Band Saw Blade question

[Mike Allen1010]

I just inherited a 14 inch "Transplanar" brand bandsaw made in Taiwan with a 1 hp motor. I have no idea how old is or what it's working condition is.

I have never used a bandsaw before but would like to set this one up for re-sawing. I have a new 93 1/2" Olsen All Pro Blade labeld as follows:

Gauge: .025

3 TPI

Style: Hook

Set: Raker.

Width: 5/8"

Is this appropriate for re-sawing with this kind of saw? Any recommendations for blades that would work well for this application? I'm willing to spend a little bit more for a blade that will deliver better performance. I've read something about "bi-metal" blades?

I just started reading "the new complete guide to the bandsaw" by Mark Duginski and he says the widest Blade for 14 inch band saw is 1/2", but references the idea that blades wider than half an inch are usually thicker (.035"?), and therefore are liable to break due to the small diameter of the wheels on a 14 inch saw.

Because the blade I have is .025'" thick (I assume that's what gauge means?), would it be okay to use even though it's width (5/8") is wider than Duginski says I should use?

My last question is any general suggestions about the most important bandsaw tuneup techniques/ideas/accessories I should apply to my newly acquired bandsaw? As I mentioned I will use it primarily for re-sawing.

I'm primarily a hand tool user and really believe in sharp, well set up tools and am willing to invest the time -- I just have zero knowledge. I'm sure these are incredibly broad, naïve questions but very much appreciate any advice and suggestions that might accelerate my learning curve!

Best regards, Mike Allen

[Paul Symchych]

Bandsaw blade choice is like ice cream. Everybody has a favorite. I've always used Timberwolf and most recently tried an Olson exactly like yours, 5/8" 3tpi etc [but longer for my saw]. It resaws hard woods into veneer beautifully and has made me a convert to Olson. Set everything up and try it before chasing around for the blade flavor du jour. Don't feed too fast. The worst thing that can happen is that you don't like it. In the beginning the operator will be the biggest limitation.

[Neil Brooks]

My last question is any general suggestions about the most important bandsaw tuneup techniques/ideas/accessories I should apply to my newly acquired bandsaw? As I mentioned I will use it primarily for re-sawing.

Your first move -- Duginske's book -- was your best move. Tune your saw just like he says, from top to bottom.

I like the 1/2" Wood Slicer blade, personally, and use it as a general-purpose blade for nearly everything. It works very well for re-saw, in my experience.

Good luck !

[Andrew Kertesz]

While the book by Mark Duginski is a wealth of information blade size is really determined by the manufacturer. Most 14" saws wil take a 3/4" blade. It is true that a tuned bandsaw will give greater performance. Not knowing anything about that brand what is the resaw capacity? Tracking the blade properly will probably have the biggest effect on performance.

[Myk Rian]

Put a 1/2" 3-4 tpi Timberwolf blade on it. A 14" saw doesn't exactly tension a bigger blade. And I stand by those words, so don't anyone start an argument with me.
Tension using the flutter method. (Search here for that)

[David Kumm]

Stay with the 1/2 or so .025 blades. A 14" saw unless it is really a beefed up version will not handle anything thicker consistently or for any length of time. A large % of 18" saws have problems with a thicker blade unless it is a low tension blade. Dave

[Curt Harms]

If you have the 5/8" .025" blade, why not try it? I agree with the setup/tuneup being most important. If you can get the band to track in the center of both wheels and can get it tight enough either using the "flutter method" or about 1/4" deflection with the top guide all the way up and "moderate" pressure (I know, define "moderate" ) you should be in the ballpark. Give it a try and see how you do. Just don't try resawing veneer from $$ stock until you get some experience and get a feel for your new machine.

[Harvey Pascoe]

It took me three years before I finally got down to cutting perfect veneers every time, even after reading several books. The one thing they overlook is that the blade MUST be perfectly centered on both tires. If it is not you will either have toe-in or toe-out and the blade will not track straight. Many people, books and articles talk about adjust the fence angle to compensate for blade "drift." This is wrong. The saw will cut perfectly straight if set up properly.

Dull blades won't track straight either.

[Howard Acheson]

There are two issues with your blade. First is the one you mention about the thickness of the metal. A 14" diameter wheel causes the metal to "work" and harden as it goes around the curve of the wheel. This "working" will fairly quickly cause the blade to fail. Second, for almost all 14" saws, a blade wider than 1/2" is not fully supported on the tire around the wheel. This causes the blade to want to wander as it goes into the wood being cut. This cause a cut to br uneven in thickness and/or the cut surface to be quite rough.

All told, as Duginske says, the best blade for resawing is a 1/2" 3tpi blade specifically manufactured for resawing. It will give you the best performance once your saw is accurately set up and aligned. Follow Duginske's info and you will get the best performance. You will also find that Lonnie Bird's Band Saw Book will have the same cautions and recommendations as to resaw blades.

[bob hertle]

Mike

Despite the naysayers, your 5/8-3 x .025 Olson blade is perfectly appropriate for your 14 inch saw. Tension your saw to the max setting, not beyond. This blade at .025 thick, sees the same cyclic bending stress as any .025 thick band. At the same time, it affords a significant increase in blade stiffness over a 1/2" blade, even if only tensioned to the same level. Don't let anyone tell you differently--you cannot change the laws of physics. Your blade is not a particularly smooth cutting blade, but set up correctly it will cut straight! Centering on the crowns was good advice. The Olson blade having greater hardness, will easily outlast a Timberwolf 2 or 3 to 1. I have used both the 5/8 Olson, and Timberwolf blades of various configurations. I won't buy any more Timberwolf blades, but wouldn't hesitate to buy more Olsons.

Regards
Bob

[Paul Symchych]

I agree with Harvey on all counts. Wandering or drift are sure signs of a dulling blade or one whose teeth have deflected slightly to one side or the other. I've never adjusted fence angle although I kind of freehand compensated for drift until I figured that out.

In addition one thing that I've found very helpful after jointing two faces square, is using a featherboard to keep the 'lower left' corner of the board from wandering away from the fence and the cut surface becoming off-vertical. Easier than putting downward pressure on the edge riding on the table to keep the board perfectly vertical or relying entirely on a fence, specially when the board is getting thin. I cut 1/4"-3/8" panels more often than veneers. Veneers or panels come out a uniform thickness edge to edge.

[Myk Rian]

It took me three years before I finally got down to cutting perfect veneers every time, even after reading several books. The one thing they overlook is that the blade MUST be perfectly centered on both tires. If it is not you will either have toe-in or toe-out and the blade will not track straight. Many people, books and articles talk about adjust the fence angle to compensate for blade "drift." This is wrong. The saw will cut perfectly straight if set up properly.

Dull blades won't track straight either.

+1 on everything said.

[Jim Rimmer]

Lots of good advice so far. Check this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...bandsaw-blades

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks to everyone for your advice and personal experience. Your thoughtful contributions are super helpful! I sincerely appreciate folks taking the time to also post additional links and references etc.

I have another question about bandsaw set up but I think I will post it as a separate thread-- thanks in advance for any additional advice.

All the best, Mike