Hand plane preferences?

[Robby Phelps]

Plane question
<HR style="COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->I am getting going in the hand tool realm. Being trained in my uncles power tool dominate shop, has left me quite ignorant to the joys of hand tools. I picked up my first block plane two years ago and it has been very useful and fun to use. I then picked up a set of spokeshaves and they have become my favorite tools in the shop especially when i make my rocking chairs. I now want to expand my tool arsenal with some more planes and wanted to ask the group wether they prefer the metal type planes (Lie Nielson) or the wooden type. I was reading Mark Singer's post about the purple heart plane he recieved from Steve Knight. I used to live in the portland area and have seen his planes and they are beautiful and feel wonderful in the hand. I am leaning towards the wooden planes but wanted to get everyones opinion.

Thanks in advance.

[Derek Cohen]

Robby

I do not think that you will go wrong with any of Steve's planes. I'd buy them if I lived in the States but, since I live in Oz, I enjoy my HNT Gordon planes (sold in the USA as well). My favourites are the Smoother and the Try Plane. OK, the shoulder planes too! They are remarkable planes and excel (with the best in the world) in planing the trickiest interlocked timber around.

For wooden planes, second to the HNT Gordon planes but ooooh such a bargain (!!!!!) are the Mujingfang planes (available from a few USA stores, including Lee Valley). Amazing value for money!

Among the iron planes, my favourites in the new planes (so I am not including vintage planes here) are the LV LA smoother (particularly with a 64 degree cutting angle) and LV LA Jack. There is a jointer length LV LA planes coming out soon. These three planes could do everything possible to do with a bench plane, and do it superbly (as good as the best).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tim Sproul]

I wouldn't limit myself to one or the other.

I have many Knight planes (from small polishing plane to 32 inch x 3 inch jointers/trys) as well as many Veritas planes. I've kinda settled on Knight woodies for bevel down bench planes and Veritas for my "specialty" bench planes. Namely, I have the LA block, LA smoother, LA jack and the scraper plane amongst the metal planes.

[Mike Holbrook]

Could someone leave a link for the Knight planes. I have no idea where to go to check them out.

[Mark Singer]

I would agree to be open and try to get a varity. The LN planes are excellent as are the LV. I have the LV LA jack and their Med. Shoulder. I also have the ECE Primus collection including the Reform smoother , the Try. Jack, and others. The Knight plane seems excellent. I would probably use it for difficult woods and use one of the oters more often. I will find the link.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/

[Steve Kubien]

I'll put in a good word for Knight planes. I've got a coffin smoother and jointer (well, and a plough which I haven't had time to test drive) and these are my go-to planes. I haven't touched my Stanley's in quite some time. I don't even remember the last time I picked up my jack plane.

Warmest regards,

Steve Kubien
Ajax, Ontario

[Tom Saurer]

Have a basic stanley #4 and the ECE scrub plane. I enjoy them both.

[Ken Garlock]

A couple of months ago I ordered from Lie Nielsen two videos on planes and sharpening there of. The first was by Bob Cosman and the second(2 DVDs) by the English gentleman David Charlesworth.

Bob Cosman's recommendation regarding the purchase of planes is that, as a basic set, you need four: 1) #60 1/2 low angle adjustable mouth block, 2) #60 1/2-R low angle adjustable mouth rabbet, 3) #4 1/2 smoother, and lastly a 4) #7 jack. Of course all were L-N planes

David Charlesworth recommended the #5 smoother instead of the 4 1/2.

I recommend both videos. You can see two methods of using water stones for sharpening that are similar but still a little different.

Disclaimer: I am not a hand tool aficionado, but I do have a #60 and a #4 1/2.

[Robby Phelps]

Thanks everyone for your input. I was wondering though do the two different types of planes (wood/metal) have advantages or disadvantages over each other. I am still leaning towards purchasing Steve Knights planes. There is just somthing about a wood plane that speaks to me. Can't really explain it but i want to make the best choice and if the Lie Nielson or metal planes is the answer then so be it.

Thanks again for all your input.

[Mark Singer]

I would go slow....buy one and see if you like it. Another tip...Steve Discounts them on Ebay....just do a search for his name, or Knight Plane

Thanks everyone for your input. I was wondering though do the two different types of planes (wood/metal) have advantages or disadvantages over each other. I am still leaning towards purchasing Steve Knights planes. There is just somthing about a wood plane that speaks to me. Can't really explain it but i want to make the best choice and if the Lie Nielson or metal planes is the answer then so be it.

Thanks again for all your input.

[Roy Wall]

Bob Cosman's recommendation regarding the purchase of planes is that, as a basic set, you need four: 1) #60 1/2 low angle adjustable mouth block, 2) #60 1/2-R low angle adjustable mouth rabbet, 3) #4 1/2 smoother, and lastly a 4) #7 jack. Of course all were L-N planes

Wow!! I feel like I made a "pro decision" - and I'm not even a pro!! Those are the exact planes I "logically" started with. I also added the LN LA #62....

[Rob Millard]

Robby,

I have both wood and metal planes, and despite my traditional leanings, I prefer the metal ones, especially for a smooth plane. Metal planes, are easier to adjust ( although wooden plane aren't difficult to adjust), and their weight is a benefit, in most cases. The LN planes are great planes, I own 4 of them, but the Lee Valley planes look just as good and cost less. The only place the LN planes are superior to the Lee Valley is they are available with high angle frogs. I'm a firm believer that a York pitch is the key to getting a fine cut in difficult grain. No one else has mentioned the wooden Planes by Clark and Williams. I have one of their 30 inch jointers that I use often.
Rob Millard

[Mark Singer]

Robby,
Another great woodie is the ECE 711....John M. just put one on SMC classifieds...

[Mike Holbrook]

The LV, LA planes are available with a "high angle" blade which, with a simple blade switch, converts them to a York pitch. The blade switch only works on the LA planes but seems like a simpler, less costly solution to this novice.

I have been wondering if there is some advantage to standard bench planes with frogs that I am not aware of? I have a couple old Record bench planes and a similar Paragon plane from Garret Wade that need to be restored, so far I have not found much about their frogs that appeals to me. The reversed blades and adjustment system on the LV's, however, seems simpler and more versatile.

[Robby Phelps]

Thanks again for all of the imput everyone. I did have a question though and please forgive my ignorance. I was wondering what is a York Pitch? Rob Millard (who I really admire) mentioned it and said it worked in really difficult grain. I do work with a lot of exotics and highly figured woods. Is this an iron sharpening and or bed angle that works paticularly well with these types of challenging woods?

I really also feel I am a little over my head with these hand tools. Can anyone reccommend a good book that describes the proper and efficient use of these tools. I have taught myself how to sharpen and feel that I have become good at that process and I am happy with my results. I just do not know how to use planes and especially what each one is for. Any help is greatly appreciated.