Review of Iwasaki Carving File: It's really starting to grow on me

[Chris Griggs]

There's been a number of folks posting saws and other tools they've made as of late, and with that there's been a bit of inquiry about good shaping tools. I've seen a few mentions of the Iwasaki Carving Files on this forum but thought it might be helpful to provide some specific details about my experience with one I recently purchased.

Last week after visiting my fiance's family in PA, we headed out to the suburbs of St. Paul, MN to spend some time with my folks. Since there are no Woodcraft's or other woodworking stores in New Orleans, I took this as a opportunity to swing over to the MN Woodcraft to try out and buy some shaping tools. Unfortunately they didn't have much out for one to try, but after an hour or so of looking at different files and rasps I picked up a Nicholson 49 rasp and a 6"/150mm extreme-fine half round carving file for use on some saw handles I've been working on.

I won't go into detail about the Nicholson other than to say it works well and I was happy I got it as soon as I put teeth to wood. It does clogs easier than the one premium Rozco rasp I've tried, but overall works well.

The Iwasaki Carving File on the other hand took some getting used to and warrants some discussion. In fact, its feel in use of so unique, that I almost returned it after first trying it out. If you’ve read up on these files at all you’ve likely read that they cut the wood like a plane, where as rasp or bastard file tends to abrade the wood. This may not seem like a huge difference but in use it can somewhat translate into the difference between sandpaper and a plane. Rasps and most files don’t care much about grain – they work well going with, against, or across the grain, and though you get a different feel they work well on end grain too. The Iwasaki Carving Files on the other hand can be quite sensitive to grain. The first couple times I used mine I found that if I filed against or across the grain, my file had a tendency to dig in and get stuck. This didn’t mar the wood at all, but it did prevent me from getting a full smooth cut.

Despite my initial difficulties with the Iwasaki Carving File, I’ve continued to use it and every time I pick it up I find that I like it more and more. The secret, a VERY light touch… These files can cut very aggressively. In fact with a touch of extra downward force, my little extreme-fine file, cuts almost as quickly as my Nicholson 49. The trade-off, this little extra bit of downward force is what sometimes makes the file catch on and/or follow the grain.

There is a definite learning curve in using these files – much more so than with a traditional file or a rasp. Like when one first learns to saw, it’s helpful to work with the mindset that you should apply no downward force; just let gravity and the file do the work. Also, like sawing, after some practice you will find that you can apply some force to speed things up and will develop a feel for when and how much. Fortunately, the learning curve with these file’s is much shorter than the learning curve for sawing. It really only took me using the file a few times to develop the proper touch that allowed the file to cut well regardless of its orientation to the wood grain. Now that I have the proper feel for this file, I find myself picking this little guy up more and more often.

The final verdict? The Iwasaki Carving File is a tool that with a bit of practice will become a gem. As advertised, even the finest of these cuts FAST and leaves a remarkable surface. Not as smooth as a traditional – slower cutting file, but not far from it. In fact, I’ve come to like mine so much that I’m tempted to buy a couple larger, courser ones to use in place of Nicholson 49. I’ll even go as far as to say that if one wanted to get into making tool handles they could probably get by with just one or two of these and a bit of sandpaper. This of course wouldn’t be ideal, but still would probably be more than adequate. I haven't taken any pictures yet, but when I get a chance I will post some that show what it can do.

Yes indeed, this tool is really starting to grow on me, and at just around $30 a piece these files are great value.

[george wilson]

I googled it. I may have to get one of those. Its teeth look like the teeth on an aluminum file(for filing aluminum) that Simmonds made years ago. Not sure if they are still available or not in other makes.

However,tooth pattern similarity does not mean that they are the same sharpness. I have used the OLD #49 rasps for years. I find that they are TOO aggressive,and hang up a lot. When they get just a bit dull,they are better to work with. I'm wondering if the carving files might be too sharp,too? If so,just keep using them till they get a bit calmed down,and stop grabbing.

[Chris Griggs]

However,tooth pattern similarity does not mean that they are the same sharpness. I have used the OLD #49 rasps for years. I find that they are TOO aggressive,and hang up a lot. When they get just a bit dull,they are better to work with. I'm wondering if the carving files might be too sharp,too? If so,just keep using them till they get a bit calmed down,and stop grabbing.

I think you are dead on George, and have been wondering the same thing. The more I use it the less it tends to get hung up. The first couple times I put to wood it seemed like it wood catch even if I was using a light touch. I'd say it was about half way through the shaping of a saw handle when the cutting action started to feel really smooth. May have just need a touch of breaking in.

[John Coloccia]

My experience exactly matches yours, Chris, and I usually warn people trying the Iwasaki files for the first time that they require an extraordinarily light touch, especially at first. The sharpness may have something to do with it, but I think it's mostly getting the right feel. They behave differently than any shaping tool I've ever used except possibly a Vixen file on aluminum. I'm sure George knows that I'm taking about. They take a bit of a touch too to keep from grabbing on the edge of a piece of aluminum, but not nearly the same touch as the Iwasakis. Everyone who's used a Vixen file on aluminum has had the experience of a bad grab, but the grab on a Vixen file doesn't tear out the aluminum (aluminum doesn't tear out...LOL). It will grab the file and skew it across your work, leaving a nice, ugly gouge on your nice, formerly straight, edge.

I have almost the entire set except for a couple that I didn't think were very useful. It's my goto shaping tool, especially for fine work. I still love my rasps but my Iwasakis come out almost every day. What I love is that the surface they leave is very smooth right off the file, so it requires very little sanding and consequently very little opportunity to accidentally mess up my lines with clumsy sandpaper action.

The other thing to note is that they do remarkably well draw filing provided that you pay attention to grain direction. If you try it you'll be rewarded with very fine shavings and a glass smooth surface.

[Klaus Kretschmar]

My experience is similar but not equal. The carving file doesn't like strokes with a lot of downforce. The good thing is that it doesn't need plenty of downforce to cut quick. After having done a few strokes you will feel that the tool prefers light touch and it performs better if the stoke isn't straight but slightly skew. Taking care on this the performance improves another time if you allow it to add a little sidewards action and if you tilt it slightly by using not the middle section of the half round file but more one side of the blade (the left half if the sideward action goes to the right and the right half if you file to the left). After a little time of use you will know how to manage it to cut fast and smooth.

There are another two things worth to be mentioned. The carving file holds it's eges surprisingly good. I've two of these in heavy use on hardwoods for almost a year and I don't feel that there is less speed. The little shavings are curling still. A third one I've in use for one month now, there's no speed difference compared to the older ones.

The files are cleaning themselves while cutting. I've no other file that needs less care on cleaning up.

Klaus

[Chris Griggs]

I have almost the entire set except for a couple that I didn't think were very useful.

John, since you have almost the whole set perhaps you can answer the following for me. I am curious how the different coarseness's compare to one another. With the "extreme-fine" that I have being as aggressive as it is I can't help but wonder if the "mediums" would be overkill on anything other than large cabriole legs and the like. I guess what I'm wondering is if the mediums are too aggressive for tool handles and other small shaping tasks. On the other hand, I also am curious if the "fine" ones are appreciably more aggressive then "extreme-fine". Any insights? There is a Charles Niel video on Woodcraft's website demoing all the files and while it seems like the different coursness are pretty different its hard to say for sure from the video.

[John Coloccia]

John, since you have almost the whole set perhaps you can answer the following for me. I am curious how the different coarseness's compare to one another. With the "extreme-fine" that I have being as aggressive as it is I can't help but wonder if the "mediums" would be overkill on anything other than large cabriole legs and the like. I guess what I'm wondering is if the mediums are too aggressive for tool handles and other small shaping tasks. On the other hand, I also am curious if the "fine" ones are appreciably more aggressive then "extreme-fine". Any insights? There is a Charles Niel video on Woodcraft's website demoing all the files and while it seems like the different coursness are pretty different its hard to say for sure from the video.

I find myself using the "fine" on the larger tools, and the very fine on the smaller tools. The ones I don't have, that I thought were useless, were the mismatched ones...like I think they make a coarse one in the smaller sizes. I couldn't imagine using those. So here's what I have in my shop to put it all in context.

rifflers:


rasps:


close up of the Iwasakis:


From left to right, with apologies if I get the "fine", "coarse" etc terminology incorrect. I put an asterisk near the ones I use the most:

*small radiused extra-fine
*small flat extra fine
medium radiused fine
*medium radiused extra fine
*large radiused extra fine
large radiused fine
large radiused coarse
*large flat fine
*large flat extra fine

So, as you can tell I hardly ever use anything more than extra fine in the radiused cutters. That's not to say I never use the fine, but I never really use the coarse one...it's just too aggresive for me in most situations. If I had that much material to remove I would typically knock it off with a bandsaw, chisels, etc.

I do use the slightly more aggresive flat ones. Being flat, they're easier to control.

So yes, the different cuts do make a noticeable difference but it also gets that much harder to control. For really aggresive shaping, I go to one of the rasps. They take off a lot of material in a big hurry...more than I could take comfortably with any of the Iwasakis. What's impressive about the Iwasakis, to me, is how aggresive they are compared to the surface they leave behind, but I let power tools, chisels and rasps do the really heavy lifting. That's just a preference of mine. I'm sure there are people that use the coarse tools to do large scale material removal and get along just fine like that.