Nailer/ Compressor help needed!!

[Jerry Olexa]

OK guys, starting to look @ air compressors and nailers . Will be doing some walls in my workshop soon and decided to finally treat myself to a framing nailer as well as later (what I really need ) a brad nailer. Of course, need an air compressor. Realizing I'm a hobbyist and with a bad back ,(don't want a 200lb monster), what should I look for and what really matters? Is CFM the key ? how about HP, tank size and PSI? Should I get oil-less or direct drive or belt drive? What brands do you guys reco? AND what nailers are the best and what sizes should I get for WWing? Do u need a finish nailer if you have a brad nailer? Anyway, you help/ advice will be a big help!! This post shows how little I know about this subject. For years, I have resisted because I dreaded the idea of dragging around the compressor and the wire. Thanks in advance...

[Dan Mages]

If you are buying this as a hobbyist and don't plan on doing any major construction, I would reccomend looking at the compressor and nailer bundle kits offered by Bostich, Porter Cable, etc... I have an old, but trusty Bostich compressor and a few nailers and they have done well. They are usually a good deal compared to purchasing the items separately. You will find many uses for a brad nailer when you do your ww projects and around the house. The rest of the info is beyond my experience and knowledge.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Jerry,

As Dan said, if you are only looking to run nailers, you could get by with one of the combos that go on sale every now and then. It would be a very good buy.

Tank size = the volume of air in reserve.

CFM is the amount of air that the compressor will put out at a said PSI. You will need a very high CFM compressor if you want to run automotive air rachets, spray guns, etc.

As you can see, you need to think about what you want to use the compressor for, then size it accordingly. Almost any compressor can run a finish nailer.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jerry, there are a couple of things to take into consideration. As stated by others......cfm, tank size, belt or direct drive, oil or oil-less. I bought a vertical tank because it takes up less space. I bought a compressor requiring oil because people I talked to said that the life is longer than for oil-less compressor. I bought a compressor that is belt driven because I figured if the motor went, I could just replace the motor. I bought one with a large enough tank and cfm rating to operate sprayers, air tools and nailers.

[Tim Morton]

Hey jerry...I have the PC pancake compressor, and it runs a framing nailer just fine. The 2 things I don't like about it would be the noise...its loud. And it is too small to use with a blow gun attached to it. I like blowing out my TS from time to time, or other things....and a bigger tank would be helpful. But if you are planning on dragging it along then you will need a small tank. The dewalt that the guy who built my garage was much lighter and quieter, which only means it must have been more expensive. If i had to do it again i would shop for a quieter unit. Good luck!!

[Tom Peterson]

Jerry,
Any of the major brands will serve you. You may want to consider the tool combo's of the framing nailer and brad nailer and get a bigger compressor. I use an oil compressor with belt drive and it is quieter. The larger capacity has helped for drywall texture, spray painting and auto repairs. I have a couple of air lines run in the basement and garage. If I have a small job to do, I fill up an air tank and use that for the brad nailer. Other than that I run hose to where I need to go. Hoses are cheap compared to back pain. BTW I have use PC without any complaints or problems.

[Bill Bezilla]

Hi Jerry

I'm fairly new to the Creek and have been mostly lurking in the background reading post when I get a chance.
i just went through this process and ended up with a Makita for one main reason
noise. Most of the new Makita compressors run at 1750 RPM instead of the
typical 3400 ~3600RPM.

Good luck!

Bill Bezilla

[Jim Andrew]

Just to add my .02, I have spent 30 years doing construction, and the
best nailers I have run across are Hitachi. Have had Senco, Bostitch,and
some other names that elude me right now, but the Hitachi needs less
service than any other brand I have ever had. Jim

[Rob Blaustein]

Jerry,
A few years ago my wife needed to install a bunch of baseboard and moulding and bought a Thomas T-30HP 1-1/4 HP 4.5 Gallon Pancake Tank Compressor from Amazon. It's not cheap (over $300) but it works great, it's oil-less, and it's very quiet (apparently these things can be very loud). At 50 lbs, it's not all that light, but you can move it around when you need to. The reviews on Amazon are uniformly great, for what it's worth. There's a review of 18 guage brad nailers in the Jan/Feb 04 issue of Fine Woodworking (#168).
-Rob

[John Hulett]

A couple of years ago, I got the $99 C'man 1 gallon as a gift. It works great for my finish nailer, but even on the occasional airing up of the car tires takes a lot longer than I would like. It does it, but slowly. As a woodworker (a really new one in my case), I would definintely be looking at spray finish capability if shopping for a new compressor. As others have said, ANY compressor will run a nailer; you should be thinking about what else you might want to use it for. Spray finish, paint, texture, pneumatic sanders, pneumatic wrenches, pneumatic grinders, pneumatic whatever!

[Jerry Olexa]

Hi Jerry


Most of the new Makita compressors run at 1750 RPM instead of the
typical 3400 ~3600RPM.

Good luck!

Bill Bezilla

Is lower RPM better? as it affects noise and power etc. Thanks

[Bob Wilkerson]

Don't know how rpm affects the noise but I prefer oil-lubed units to keep noise down in portable compressors. My site punch compressor is direct drive and oil lubed, daily use unit is oil-lubed honda gas engine powered belt drive, and the shop compressor is oil-lubed belt drive 175 psi FWIW.

Bob

[Jerry Olexa]

Spent some time this AM in the local BORG and Menards looking over the compressors and nail guns. I decided a framing nailer is not in my future. They are big, cumbersome (to me) and a bit pricey and need higher CFM and I'd seldom use them. I'm amazed one PC kit for $400 runs a framing nailer off a pancake?! So its looks like my primary need is running a finish nailer (15ga) and whatever compressor it takes to run that (and maybe a little extra). Looks like 2.6CFM is the magic minimum # for this type use. I've seen some really handy, lighter weight. 2.6 units on wheels but have reservations about the brand (in this case, Coleman). Looks like I can get in the game for about $250 and later get a brad nailer tho at this point, I don't know if I need both. A little knowledge is dangerous... Am I on the right track? Love to know your favorite tips,
brands... Gracias..

[Tom Ghesquiere]

Several years ago I bought a big Craftsman compressor because I wanted to be sure I had enough air. I overdid it, it takes up too much space in the garage! I use it mainly for keeping air in the car and mower tires and for a brad nailer, which has turned out to be a highly used tool. I bought the $89. Porter Cable model and have been really impressed. Only wish I had the pancake compressor so it was a more mobile outfit. IMHO, you will find the brad nailer will become one of the 10 most used tools in your shop.

[Karl Laustrup]

Jerry. I know just about enough about compressors to really get in trouble, but thought I'd throw this out to you.

From what I've seen a framing nailer is quite expensive unless you are going to use it a LOT. How about renting one from the local rent all place? It's gotta be cheaper than buying, especially for a one time use. I guess they would rent those.

Good luck.