First round of new tools have been ordered (this was Santa's present to me)!
G7944 12 Speed Heavy-Duty 14" Floor Drill Press
G0656P 8" x 72" Jointer 3 HP w/ Mobile Base, Polar Bear Series®
Having those machines sitting in the garage will be additional motivation to get the shop done ASAP!
Can you expand on your process for the floor? Do you plan to glue the foam board down? After you lay the OSB how are you going to attach it or will it just 'float'?
This is an excellent idea as well. I have a door already in the space but a little less than 1.5 inches to put down flooring and I have been wracking my brain on what I could use. I was planning on putting down 5/8 strips and then laying plywood on top of that, but I like your idea much better.
I learn the most from threads like these. So many good ideas and much knowledge sharing.
I’m cashing in all my chips to make it happen…to ensure that discipleship is the primary thing my life revolves around.
I am not sure yet if I will glue the foam board down or use Tapcon concrete screws to secure the OSB. I did glue the foam I put on the block walls. Make sure you use a non-solvent adhesive that won't eat the foam board.
The whole thing may float - just to make installation easier. And if for whatever reason I need to pull it up in the future, it would make that job much simpler. I am going to have a lot of machines,cabinets, and benches all over that shop. There will be so much weight holding down that floor that I don't think I will experience much "sponginess". But - now you have me thinking. Perhaps I will consider securing the floor...
I am putting Pergo (from HD, $1.88/sf) on my concrete basement floor. Been in the house 37 years and it has never been wet. I am planning on just floating it over the wide rolled foam (Robert's 2 in 1, 25 cents/sf), taping the joints. I'm not following the need to go with Delta FL, OSB, etc. Seems like a huge complication. Once I get it in the rest of the finished basement, I am going to sprinkle a little sawdust on it to see how slippery it will be. If not too bad, I will extend into my shop.
Last edited by Ole Anderson; 12-31-2012 at 12:09 AM.
One place on yuor drawing you indicate 220v are to be 30A and in anther say 12ga wire everywhere. For 30A you need 10ga, whether 120 or 22/240. I recommend installing 10ga anywhere you think you may want to upgrade to 240V in the future as well. For my shop I'm home-running 10/3 so any outlet could become 240V or two-breaker 120's without pulling new wire.
Last edited by Jim Neeley; 12-31-2012 at 9:58 PM. Reason: Typo, Changed a "20" to "30".
One can never have too many planes and chisels... or so I'm learning!!
Ole - In our case, the laminate floats over the Delta FL. Did not use OSB, or other underlayment, or tapcons, etc. - just roll out the Delta FL on top of the concrete floor, tape the seams, and lay the laminate on top.
Our green concrete floor (installed in April 2012) is releasing moisture, and the moisture is then removed from the work space. The shop humidity is controlled with a mini-split system.
The wood laminate is more slick than an unfinished wood floor. If your shoes are wet, the laminate is way too slick. But overall it is very nice work surface.
Lou, just a thought, but if you turn, I would keep the floor concrete. If not, I'd put firring (sp?) strips down, add 3/4" plywood, go to Lumberliquidators, and get some cheap wood (I found rustic hickory, unfiinished) for $1 a square foot. Sand it even. Put ONE coat of finish on it. Great floor!
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