam if you push in on one corner. You also want to get the thickness of the tray's sliders a little less than height of the slots. It is in this tuning step that the NK method is so convenient: you can see what you're doing.

    After you get the tray fitted, build the drawer sides, front, and back using any method you like. Stick 'em togther and fasten the result down to the tray. Done!

    In the NK drawer, the only parts of the drawer that touch the carcass are those runners on the edges of the tray. The actual drawer sides aren't involved at all in the sliding action of the drawer. (Sometimes if you're hand-cutting dovetails it is good that your accuracy at that is uncoupled from getting the drawers to fit. )

  10. #10
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    Dave,

    Jamie's description is correct. It is better to find an article on it. I think the FWW article was by Seth Janowsky. I will try to find it. Regular drawers will work as well if a dado is used to accept the wood slide. Accuracy is important.

    A way to acces the side panels could be using coopered doors . It males it a little more difficult. I have a Thread on the coopered doors and also on NK style drawers on SMC.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...coopered+doors
    Last edited by Mark Singer; 02-23-2005 at 4:02 PM.
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  11. #11
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    Thanks guys. I'll look through that thread, Mark.

    I posted a sketch with the drawers in it on the other thread. I used what I think is a modification of the NK runners. Later I 'll post other close ups that show more detail.

    Thanks again.

  12. #12
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    Dave,
    Here is the drawer thread...Let me know if you have questions...

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=bubinga
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Richards
    Thanks guys. I'll look through that thread, Mark.

    I posted a sketch with the drawers in it on the other thread. I used what I think is a modification of the NK runners. Later I 'll post other close ups that show more detail.

    Thanks again.
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the link, Mark. I'll take a look.

    OK, for everyone wanting doors on the side, I've done a version that way. What say ye now?
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  14. #14
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    Love It!!!
    Like the extra storage.

  15. #15
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    Bingo. That's the way I would want to build it if I build it. Storage space is dear in our home and every little bit helps. Besides, it increases the "learning" aspect of making this wonderful piece...and that's important to me.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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