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Thread: Upgrading table saw motor. Goofy idea?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Courtenay BC Canada
    Posts
    2,750
    I am another fan of a better blade..

    I use a 24 Tooth Tenryu industrial blade that cuts effortlessly.. I am a believer that blade is more important than HP with a Cabinet saw.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    NW Missouri, USA
    Posts
    135
    Reducing the blade diameter from 10" to 8" will increase the force applied to the teeth by 20% without adding any additional load to your saw.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    League City, Texas
    Posts
    1,643
    Why not just go with a thin kerf ripping blade? I have no problems ripping 8/4 maple, walnut, pecan, or mesquite on my 1.5HP Ryobi... You saying your Jet isn't up to that job? Something isn't right with that statement...
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Granada Hills, CA
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by David Hostetler View Post
    Why not just go with a thin kerf ripping blade? I have no problems ripping 8/4 maple, walnut, pecan, or mesquite on my 1.5HP Ryobi... You saying your Jet isn't up to that job? Something isn't right with that statement...
    It is With the right blade Which was the point of the above comparison as requested by some in this thread.

    WWII ripped just fine as shown above, and it is a full kerf blade.

    And as Scott correctly pointed out above, the Freud GLR blades aren't designed for 8/4 material anyway, so I was pushing it beyond what it was designed for.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Trussville, AL
    Posts
    3,589
    [QUOTE=George Gyulatyan;1803603And as Scott correctly pointed out above, the Freud GLR blades aren't designed for 8/4 material anyway, so I was pushing it beyond what it was designed for.[/QUOTE]

    Well I've managed to buy and use that blade without ever noticing anything about 8/4 being outside its design specs. Guess I've just been lucky and never had it mounted when I ripped 8/4 (rarely). Which Freud would be suitable for ripping that thickness?

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Sweetser,In
    Posts
    326
    I had a RAS that would stall on heavy cuts. It was wired 110v. I changed it to 220V and solved the problem.
    I use a 1/8" blade on my 110v 1.5hp Delta contractor saw and unless I really hurry the cut it works OK.
    I have to let it pick its way through hard stuff but no burns and it does not stall.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Granada Hills, CA
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerome Hanby View Post
    Well I've managed to buy and use that blade without ever noticing anything about 8/4 being outside its design specs. Guess I've just been lucky and never had it mounted when I ripped 8/4 (rarely). Which Freud would be suitable for ripping that thickness?
    Jerome, per Freud's website for the LM74M/R blade, the "ideal working range is from 1/8" to 1" thick". http://www.freudtools.com/p-34-glue-...ngbr-nbsp.aspx

    The Heavy Duty Rip 24T blade (LM72M/R) states "ideal working range is from 3/4" to 2-3/4" thick". http://www.freudtools.com/p-35-heavy...ipbr-nbsp.aspx

    I haven't had issues going through 8/4 mahogany with the Freud GLR, but maple has definitely been a challenge.

    HTH.

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