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Thread: Hall table

  1. #16
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Oh, man...now I'm gonna have to put one of these babies on my list...which is too long already!! That's really sharp, Dave.

    Are you adding your own materials to S-UP?
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Jim, what are you adding to your list? The table?

    I found the material JPG somewhere. I turn the wood grain textures into two different ones in my photo editor so I have a vertical one and a horizontal one. I could e-mail the quartersawn oak textures to you.

  3. #18
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    Mar 2003
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    Yea....the table. I've been planning on a "hall table/cabinet" for the TV room between the one door and the window and was going to make it similar to the walnut end table. But I've been thinking that there is no problem with something "different" given that each piece I've made and placed in that room is a little differerent than each other piece...Shaker style end table, Nakashima-style natural edge "coffee table", sorta-mission LCD TV stand. All are walnut off the property and I would likely use more in this additional piece, but a combination of walnut and figured maple and the bow front would be nice. (I also have a small mahogany bow-front three-drawer cabinet in the room so there is some continuity there, too, at least with the shape, if not the material) I think I'd actually like to try more of a "studio" piece for that project when I get around to it.

    Do send me the QS textures (and maybe the cabinet drawing if you are willing). As I get more and more into SketchUp! (a lot of architectural things right now planning for a home addition) I'm finding that textures and other components are increasingly of interest. I did download all the stuff available for free from @Last...kewel stuff...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #19
    Jim, I seem to have misplaced your e-mail addy.

    Do you know about rotating textures, too?

  5. #20
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    Mar 2003
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    jim.becker at sawsndust dot com

    I haven't rotated them yet, but need to get on that bandwagon since I'm doing pretty much all my design work in S-UP at this point. When I hooked up with Martin Shupe last week in Dallas, I actually had trouble remembering some of the DesignCAD commands it's been so long....!!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Laguna Beach , Ca.
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    7,201
    Dave,

    That looks great! Really wonderful! You could try a flaired leg as in some of the Krenov cabinets...it may help balance the mass....there is a lot on top...just try it! Sketch up Master
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  7. #22
    Mark, I'll look at Krenov's stuff and see what I can do.

    Jim, if you need instruction on doing the texture rotations let me know. I e-mail you the stuff.
    Last edited by Dave Richards; 02-15-2005 at 12:40 PM.

  8. #23
    At the request of Bart and his bride, I have scaled his table up a bit. Now the top is 14" deep and 35" wide. The height remains at 32".

    It's probably hard to compare from the prior pictures but here is the drawing anyway.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
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    I think it is really looking great! Even though the Krenov flared legs never made it



    Who is the woman in the shadow?


    Only the shadow knows!
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
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    Looking good, but I still think I would cockbead the rails and drawer blades. My 2C.
    Alan

  11. #26
    Mark, I'm still working on the flared legs.

    The woman is just some chick component that came with SU.

    Alan, talk to Bart. Maybe you can convince him to build two. One with cockbeading and one without.

  12. #27
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    Mar 2003
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    San Francisco, CA
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    The woman in Dave's latest drawing made me look back at your table height. It is only 32". For me, that is low for a hall table. A hall table is only used by people who are standing. I'm a kinda average-sized guy, and while I'm standing, my knuckles are 32" off the floor. That is, most of your table would be down in front of my knees. I like to make hall tables taller -- at least 36", and better at 38".
    Last edited by Jamie Buxton; 02-17-2005 at 11:34 AM.

  13. #28
    Your knuckles are that high, Jamie? Mine nearly drag on the ground!

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island, WA
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    Talking

    My Bride of almost 22 years is very happy with the table.

    David your doing a great job I couldn't be happier.
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart Leetch
    My Bride of almost 22 years is very happy with the table.
    Of course...that means you now need to actually make it!!

    (I may try this design one of these days, too...it's a good one)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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