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Thread: Using a feeder on a jointer

  1. #1
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    Using a feeder on a jointer

    I found a used jointer/planer and the owner has a feeder mounted to it right now. It looks like a nice thing to have...but it got me thinking. A feeder is going to put alot of downward pressure on the board correct? It seems to me, that removing a bow or cup in a board would not work, with the pressure of the feeder wheels. I'd like to know if I'm thinking this all wrong. I may offer to buy the feeder with the j/p if its a worthwhile add on.
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  2. #2
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    I also don't see a reason for a feeder on a jointer for the same reasons.

  3. #3
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    Generally they are mounted on the outfeed a little behind the cutterhead so they pull the board after it has been jointed. You have to take big enough cuts to flatten in one pass. Dave

  4. #4
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    I played with mounting a unifeeder to a small 6 inch jointer the results where good as far as passing the wood over the cutter and keeping it square to the fence. For badly cupped and twisted boards you are correct its better to run those by hand, cross cut the defect to minimize it, or just move to another board. The unifeeder was not intended for use on a jointer. Even though the results where good with fairly straight wood, joint the edge to match the face would require removing from the machine. To much goofing around for me, so I did all my flooring blanks by hand. Like David K said if you can't get it one pass ........

    This link will take you to the post. BTW I already caught a lot of flack for footwear, lack of sox, and camera technique. Nuff said
    Last edited by David Nelson1; 09-28-2011 at 10:29 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Generally they are mounted on the outfeed a little behind the cutterhead so they pull the board after it has been jointed. You have to take big enough cuts to flatten in one pass. Dave
    Yes, except that if you use little wooden shims strategically placed to prevent movement, you can take multiple passes. They only need to be tiny, sawdust piles even work. [But you should ask yourself if it is worth it to try to flatten severely warped, cupped, or twisted wood in the first place.] Before I got a moulder, I used 2 jointers with feeders - one facing, one edging.
    JR

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Nelson1 View Post
    BTW I already caught a lot of flack for footwear, lack of sox, and camera technique. Nuff said
    LOL, Nice setup!! I missed that post, makes it appealing when one has alot of jointing to do. Do you still have it mounted and happy with the operation?

    I think JR stated what should have been obvious to me "[But you should ask yourself if it is worth it to try to flatten severely warped, cupped, or twisted wood in the first place.]"
    A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.

  7. #7
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    It seems like it would be a pretty big hassle to use a feeder on the jointer. I like the idea of it, but if the two faces of the workpiece are nowhere near parallel, I can't see how the feeder would be able to feed the board through. And if you have to take many passes, you'll have to continually move the feeder down (closer to the table) every 2 or 3 passes.

    But if you have a board with faces that are close to flat and parallel, I could see how it would really improve your safety and the quality of the cut.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aeschliman View Post
    It seems like it would be a pretty big hassle to use a feeder on the jointer. I like the idea of it, but if the two faces of the workpiece are nowhere near parallel, I can't see how the feeder would be able to feed the board through. And if you have to take many passes, you'll have to continually move the feeder down (closer to the table) every 2 or 3 passes.

    But if you have a board with faces that are close to flat and parallel, I could see how it would really improve your safety and the quality of the cut.
    There is enough travel in a feeder "suspension" that uneven surfaces are not an issue. The main benefits are for long boards where the feeder is like a second set of hands putting pressure exactly where you need it, and for when you have a lot of parts to run. Personally, I am prone to carpal tunnel issues, so a feeder was necessary for what I do.
    JR

  9. #9
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    J R, what jointer and feeder do you use? I could see a feeder on my 16" jointer would be great for long,thin, or wide boards. I think my 8" is too small to carry the whole thing without causing more problems than it would solve. Western rollers help too. Any size recommendations? Dave

  10. #10
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    I did edging on an 8" jointer with 1/4 HP feeder. I did facing on a 12" General with 1/2 HP feeder. I made a custom bridge guard for the facer, similar to a euro guard, but fixed to cover the whole head. For a 16" jointer that might see timbers, a 1 HP feeder would be what I would choose. 3 wheels are probably adequate, and yes - poly wheels help, along with a can of topcote.
    JR

  11. #11
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    I ran a couple of boards thru it after I moved the feeder completely to the outfeed table. Dang things feed rate is too fast for the hp rating of that jointer. I could only take a 1/32 or so off because it was moving so quick. I tried to figure a way to slow it down........ that didn't work either. Beside having to remove the feeder to joint the edges I let the idea go.

    I actually bought it for my table saw. Had to build a clap trap to mount it to because it was intended for a Unisaw with a larger than 1.5 HP motor. My first attempt on the TS with 4/4 oak was a disaster. Stalled the saw and everything got jammed up. I switched blades from a Freud glueline to a Forest WWII 24 teeth it works now, but it's still to fast for my small C-man. Anything gets outta kilter it stops feeding, wax really helps. Can't move fast enough to get to the other side.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Monson View Post
    LOL, Nice setup!! I missed that post, makes it appealing when one has alot of jointing to do. Do you still have it mounted and happy with the operation?

    I think JR stated what should have been obvious to me "[But you should ask yourself if it is worth it to try to flatten severely warped, cupped, or twisted wood in the first place.]"

  12. #12

    Feed me...

    Absolutely you can use a feeder on a jointer and for any amount of repetative work I do so. It works a charm and speeds up my one man shop when I have a pile of lumber to joint. At first it took a bit of fiddling to get the right set up which yielded flat boards now it's second nature. I use a feeder on my 12" and now current 16" jointers. A feeder can keep you safe, reduce fatigue and make you money.

    Even the cheaper imports have drive trains which you can adjust to slow the feedrate to a crawl.

    Try one, you'll like it. Not just on your jointer...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Fournier View Post
    Absolutely you can use a feeder on a jointer and for any amount of repetative work I do so. It works a charm and speeds up my one man shop when I have a pile of lumber to joint. At first it took a bit of fiddling to get the right set up which yielded flat boards now it's second nature. I use a feeder on my 12" and now current 16" jointers. A feeder can keep you safe, reduce fatigue and make you money.

    Even the cheaper imports have drive trains which you can adjust to slow the feedrate to a crawl
    Try one, you'll like it. Not just on your jointer...
    Obviously Chris your using the type that is designed for a shaper or jointer. The one I have was for a table saw and it does have an adjustable feed rate it just wont go slow enough for an under power T/S

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by David Nelson1 View Post
    Obviously Chris your using the type that is designed for a shaper or jointer. The one I have was for a table saw and it does have an adjustable feed rate it just wont go slow enough for an under power T/S
    My feeder was not designed for any particular machine David, the manual shows it being used on the big three, jointer, TS and shaper. I think that your problem is not shaper related, it is the underpowered TS as you have pointed out.

  15. #15
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    We are saying the same thing LOL

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