What am i Missing?? need advice on TS Ripping issue

[Mike Metz]

I'm looking for some input on a problem I'm having with my new tablesaw when ripping narrow stock (3" & less). my old tablesaw ripped without any issues. (both are Grizzly's)
When i start the rip cut, the full edge of the board is flush against the fence, but when i am in the middle or approx middle of the cut the front end of the board is pulling away from the fence resulting in the blade cutting to much into the board. (Say for example the cut i intend to make is a 2 1/2" wide board, on both ends the board is a correct 2 1/2" but in the middle its 2 7/16" or worse) i have tried to adjust my hands and the pressure I'm applying to the board to over come the issue without any luck. the only way i can overcome this issue is to feed it using one hand behind the blade and the other in front, i know its not safe and want to get away from this. I have checked for blade/fence parallelism and both are at .000 when using a dial indicator. I'm using high quality Freud full kerf blades and the riving knife is set even with blade...so I'm asking for the help of anyone that has some advise on this issue.

Thanks for any advise in advance

[johnny means]

i have a similar problem. In my case the issue is my fence face, the ends bow towards the blade. At the beginning and end of the cut my stock can ride against the portion of the fence next to the blade, but in the middle of the cut the stock rides the ends of the fence while straddling the portion of the fence next to the blade

[Peter Quinn]

My first check wold be the fence plate face. Is it flat and square to the table over it's entire length? Is there some sort of splitter or roving knife involved, and if so is it adjusted properly?

[Myk Rian]

Have you checked the alignment of blade to miter, and fence to miter/blade?

[Harvey Pascoe]

I've had the same problem and eventually traced it to the saw blade getting a build up of resin on the sides of the carbide tips. I washed with lacquer thinner and a brass brush to remove it and it stopped. I think what was happening was due to excessive friction pulling the workpiece away from the fence and into the blade the further the cut went along. Is that what is happening? If so, check and clean your blade.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I have had the same problem as well. Blade is clean and flat. Blade is perfectly aligned to the miter slot as is the fence. Splitter and riving knife are aligned as well.

I have found this to be a problem when I'm feeding the workpiece without a feather board. I've also noticed this problem when I haven't jointed the edge and the face to get flat surfaces at 90 degrees to one another.

Have you tried using a feather board just before the blade, and are you jointing your workpieces before going to the table saw?

[Mike Metz]

Thanks to everyone input so far... this problem is driving me crazy!.. here's what i have tired based on input above.
I Start the initial cuts with a jointed edge of the board, consecutive cuts after are not jointed as i am using a glue line rip blade, that normally cuts very well.
My Fence is true and flat using a lee valley straightedge.
I have not used a featherboard as of yet, but i was thinking of that method as well.
I have cleaned the pitch and resin off all my blades and same results.
The alignment of the miter slot/blade/fence is all at .000 difference.

I am going to check the arbor run out of the blade, (i checked on initial setup, but not since)

I also failed to mention earlier that when the blade is cutting further in the wood, it is also burning the wood in the middle of the board but both ends are clean and smooth.
Once again thanks for all your help, and look forward to more ideas

[Don Jarvie]

I found myself with the same problem and its all about how your feeding it. I broke down and bought the Gripper. I found the problem was not enough pressure down on the board to hold it against the fence. To prevent this the board needs to stay against the fence as it passes the blade. Its fine at the beginning since you can hold the board against the fence as its fed into the blade and its fine at the end because the push stick will keep enough pressure on the end to keep it against the fence. The Gripper will allow you to keep enough pressure over the middle of the board during the cut.

I also found this can happen on a long board when you remove your right hand and switch to a push stick. The transfer is just enough to kick the board slightly away from the fence.

Don

[Jeff Duncan]

Before going further toss a combo blade in there and see if you get the same problem cutting a piece of either plywood or mdf. If not you know it's not the fence or alignment.

good luck,
JeffD

[Myk Rian]

Is the wood thicker than 1"? The GLR blade is only good to that thickness.

[James Baker SD]

Any chance your splitter or riving knife is not centered with the blade? Seems if it were a little closer to the fence than the blade is, it might try to rotate the workpiece as you push the workpiece past the knife.

[Mike Metz]

I have only been using 4/4 stock since i noticed this problem. i just triple checked the fence, arbor, blade and miter slot... all have less than .001 variance. i will try the plywood and mdf idea next. i have a Freud primer blade to try, so i will try that. all my other blades are from my old saw and are thin kerf so they will not work the the splitter or riving knife.. although i guess i can try them to see if that is the cause.

[joe milana]

Try toeing your fence in a LITTLE. I know your measurements say everything is parallel, but possibly there is an error sneaking in somewhere. The wood really wants to follow the blade with those side grind blades; I've had it happen to me. Read and trust the wood before the micrometer. If you get consistent burning on the fence side of the kerf, toe the fence out a bit. Use something like maple or cherry that burns easily while testing and make sure it's dry and stress free.

[Bob Carreiro]

It could be your blade causing the drift. Once you ensure your fence is parallel to the blade/TS slots and your rip still walks away from the fence, either change your blade, or get used to it and compensate for it. You can compenste for this drift by setting up a feather board on the far side of the blade, or simply apply pressure with your fingers on the board, pressing it against the fence after it reaches the far side. It works.

[Bob Carreiro]

It could be your blade causing the drift. Once you ensure your fence is parallel to the blade/TS slots and your rip still walks away from the fence, either change your blade, or get used to it and compensate for it. You can compenste for this drift by setting up a feather board on the far side of the blade, or simply apply pressure with your fingers on the board, pressing it against the fence after it reaches the far side. It works.