Which hand saw with plywood?

[James Carmichael]

That is true, Pam. Trying to horse a 4x8 sheet across a TS scares the bejeebies out of me. I break them down with a circ & guide first. Tearout is prevented by making a saw board that both guides the saw and supports one side of the cut. Make a scoring cut first and it's good and clean.

Now I see I will have to get the LV plywood saw:-) How is it on solid wood? I'm guessing it has more set than a normal Japanese saw. As I'm working with SYP lately, that may be a good choice.

By no means take my comments on hand-cutting plywood as the last word. I just know I've tried it and didn't like it.

[Pam Niedermayer]

...Tearout is prevented by making a saw board that both guides the saw and supports one side of the cut. Make a scoring cut first and it's good and clean.

Now I see I will have to get the LV plywood saw:-) How is it on solid wood?....

Tearout? We're worried about tearout in plywood?

I have no idea how the LV plywood saw works on solid wood, never tried it on anything but the ply. Now that I say that, makes me feel a bit ridiculous. I mean, why didn't I try it on other stuff? Unfortunately most of my stuff is still packed up, but I'll give it a try when all is unpacked in a few months.

Pam

[Brian Ashton]

Along the same lines as others that have mentioned japanese saws http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...884,42924&ap=1
This one has HSS teeth. I've had this one for years and it's been very good for all round work.

[Jim-M Campbell]

Well, I am embarrassed to say I can offer a bit of advice on your request......

I keep this saw handy for everything from tree limbs, demolition, Masonite, OSB and yes, all sorts of plywood.

Its got a mess of those dreaded impulse hardened teeth.

My saw looks like it was in a bar fight and didn't fare well (aka lots of missing teeth!).

The Stanley 15-085 runs about $12 at your finer tool merchants (some also sell garden supplies, toilets and curtains).

I assumed one day I'd replace it, but this thing just keeps on cutting despite my total (an possibly illegal/immoral) abuse.

Might not the first choice in sheet good breaking downing, but its proven to work good enough and at times, the only game in town. Why, one time I was on a ladder cutting some roof decking from my porch roof under shingles, but that's a long and much more embarrassing story......

Jim

[Jim Neeley]

LOL, Jim... One of those times where, just before the "event", you think to yourself "Why am I doing this?" and "This is dumb"?

Don't ask me how I know...

[Eric Brown]

Jim, a circular saw attached to a guide track allows you to make the mounting plate into a zero clearance opening for cleaner, straighter cuts. I modified my circular saw so a vacuum could be attaced, keeping down dust. I also used threaded inserts and machine screws when building my tool storage so that if needed it could be disassembled.

Modern tools for modern materials.

If I had to do it over though, think I would have used solid wood instead of ply.

Eric

[Jim Neeley]

Eric,

Creating a zero-clearance plate for my circ saw is a great idea. I don't have a track saw setup but have a two-piece 9' straightedge (clearance from Sears, $12) I use with my circ saw when I don't have the luxury of an assistant in cutting up sheet goods. It wouldn't take much to make a zero-clearance from a piece of lucite or corian.

Strange, for I've considered getting a WWII for my saw, but never making a zero-clearance. Talk about getting the cart before the horse!!

I'm wrestling with the ply vs. solid wood for my under-bench storage (first work bench w/wood vises and dogs). I'm going to have to come to a conclusion soon though since I finished the jaw for my L-N chain (front) vise last night and the jaws for my LV twin screw (end) vise today. Next weekend I'm hoping to get the skirt and vises mounted and perhaps the AAB legs. A few dog holes and then it'll be tool storage project time.

Thanks for the great idea, Eric!

Jim