Advice on potential table saw buy -- Delta Model 10

[Tim Morton]

Here's a Jet that's somewhat close by: http://eauclaire.craigslist.org/tls/2533712978.html

By the wings... is this an "entry" model Jet and to be kept away from? I have kind of a "halo perception" of Jet as being one of the top saw manufacturers. Is that misplaced and based entirely on which model we're talking about?

Like bruce just said, dont be too concerned with stamped vs cast ...stamped will work just as well. That being said, make sure you are getting what you are paying for...i would expect cast wings on a used saw in the $300 range.

The jet seems to be the nicest saw you have shown so far, if its close enough to go look at it i think i would be interested in that saw, especially if it comes with the beis clone fence....jet has several fences available, some better than others...and i think the beis clone was the best.

[John W Henderson]

Thanks Tim -- that's good to know... but what would be the problem with the other Deltas then? Just their fences? Well, that and assuming I could get them down into the $150-250 range?

That Jet is a bit far away, but I thought I'd list it anyway. I'm in St. Paul. I've found all these just looking today. I bet if I started checking many times a day I'd find a hit soon enough.

This Ridgid TS 2424 looks reasonable? http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ra...522685328.html

I found this site which talked nicely about it: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/TS2424.shtml

[Greg Peterson]

The basic design of the contractor saw varies little from maker to maker. That said, a base contractor saw should cost no more than $50. What will increase the value will be the accessories. A aftermarket fence, mobile base and perhaps blades will push the asking price up.

I would be less concerned about the make of the saw than I would the goodies that come with it.

[Cary Falk]

Cary: i would wager that my delta is worth $400 with its 40in commercial biesi fence and table.

OK Tim, you got me there. You pile on enough accessories and you can tip the value scale. You would probably have a hard time getting anything more out of it in the current market though. Most likely the buyer would be buying the saw for the fence and reselling the saw with their own fence. Contractor saws are going the way of the t-rex. I liked my Delta when I had it. I thought maybe I bought into the hype after I got it. I helped a friend buy a temp. contractor saw while he builds a house. I helped him tune it up. I had completely forgot the flustration in tuning up a contractor saw.

[John W Henderson]

I helped him tune it up. I had completely forgot the flustration in tuning up a contractor saw.

Can you explain this more? And what are the alternatives? Just contractor or unisaw? If so, why is a unisaw more "tunable" than the contractor?

[Cary Falk]

@Cary: can you specify what's wrong with the Jetlock fence? And by "steel wing" you're talking about (what looks like to me) that kind of bent sheet metal type of wing?

Yest when I say steel wing I meen the stamped sheet metal. They bend, flex, twist. Cast Iron adds more stability and mass to dampen vibration. The Jetlock fences had the measurements stamped into the tubes. The scale is not as accurate as the new one. You will probably want to verify each fence move with your tape. The Jetloks also clamp to the rear tube. They can lock non parallel to the blade. Some OWWM'ers think they are servicable. I prefer my Biesemeyer clone.

[Cary Falk]

There is another alternative, a hybrid. New they are only a few hundred under a cabinet saw so it is not worth it. Used it could be a deal if the trunion is not attached to the table as some are.

Flustrations with a contractor saw.

1) To adjust the saw parallel to the miter slot you need to loosen 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the trunnion to the table. (PALS are the best $20 you can spend on contractor saw) The back 2 are easy because they are right there at the back opening. The ones in the front are a pain to get to. The blade gets in the way also. I could tweek the alignment by putting a little bit of pressure on the motor. On a cabinet saw you loosen 3 bolts on the outside of the cabinet and bump the table and tighten everything back up. DONE!
2) Tilt the blade to do a bevel cut and you have to align the blade again. The tilting of the blade and the weght of the motor racks the trunion.
3) Not an alignment problem but the saw was similar to the one I had and it felt like a toy.

[Greg Peterson]

The trunnion is the unit that holds the arbor. Looking down into the saw, it is the unit with the tracks or slots that allow the arbor to tilt. On a contractor saw the trunnion has two strikes against it. One is that it is relatively light weight. Second, it is mounted to the table. Both of these factors contribute to the trunnion racking when tilting the arbor.

With the blade set at 90 degrees, parallelism is relatively easy, especially with PALs. Getting the blade parallel at 45 degrees is a lot more challenging as this requires lowering the trunnion, via shims. Depending on which way the blade is out of whack at 45 degrees you may have to lower one or two corners. Parallel at 90 degrees does not guarantee parallel at 45 degrees.

Cabinet saws and hybrid saws have more stout trunnion assembly that is mounted to the cabinet with the table 'simply' resting on top. The motor is attached in such a way that it does not twist or rack the trunnion when setting for a beveled cut.

[scott spencer]

The Griz G1022 didn't sell for $400 new...tell them to pound salt! (not really!)

The Cman with the updated Exacta Rip fence might be a decent buy...offer to $200-$225. It has essentially the same guts as the Ridgid saw...different bolt on stuff.

I think that Jet would be a decent buy at $200-$225 also.

[Tim Morton]

, a base contractor saw should cost no more than $50.

as Dwight Shrute would say...FALSE!!!

A "base" contractor saw is going to run you $500 brand new, so feel free to defend your above statement...do you mean a 25 year base model saw in crappy condition? In that case...yes..$50 seems reasonable.

But a 10 year old base model saw in excellent condition should get $250-$300 depending on location and maybe even higher if it is pristine and there are not many on the market to compete with it.

[Tim Morton]

Thanks Tim -- that's good to know... but what would be the problem with the other Deltas then? Just their fences? Well, that and assuming I could get them down into the $150-250 range?

That Jet is a bit far away, but I thought I'd list it anyway. I'm in St. Paul. I've found all these just looking today. I bet if I started checking many times a day I'd find a hit soon enough.

This Ridgid TS 2424 looks reasonable? http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ra...522685328.html

I found this site which talked nicely about it: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/TS2424.shtml

The ridgid is a decent saw....and to your other question about whats wrong with the other delta's...probably nothing inherent wrong with them, other than the fence and the price.

[John W Henderson]

Greg, good to know. I'll have to just go look at some of these in a store some time to see. Cabinet saw = unisaw? Or not? Just trying to get my terminology straight. I haven't had to cut with the blade tilted yet, except for when I tried that as an alternative to my miter sled at 45 deg because the slot isn't parallel to the blade. The 45 tilt wasn't either, so no dice. But in buying a used one, it would be nice to have the tilt if I need it obviously. Good points.

If you shim the trunnion for a 45 deg cut... does it mess up the 90 deg settings? As in, do you have to set up for 90 deg cuts, then shim for 45s, and then if you go back to 90, do you remove the shims?

Also, what about everything in between 45-90? Do they all require their own odd-ball shims to make them work?

[John W Henderson]

Thanks, Tim. Maybe I'll just keep watching, then. So you're saying that a Delta contractor saw in decent shape should be 150-200ish? Or is that only if it's got a better fence? Oh, and is the fence not true or is the measurement mechanism bad?

There's another Ridgid that just came up today at a garage sale. It's a TS 2412 (I think that's it, though the response said TS 24120) and they sent this picture: https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...485755622-1&zw

They're asking $265.

[Greg Peterson]

Tim, I am indeed speaking of the old craftsman contractor saw. They are very popular on CL and some look decent, most are fixer uppers. Yes, the newer generation contractor saws are better, or at least worth more than $50.

[John W Henderson]

What about this one? It's a Grizzly 1022 and the seller sent pictures here:

- https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...f_grdogt7f0&zw
- https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...f_grdogyxb1&zw
- https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&i...f_grdoh4lt2&zw

Looks to be in good shape, but I don't know much about Grizzly. He says it has iron extensions and includes the mobile base and a Sears box joint attachment. He wants $400 which I'm sure is too much. Any thoughts on whether this would be a good model? Or should I just stick to hunting for a Delta in good shape for ~$200 or less? I now know I'll keep my eye out for Ridgids and some seem to like their Craftsmans, but they seem so touchy (love/hate and not much in between) that I think I'm going to pass since I have no knowledge about them.

If the above is decent, I'd be up for at least seeing it and giving him a take or leave offer? I'm fine with continuing to wait. Fortunately, I can "cheat" at work as I have a machining mill that I use where I need precise sizes and flat edges on small things like cribbage boards. It'd be nice not to have to flatten the end of a board because my cross cut wasn't actually perpendicular to the cut, though.

Thanks for any input.


John