Well. I am finally almost done with this beast of a project. I am at the point where I am going to spend the next few days scraping and sanding the top, finish sand evertyhing, mount the top, and finish. The clock is ticking for me to get started on a crib but I don't want to rush this project.
I bought Waterlox Sealer/Finish to use to build up the base coats and then use the Waterlox Satin as the last two coats. I have heard that about 7 or 8 coats are required and I am dreading applying the finish on the chairs. I just have the cheap Rockler HVLP but know plenty of people that can help me learn to spray. Also bought the set oil brushes off of Tools for Woodworking/Gramercy thinking I wouldn't even try to spray the table itself and wanted the highest quality brushes I could find.
This brings me to my questions. Sorry in advance for the length of the questions.
1) Has anyone sprayed Waterlox and what results did you get from spraying it? I know most will say don't try it but...
2) Phenolic resis is supposed to yellow the most over time of those making up varnishes according to Flexner. I am talking about the yellowing from the resin itself yellowing and not the ambering that the BLO/tung oil imparts on the wood. Does anyone have pieces of furniture made out of a light wood like maple they could comment on/post a picture of that has been completed using Waterlox and over a few years old? Does P&L #38 pop the grain like Waterlox and is it as durable/repairable?
3) How many coats would you do of the sealer / top coats if Waterlox is what I was to move forward with? I applied 2 coats on some test bubinga and have to say that it seems like I would need at least 4 to get good coverage. I want a satin / natural finish while making the grain pop.
4) A fine woodworking article titled "Wiping Varnish: The only finish you'll ever need." showed a regiment of wiping Waterlox on but according to the Waterlox site they say to use nothing more than a brush. I am concerned that applying such a slow drying finish to the vertical surfaces will prove to be challenge. Especially with all of the spindles in the chairs. Any thoughts on the "right" application method?
Fine Woodworking Article: http://www.finewoodworking.com/Mater....aspx?id=33891
Waterlox Application Instructions: http://www.waterlox.com/assets/pdfs/...uide-FINAL.pdf
5) Sorry. Last one. Would you fill the pores? Seems like Waterlox has a self leveling nature to it that lends itslef to not needing to fill the pores but I could be wrong.