Breaking Ground on new shop.

[Don Jarvie]

Cameron, I just put a floor in my 20x20 shop and floated the floor because I was afraid if I fastend it into the slab it would be my luck it would leak.

I put 2 rows of 2x4s down the middle and put 1 row of 2x4s on each wall. These got north-south. The added 2x4s across (east-west) every 24 inches. I used hard foam insultation between the 2x4s since I'm trying to keep the cold out. On top I put 3/4 OSB T&G.

I just toe nailed the 2x4s into the sill plate around the perimiter. If I ever move I can just unscrew everything.

One thing I should have done was used 3/4 1 sided sanded plywood instead of OSB. It would have looked nicer. I painted the floor but I have pulled up flakes here and there. Its a shop so I really don't care.

Don

[Cameron Handyside]

Don, thanks for the description. Do you have any pictures of the process? Did you put down a moisture barrier betwen the slab and 2x4s. Did you lay the 2x4s flat or on edge? I'm leaning towards flat since that will lower the edge around the garage door. We framed up the pedestrian door with the floor in mind so that should be no problem. But that means only 1-1/2" of insulation; but I'm in Alabama and our winters are mild compared to other parts of the country.

I agree about fastening to the slab. I just can't bring myself to drill into it or even glue the 2x4s to it. I plan to lay out the grid so I can pull up the floor in the single bay if I ever want to pull a car in there but actually leave the wood floor in the other 1/2.

My builder can get me a deal on 3/4 T&G A/C Plywood and that is what I'll use. I think the OSB is fine but was in a lodge over Xmas that had a ply floor with a dark stain and it looked rustic. I plan to use ply on the walls and ceiling too.

[Cameron Handyside]

This week, we finished rough electrical, roofing and insulation. We need to install doors and get a framing inspection and will be ready for brick. Here is a shot of the shop looking at the mechanical room.

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[Don Jarvie]

I laid the 2x4s flat. I put the 2x4s down flat, cut the insulation to fit in each opening, put the plastic moisture barrier in top and put the plywood on top of that.

I used 3/4 inch foam insultation which will keep the cold for coming into the shop from the slab. I also ran lines under the floor for power to the TS/Assembly table. I have a completely open shop with no poles, etc and didn't want lines hanging from the celing for me to hit.

I should have used the T&G plywood but the 10.00 a sheet difference x 15 sheets (150.00) made the OSB better for the budget.

Just screw it into the sill plate all around and its not going anywhere. I didn't take any pictures but can answer any questions.

Shop looks great.

[Cameron Handyside]

Shop progressing slowly. Finally got a framing inspection today. We did cut and install the pedestrian door in the existing garage. Once complete, I should be able to walk from the house to my shop w/o getting rained on.

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[Don Jarvie]

3/8 sheetrock may be a better choice for the ceiling from a cost perspective. I was going to use 1/4 lunan but it was 13 bucks a sheet compared to 6 a sheet for the rock. The 105 bucks I saved went toward something else.

If you use a cleat on one end when you hang it you can do it by yourself. Looks great so far.

Just looking at your original post, consider something other than white for the walls, maybe a light tan or off white. I used a light off white and my shop seems kind of sterile. I may repaint it this summer with a light tan.

[Cameron Handyside]

I agree that sheetrock could save some money but I have an aversion to it in a garage or shop. Our current garage just looks so bad w/ sheetrock. I also like the ability to hang something anywhere w/o hunting a stud. We actually got the 3/8 AC ply through my builder and it wasn't cheap but cheaper than retail.

I agree about the color. I was thinking of a flat white or maybe antique white. I'll try a few samples once I get the walls up. Our AC ply is SYP so it has a nice grain on the smooth side. For the floor, I might try a durable floor stain instead of porch paint.

BTW, did you use pressure treated 2x4s on your floor?

[Don Jarvie]

I did use PT for the floor because I have gotten some dampness on the floor in the past. Nothing since I insulated it last year.

I only used sheet rock on the ceiling. The walls got plywood.

[Jerome Hanby]

I am looking to buy a house that has a pole barn and will need to get my retirement shop up and running.

Funny you say that. My wife is on a mission to get us out of town and out to the woods. I'm figuring once we find a piece of land, first construction project will be a huge pole barn that I can build an apartment into and use the rest as shop area and staging area for building the house.

[Russ D Wood]

"My wife is on a mission to get us out of town and out to the woods." We moved from the San Francisco area to very rural southern Oregon. We have NEVER looked back, we love it! I love my pole barn shop too! Russ

[Cameron Handyside]

Don, what thickness ply did you use on the walls? I had decided on 1/2" but we have 3/8 on the ceiling and it appears strong enough? There is not much of a price difference but just wondering.

Been very rainy here in northern Alabama but still making some progress on the shop. We managed to get the interior ceiling up. We went w/ the 3/8 AC ply. I know there are multiple choices but ultimately I like the durability and the freedom to drive a screw anywhere and it hold.

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[Don Jarvie]

Cam, I used 1/2 on the walls and used deck screws to screw it up.

[Bruce Kohl]

Looks like a really nice shop space. I love the elevations. Is that a boat you have in the sketches? If so and you're planning on building small boats or canoes I'd think about making the space a bit larger. 24' X 24' will get mighty cramped once you start adding some tools and a water craft in progress. My shop was built two years ago and it is 24' X 32', and I now find it's way too small. My wife told me to make it bigger but I didn't listen - too cheap I guess. I also regret not adding a conservatory.

Make sure you have plenty of electrical circuits - both for present and future use - and good lighting. I have skylights in mine but that may be a problem with your roof design. I also like the separate space for the compressor and DC. I didn't do that and I'm thinking of adding it to mine.

Good luck with it, and do post pictures. We do like pictures.

[Cameron Handyside]

Here are a few pictures working inside. I'm trying to get the ply on the ceiling and walls so I can paint before the electrician finishes up the lights and electrical. It's been rainy and cold here so the brick are on hold. We should get some decent weather soon though.

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I managed to install the lower course by myself but have some buddies coming over this weekend to help based on the promise of beer and pizza:-)

As far as the size, 24x24 was really what our lot and architecture would handle. It is connected to the house by a pergola structure and anything larger would have been out of balance. I took a great deal of time in Sketch Up to make sure I could be comfortable in this space. Besides, I always tell myself I've done everything to-date in 1/2 a garage w/ only one 15amp circuit...

[Cameron Handyside]

Continued work installing 1/2" plywood on the shop interior walls. I am very happ with how this is turning out. I have 10' ceilings so I'm running 2 full length sheets top/bottom then a 2' strip in the middle where all the outlets/switches live. All attached w/ sheetrock screws so I hope to be able to easily remove panels if needed. I plan to paint the ceiling and walls an off-white very soon. My electrician is getting antsy to install the light fixtures. Thanks for looking.

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