Wall Switch or Remote For Dust Collector?

[Ole Anderson]

Do you wear it around your neck when working at your machines?!?!?! Aren't you concerned about getting garroted if the lanyard gets caught.

Don't use it like that at my jointer, the only machine I am concerned about. I often hang it on the adjuster handle of my MS.

[Jim Becker]

I started with remotes and eventually moved to a centrally located wall switch that controls a simple contactor in the cyclone closet. Remotes are easy to misplace and in some cases, unreliable over time. Hard wired just works...and taking 6-8 steps to get to the switch really isn't a major issue if you think about it. In fact, it may help you pace things so you don't rush. Rushing increases the likelihood of mistakes. DAMHIKT!

[Tom Willoughby]

I am actually installing a new dust collection system right now and after using a remote control for years, I decided to go with low voltage micro switches on the blast gates. This will solve a couple of issues that cropped up from time to time: 1st, I didn't clip the remote control on an apron and I would occasionally want to make a cut on the miter saw only to realize that the remote control was over on the table saw. The 2nd issue was that while cutting on the miter saw with lack luster suction, I realized that I forgot to close the table saw blast gates.

With the micro switches on the gates, the dust collector will start when a blast gate is opened and will not shut off until all blast gates are closed.

Good luck.

Tom

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a conveniently located push button station for my cyclone, no remote controls.................Regards, Rod.

[John Lanciani]

When I bought my Oneida system they were having a special on extra remotes (something like $10 each) so I got one for each machine that is connected to the dust collector. I used velcro to attach the remotes to the mag switch enclosures on each machine so now I can start and stop the collector right from the operating position of each machine. No walking around and no searching for the remote, it is the perfect solution for me.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Contrarian........my normal style......

I have a 12+ year old long ranger driving the 3hp 220v DC. And one 12+ year-old remote, and 2 7-year-old remotes. None of the 4 components has ever failed.

The three remotes have adhesive-backed hook + loop patches on them. One is one the top of the TS rip fence. One is immediately above the jointer - pretty much directly above the power switch. The 3d is on the face of the upper wheel door on the BS - and is 1 step from the planer.

I don't lose 'em - they have a "home" - almost are permanent from that standpoint. The one on the TS fence gets moved the most often - simply because it is in the way when I clamp on secondary faces, stop blocks, etc. But - other than that, there were zero wiring cost/issues, and the switches are right where I am standing when I use the machine[s]. Too convenient for me to want to change - got tired of walking around to the DC before I got the long ranger, and then got tired of playing hide-and-seek with the single remote. The technical term is "lazy".

[Ben Hatcher]

I used a long ranger with micro-switches on my blast gates at first. Then the long ranger shorted out and melted my dc cord. Next I used a Christmas light remote which also shorted out. I'm currently using the iVac with the key fob remote that I attached to my apron. That makes me wear my apron more often which has reduced the time I spend looking for pencils and tape measures and prevented me from ruining a shirt or two.

[Mike Cruz]

You guys use dust collectors? Sheesh...

[Patrick Maloney]

I am actually installing a new dust collection system right now and after using a remote control for years, I decided to go with low voltage micro switches on the blast gates. This will solve a couple of issues that cropped up from time to time: 1st, I didn't clip the remote control on an apron and I would occasionally want to make a cut on the miter saw only to realize that the remote control was over on the table saw. The 2nd issue was that while cutting on the miter saw with lack luster suction, I realized that I forgot to close the table saw blast gates.

With the micro switches on the gates, the dust collector will start when a blast gate is opened and will not shut off until all blast gates are closed.

Good luck.

Tom

I went this route and love it. I used homemade blast gates with recessed normally-open mag sensors and a contactor. It's a cheap, efficient way to control any DC setup. I also added an adjustable delay-off timer so the DC stays running for a while after the gates close.

[Joseph Tarantino]

now, if there was a simple way to activate the blast gate automatically when the machine it services is activated, and continue to have the DC activated by the opening of the blast gate, wouldn't that just be the ultimate in DCing convenience? tool activation that activates the DC and opens the appropriate blast gate. anyone know of any such setups?

[Alan Schaffter]

now, if there was a simple way to activate the blast gate automatically when the machine it services is activated, and continue to have the DC activated by the opening of the blast gate, wouldn't that just be the ultimate in DCing convenience? tool activation that activates the DC and opens the appropriate blast gate. anyone know of any such setups?

Exactly what I did- check out the link in my post above (#10).

"Activation" is the "simple" part- a current sensing switch mounted at each outlet or between the outlets and power cords.

Actuation of the gate can be a little complex however. There are two basic approaches (1) electro-mechanical where a motor turns a leadscrew or worm gear (ECOgate) which drives a follower or rack assembly connected to the gate slide. Also, an electric solenoid and linkage falls in this category, or (2) electro-pneumatic- an electric solenoid air valve is used to port compressed air to a pneumatic cylinder which operates the blast gate (the method I used.)

Current sensing switch:



Prototype "pneumatic auto-gate":



Working "pneumatic auto-gate":

[Joseph Tarantino]

alan, that's slick. i'd seen something about your set up in the past, but didn't have the opportunity to view it completely. i can't imagine there being a better way to address dust collection and tool activation in a fully automated environment. cudos on a well thought out and executed application. and so i'm clear on it, each blast gate that services a tool has a corresponding power outlet associated with it. once that outlet draws curent, it's affiliated current sensor activates a low voltage "switch" which signals the blast gate to open and the DC to activate. how does the low voltage signal from the current sensor activate the blast gate and the DC? so as not to appear to be hijacking this thread, would you rather PM the reply? thanks.

[Alan Schaffter]

alan, that's slick. i'd seen something about your set up in the past, but didn't have the opportunity to view it completely. i can't imagine there being a better way to address dust collection and tool activation in a fully automated environment. cudos on a well thought out and executed application. and so i'm clear on it, each blast gate that services a tool has a corresponding power outlet associated with it. once that outlet draws curent, it's affiliated current sensor activates a low voltage "switch" which signals the blast gate to open and the DC to activate. how does the low voltage signal from the current sensor activate the blast gate and the DC? so as not to appear to be hijacking this thread, would you rather PM the reply? thanks.

Thanks! You are pretty close. Each machine has its own dedicated outlet. Those outlets each have a current sensor which IS the switch (toroid coil + integral PNP transistor). When a machine is on, current flows in the cord and outlet wiring. The sensor switch toroid is essentially a mini transformer with only one primary winding- the wire you run through the hole. The toroid has enough secondary windings that it needs only .3 amps in the power wire (primary) to induce enough current in the secondary to operate the transistor switch. The small orange and black wires coming out of each switch send 24 VDC from a single transformer to their respective solenoid air valves. A special* current sensor on the transformer power lead detects when any gate is operated (manually or automatically) and sends a *momentary signal to start the DC. I'll forward you a PM I sent earlier to someone else.