[OP]
Member
Hello,
I have a Jet ProShop 10 saw. It's OK for the most part, except when ripping thick stock like 8/4 hard maple with full kerf sawblade. I have managed to get the motor stalled a couple of times. So, I've been wondering, is there a reason why I shouldn't put a higher horsepower motor on it, such as a Leeson 3HP table saw motor?
Thanks,
George
Contributor
My first guess is that the trunnion was not designed to hold the weight of a 3 hp motor.Originally Posted by George Gyulatyan
Member
Get a decent low tooth count rip blade and you should be fine.
Member
The weight difference between a 1.5 and a 3hp motor in the same NEMA frame is negligible, expecially given that a 3hp motor requires 240V and doesn't need as many windings as a dual voltage motor.
Contributor
Bearing sizing? Sometimes the drive train is sized for a certain hp ratingBut my guess on this type of a product is they go one design fits all for the drivetrain and bearings, and then just use different size motors. Not sure thoughA good Thin curf blade can make a big differenceI would choose to use the upgrade money in a different way, but that's just me
Member
George, You will probably damage your contractor's saw by installing a heavier motor on it. Aside from the extra torque which could break or bend something, the motor mounting trunnion will probably twist when you need to tilt the motor for a bevel cut. That means inaccurate, burned cuts.
As an alternative, you might be surprised at how cheaply used cabinet saws are going for these days.
Member
I'm sure you can find a 3hp motor that will weigh around the same as what you have and could be wired for 110. The downside is it will be expensive at least 300 plus even on the bay. Save you money and start looking for a used cab saw.
Don
Contributor
That's weird. My 3hp Unisaw motor was way heavier then my 1.5hp contractor saw motor. The Unisaw motor doesn't really have a frame, just a couple
of tabs.
Contributor
Both the Delta contractor's saw and the Uni use the same bearings on their arbors- 6203 RS. This item has been beat to death over the years.
Member
They aren't the same NEMA type, either. While weights can vary some, they are usually almost the same for the same motor family from a given manufacturer. Duty cycle, number of poles, whether the motor is ODP or TEFC, and other things make the weight vary. More modern motor designs are usually lighter than older ones, and are also more efficient. Most of the weight is in the rotor and the case.
I've got a 5 hp single phase WEG TEFC motor that is far lighter than a 10 year older 2hp single phase motor.
Last edited by Josiah Bartlett; 10-19-2011 at 8:50 PM.
[OP]
Member
Thanks all for the great advice. I had similar concenrs regarding the trunnions and what the increased torque might do, although 220V is not an issue.
I was thinking I might get some Tim Allen references there for my goofy idea, but instead got some sound advice. Plus, the prices for these are around $400-$600. So as someone pointed out, money can be spent in better ways.
I just got the 20T WWII blade, just for that reason, so I'm going to give that a try.
Thank you all,
George
Last edited by George Gyulatyan; 10-19-2011 at 8:55 PM.
Member
No, I don't think its a goofy idea, people do it all the time. Question is, is the saw worth it. Good motors are expensive. The Leeson 3 hp, 230V motor weighs 54 lbs. The Leeson 1.5 HP motor is 45 lbs.
So far as I know most saw mfgrs. use the same saw frame for all motor sizes so there should be no problem there. Check with Jet and see if they don't offer the same saw with 1, 1.5, and 3 hp motors. But, if your saw has aluminum instead of cast iron trunions, forget about it.
Last edited by Harvey Pascoe; 10-20-2011 at 6:12 AM.
Member
It'd sure be a lot easier and cheaper to put a good 3/32" thin kerf 24T FTG blade on it. It's recommended for saws with motors of less than 3hp. Double check the alignment too. I had a similar Craftsman 22124 that would cut to full blade height with a good 24T TK blade.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
Member
Let us know how that works out. I have my doubts that 1/32" is going to reduce your load all that much. In theory, it would be 25% but I don't detect a lot of difference with mine. If your blades are loaded up with resin on the tooth sides, that will cause huge amounts of friction so with a brand new blade you will note quite a difference at first until it loads up.
Member
You'll be quite pleased with the added performance of the large gullets and less teeth. I was using a 30 tooth thin glue blade to rip 4/4 oak (which is the max for that blade) with a unifeeder. That was a disaster, the feed rate was way to high. Feeding the stock by hand was slow @ best. Switched to a WWII, the saws performance is greatly increased although highly figured woods require a bit more of a grunt. The hp rating on my saw is 1 1/2 and its still under powered but workable.
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