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Thread: fluorescent light choices

  1. #16
    from your questions 1 and 2...

    1)The fixtures i used only had knockouts, so at rough in, we just left a romex wire hanging from the ceiling at each anticipated light location. (3/4" hole in the drywall). Then used a "romex connector nut"(not sure of the name) to hold the wire in the knockout hole of the fixture and protect it from the sharp edges.. IIRC, the knockout wasn't in the center of the fixture, which didn't center the lights on the holes we already had in the drywall. Check the fixture in advance, if this important.

    2) The wattage will depend on the type of bulb and the efficiency of the ballast. As for # on a circuit 'per code', I'd see if the ballast/fixture manufacturer has a recommendation, or a rated amperage per ballast. It may be printed right on the ballasts label.

    Your amperage question reminded me of something else....if you have a lot of fixtures on one switch, maybe buy a slightly heavier duty switch. My mom had to replace a switch in her kitchen..a few years after they switched to all CFLs in her can lights(maybe 12 lights on the circuit). The switch would arc-over at start-up because of the Fluorescent inrush current(start up current). You could hear it buzz in the switch. After a few years, it just buzzed longer and longer before the lights would come on, until they didn't. IIRC the heavy duty switch was $3.99 vs $0.39 for the regular duty: well worth not having to change it again in 3 years.
    Last edited by Don McManus; 08-29-2011 at 8:26 PM.

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