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Thread: Cyclone direct vent outside

  1. #16
    Thanks for the comments. I would also be interested to see numbers from baffle vs cyclone. I think my plan now is to keep looking on CL for a cheap 3+HP blower an try a thien setup see how that works. Problem is the only thing I will have to compare with will be my HF unit, I won't really know how much better a true 5hp cyclone would be because I have never seen one. Either way I will measure the amps when I'm done and make sure I won't damage the motor, and add resistance if necessary to prevent an overload. Might also bite the bullet on a clearvue, I think they are having a free shipping event coming up. My main reason for direct vent is to be able to fit it better in the closet that it will be in as well as not have to deal with the filter.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Any chance you can move the entire blower (and separator outside- gives you more space and less noise? There is one VERY dangerous aspect of discharging outside (separated or not) - if you have gas or oil fired appliances in or near your shop the DC can pull flue gases containing deadly, but odorless, carbon monoxide into it.

    Again, don't try to run or bother test the current flow on the SF DC unless you have ducting and a machine on the front end- how it will be used in normal operatioon. While a blast gate on the outlet will allow you to control the current draw, it may unnecessarily reduce the effectiveness of the DC, once full ducting is added.

  3. #18
    Yes the entire unit is located ouside in a little closet with only the intake coming into the shop. No AC/heat or gas to worry about either. I will just run the amperage test after the system is completed to see if I need to do anything to prevent overloading the motor. Thanks

  4. #19

    ~

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Thien View Post
    If it pulls too many amps just put a blast gate or other obstruction on the exhaust and adjust it such that it doesn't draw too many amps.
    (I realize I'm responding to a very old thread. Sorry; hopefully someone sees this eventually.)

    A couple people on this thread said to check the amps drawn by the motor if you vent directly outside. My question is why? Wouldn't a motor driving a duct with less air resistance draw lower current? My rudimentary understanding of induction motors is that the speed is set by the number of poles and the frequency of the AC electricity, and the current is set by the load, which is air resistance in this case. So if you reduce air resistance by omitting the filter at the outlet of a cyclone, the motor would draw *less* current, not more. A quick googling shows that motors consume about 35% of the loaded draw when they are unloaded.

  5. #20
    Join Date
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    Paul, just the opposite as it turns out. When the fan is moving less air, it's drawing a lower amperage. With all blast gates closed, the motor/blower is idling with low current draw. When it's fully engaged (blast gate(s) open), it's drawing the most amperage and has the most loading. Some motor/blower combinations "require" some level of resistance on the output side to insure they don't "over perform", if you will. That's what the caution is about.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Nope, just the opposite. It is counter intuitive until you realize that reducing the restriction allows more flow and causes the motor to work harder. The worst case (highest amp draw) is a wide open DC blower with no ducting at all. The the motor will draw the least amount of current when the intake or exhaust of the blower is blocked.

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