Ideas to stabilize screws in hardboard / mdf?

[Brian Kincaid]

My daughter's little kitchen has hardware (hinges) installed with tiny wood screws into MDF or some type of hardboard. They are not holding well, I have to tighten them up almost every day or the screws will work loose and fall out.

I was considering putting a drop of wood glue in the hole then screwing it in tight and letting it dry before playtime. Maybe superglue?

If I can't figure anything out I'll have to purchase some machine screws and drill through to secure with lock nuts. This is a noticeably less attractive option

Anyways, before attempting I thought someone on here might have a suggestion for me.

Thanks if you do!
-Brian

[pat warner]

If the thread has not been spoiled in the MDF a couple of drops of yellow glue will sieze it up. Test on scrap.

[Brian Vaughn]

Instead of just glue, which is brittle once dry, glue in a tight fitting dowel, and screw into that. It should hold very nicely. As another option, mix sawdust and glue to fill the hole, to give the screw more purchase.

[John TenEyck]

Rather than just glue/doweling the screw holes, why not glue the hinges on too? Epoxy if you have time, but superglue should do a great job also. I assume you never want to take it apart, so this should work and give you a lot more surface to get the job done than just those little screw holes.

[Larry Frank]

I have had very good luck with super glue in MDF or particle board. When ever I am making a jig or something out of those materials, I always super glue the holes.

[Kurt Cady]

A drop or three of yellow glue and 2-3 toothpicks. Break off the toothpicks then screw into those. Works everytime no matter the size of the hole (more toothpicks) or the substrate. MDF, particleboard, etc

[Jerome Hanby]

I've drilled out holes and filled them with threaded inserts. I buttered them up with epoxy before twisting them in, can't be sure that helped, but I figured it couldn't hurt. I've had very spotty luck using wood screws in MDF...

[Floyd Mah]

If you had not used the threaded insert, I would have substituted screws with a coarser thread pitch. Screw holes with a fine pitch will just crumble the hardboard.

[Roger Pozzi]

I've been very successful by filling pilot holes with CA and letting it sit until I'm sure it's soaked in and set up before installing the screws. Then, I use a hand screwdriver, not powered, to be sure of the amount of torque being applied. Works for me, that's all I can say.

[Brian Kincaid]

Wow thanks for the responses! Would have taken many tries before I would have tried to glue in a dowel or toothpicks. I think I will just purchase some epoxy (thanks for suggestion) and make it permanent!
Best. Forum. Ever.

-Brian

[Howard Acheson]

I have used fast set two part epoxy.

[Myk Rian]

I use sheet metal screws in MDF, after drilling a pilot hole.
Threaded inserts also work good.

[Larry Edgerton]

Epoxy is a woodworkers duct tape.....

I'm thinking I should send some to Red Greene.....

[Jerome Hanby]

The hand screw driver is a great tip, practically a necessity. MDF just won't hold up to over tightening the screws. I've heard that confirmant (sp?) screws work well in MDF. Cases where I've had to use a wood screw, I've bought the ones from the Borg that say they are intended for particle board, very coarse thread.

I've been very successful by filling pilot holes with CA and letting it sit until I'm sure it's soaked in and set up before installing the screws. Then, I use a hand screwdriver, not powered, to be sure of the amount of torque being applied. Works for me, that's all I can say.

[Carl Beckett]

Just another twist on the toothpick idea - I use golf tee's. Mount them backwards in the drill and a quick sand to remove any paint, then glue them into a drilled hole.

I also like '5 minute epoxy' - for all kinds of things. Although its really '10' minute epoxy......