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Thread: Ferrules for Making Tool Handles?

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hartranft View Post
    Any words of caution on damaging my HSS turning tools doing this on brass nuts?

    No damage to your tool.
    Think about it, your tool Is High Speed Steel designed for cutting tools: drills, taps, milling cutters, tool bits, gear cutters, saw blades to machine steel
    So using your tool on brass or copper is like butter compared to steel.

    I prefer the look of brass
    I buy brass nipples for ferrules cut them to length on my bandsaw

    I thing there are some exotic woods that are harder than brass, lignum vitae for example...
    Carpe Lignum

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    Another vote for brass. I like the look and its fairly easy to turn. I used some older (cheap) tools and a file and slow speeds. A while back I bought a couple of kiln dried cherry blanks that came with brass ferrules. The price was right and I like having stock on hand. The ferrules worked well and look nice too. Tapered on the inside on one end with a preformed dimple, just drive them on. They were much thicker than copper pipe and brass is stronger too.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  3. #18
    Every time this comes up I have to chime in to say I like to use bronze bushings.
    David DeCristoforo

  4. #19
    When David Ellsworth gave a demo at our woodturning club, he said he makes his ferrules as large as possible, and then wraps them with strong twine and CA glue. I tried one, and it seems to be working fine.
    Scott Hurley

    11th Commandment: Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's new lathe.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    E. Central IL
    Posts
    132

    RE: Ferrules for Tool Handles

    Appreciate the numerous, varied, and helpful posts sharing your experiences. Collectively, you've given me a variety of sound approaches to adapting ferrules to my tool handle-making.

    Thanks.


    Tom

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    198
    I use brass fittings, screw them onto the wood and cut the corners with a carbide cutter in my Oland tool. Brass is much stronger and looks better than copper.
    If I had six hours to chop down a tree I'd hire someone else to do it and put my time to better use.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Washington state
    Posts
    511
    I buy C330 .75" OD .62" ID tubing in 6 foot lengths and cut it on a metal lathe. It has a near polished finish so it takes very little time to make it shine like gold and it is dirt cheap per piece.

    http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Round-Tu...6638392&sr=1-1

    I made these handles and used the brass tubing on them.

    l.jpg

  8. #23
    copper while down week, is still high, occasionally you can pick some up cheap at estate sales, usually stuck in box with bunch of odds

    craft supplies sells brass tool handle ferrules in two sizes; fall/winter 2010/2011 issue page 15 bottom left

  9. #24
    It all depends on the type of wood. Brass, copper, aluminum, and steel. During the past 12-months there was an article in one of the turning magazines that featured a turner and all his obsessions on ferrules. He used all kinds of odds and ends and resulted in some interesting personalized handles.

    As far as turning down a brass nut or flat sided ferrule...it is easy. Yes, HSS will cut it. However, I really don't like dulling up a nice gouge. Instead I would recommend two tools to use: (1) Tool with HSS cutter as in the straight cutter used in most hollowing tools or (2) heavy guage scrapper.

    If you want a fun project you can make a dedicated HSS cutter tool for these types of uses. I went to my local automotive store (Autozone) and bought a 3/8" socket for a 1/4" wrench. You will find brands of sockets where they have recessed the corners, which are best since this is area most likely to bind when sliding a 1/4" square HSS cutter into the hole. You will need to anneiling the socket - heating it up with a propane torch (MAP gas) and let it slowly cool down in order to soften the steel enough so that you can drill a hole into it. I drilled and tapped a hole into the 1/4" side of the socket for a set screw to hold the cutter in place. Turn a handle and drill a hole to fit the OD of the socket. Epoxy the 3/8" side of the socket into the hole. If you pick one of the longer length sockets you can tuck away extra length of HSS cutter into the handle and as you loose material from sharpen the cutter you have extra that you can extend out. The 1/4" HSS cutters are readily available at most machinist supply shops for about $2.50 each. You want the square profile - 1/4" x 1/4" x length (2" - 3" is standard length)

    If you don't want a project and don't want to use your straight bar hollowing tool then get a pair of vise-grips and a length of HSS cutter stock... and as my country friends would say "go to town with it"
    Last edited by Edward Bartimmo; 09-23-2011 at 11:15 AM.

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