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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Polycrylic by Minwax application question?

    Hi All, I just got some of this and was wondering if anybody had any luck wiping it on like regular wipe on poly? I'm trying it because I've read it won't darken light woods. Any application tips appreciated. I know what's on the can but there's always other methods.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Massachusetts
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    Hi Alan,


    I'm just finishing up a project using waterborne poly & I use a foam brush to apply. Seems I heard it is best sprayed on or brushed on. It lays down smooth & then levels itself out. I have used this on several projects & it works good, but needs at least 3 coats before it begins to build up. Is there any reason why you need to wipe it on?
    Happy Finishing,
    John
    NOTHING beats a failure,but a try.
    -------------------------------------------
    Have a Blessed Day,

    JMC

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by John M. Cioffi
    Hi Alan,


    I'm just finishing up a project using waterborne poly & I use a foam brush to apply. Seems I heard it is best sprayed on or brushed on. It lays down smooth & then levels itself out. I have used this on several projects & it works good, but needs at least 3 coats before it begins to build up. Is there any reason why you need to wipe it on?
    Happy Finishing,
    John
    Hi John, The only reason I wanted to wipe it on is that's the only technique I use with poly. I really like wipe on poly except for the yellowing on lighter woods. Thanks Alan
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

  4. #4

    Smile Polycrylic by Minwax

    Alan

    I use and like Polycrylic. The only ways I have applied it though, are with a brush and spraying. I like to spray with an HVLP gun. It lays out real well and dries fast and clean-up of gun is a breeze. My last two projects were sprayed with polycrylic and they came out excellent. Too answer your direct question, I would think you could, but I would add an additive like flotrol to it. I use it when spraying also. When I get a chance, I'll try wiping it on a piece of scrap oak and see how it works. One thing is for sure and that is it will not yellow and finish stays clear forever.

    Larry

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
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    Alan,

    I like the polycrylic but as Larry suggested, try to spray it on or at least use a nice synthetic brush. Do not use a foam roller brush...it will introduce all these annoying bubbles in your finish.

    It dries fast and sands well. I used some 400 grit to knock it down and ended up applying 3-4 coats.

    Put a piece of plastic wrap (Saran wrap or whatever) between the lid and the can when you close the lid up...it'll keep dried crap out of the finish and make the lid easier to remove in the future. DAMHIKT!

    Basically, following what they say on the can will work out quite well for you. Keep a wet edge and don't brush too much. Since you need to apply a couple coats and will sand inbetween, your first couple of coats don't need to be perfect.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  6. #6
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    Feb 2003
    Location
    Sarasota, Fl
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    Thanks guys

    I think I'll take your advise and go with the brush. I wish I had a spray gun but I don't yet. I did buy some of that Bullseye shellac in the spray can and boy is it nice to spray! Thanks again. Alan in Md.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

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