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Thread: Overhead dust collection & Grizzly G0623X for better DC

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Helensburgh, Australia
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    2,700
    To me that means the guard cannot supply make up air and as soon as it can't do that then it stops working as it should. I recall someone saying that a ZCI was pulled out of its seat by the vacuum, again not good as it also means that the air is not flowing as it should. If air stops flowing then the efficiency of the dust collection falls away.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Northern New Jersey
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    I think that a 4" duct for the overhead hood is best. 3" is getting a little small. Most of our dust collectors like to gobble air at low pressure unlike a shop vacuum which is the opposite hence the small hose they use.

    My overarm hood is homemade with a full 4" duct right to the hood. This addition to my tablesaw was absolutely required since I have an old Delta Unisaw that has awful dust collection via the cabinet.

    Looking at the pic below, I added a mustache to the front of my hood which is made from a Frost King door sweep. I probably should have put it around the entire bottom of the hood.

    Whatever brand you go with, I recommend that it be easily removable. Preferably without having to lift it to remove it. There are simply too many operations in my home shop that requires the hood to be removed.

    But, when cutting sheet goods like MDF, overhead dust extraction is the cat's meow.

    Jeff
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    Thank goodness for SMC and wood dough.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,247
    Hi Matt, I had a General 650 with an Excalibur overarm guard, which worked great.

    I uses a piece of polturethane flex hose, which is extremely flexible, to connect the guard to the branch line on the ceiling.

    Congratulations on the new saw,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Regards, Rod.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Congratulations on the new saw,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Regards, Rod.
    When it comes and there are photographs to prove it...

    I did seriously consider the Hammer, but for the same cost of the K3Winner, I got both the G0623X saw and G0454Z planer. I guess time will tell if the unit lasts without problems.

  5. #20

    G0623X Dust Control Modification

    Hi David:

    I realize this is an older post. I am currently looking at getting the G0623X - love the features, but really disappointed with the internal dust control and small 3" hose diameter. I will also have a 4" port Sharkguard. If possible, I will remove the 3" internal hose, and modify the cabinet and install a 5" hose with a new dust hood (remove/replace the installed dust shroud)that captures the main blade and scoring blade. My question to you is does it look like there is enough room inside the cabinet to do these modifications? Apologies if this is covered somewhere else, I am new to this forum. Thank you.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Hi Matt. I think one basic difficulty with table saw dust collection is that the dust is initially captured in the blade gullets, only to be carried around through the lower chute and up and over the top of the table - spewing out at speed all the way around. I'm not sure it's possible to get anywhere near to clearing the blade completely before it gets above the table - so that no matter what the top guard is critical. Not only that it needs to come as far forward and low down as is practical - so that dust isn't thrown forward at you.

    I'm running a DIY built Clear Vue like dust system from Bill P's drawings which works very well. My saw is a Hammer K3 with the hose to the lower chute upgraded to 125mm, but (unfortunately) reduced to 4in flexible in the last few inches (using a cut down short steel concentric taper reducer from a ducting place) to get connected to the stock stub at the bottom of the chute - there's a job on the list for a long time to make a transition and weld a 5in stub to the chute, although it'll need checking first as space is pretty tight when the blade is at 45 deg and the hose has also to bend pretty sharply. One limit to upping the flow underneath is that as Chris said you can only pull a small amount of air down through the blade slot, so there has to be means for air to get into the chute from the cabinet.

    Short of somehow arranging for very high air velocities in the lower chute increasing the flow is of limited value anyway since quite a lot of the dust as above will probably inevitably be carried above the table in the blade gullets. We've discussed installing a side mounted inlet to the chute positioned to pull through the blade teeth to clear them before, but it needs testing - it might of course behave like an air raid siren which wouldn't be so good.

    I have the stock Felder riving knife mounted Euro top guard, with a DIY large bore transition in sheet metal to a 4in flex hose mounted on it. It works very well, the biggest issue is that the large diameter transition and hose can catch clamps in the sliding table T slots or stuff sticking up in the line of the fence (e.g on rips close to the fence - a DIY low level fence from aluminium angle has helped in that regard) on certain cuts. It sucks up quite chunky offcuts too… It's probably not going to deal so well with open sided 45 deg cuts and the like, and there are (rare) situations that force complete removal of the guard which isn't the best. I'm not sure how much a much wider guard (a la Shark) buys, and it would probably result in worsened clearance/interference issues.

    I suspect (it's also on the project list) that as the guys an overhead/ceiling mounted top guard of the sort used on the high end Felder and other saws (with rollers that permit it to be placed right down on the work so that there is high speed air flow through the resulting relatively narrow gap around its perimeter) is probably the ultimate, especially if the mounting arrangement allows flexibility of positioning (side to side tilting, easy height adjustment, lateral movement), and the guard has the demountable side panel that permits it to replaced with a flared/wide one when needed for angled cuts and the like.

    My one caution in this regard is that it pays to run a 4in hose to get plenty of airflow through the top guard (to help pull in dust that escapes, and to generate a good high inward velocity through the gaps around it to maximise containment), and for the mounting to permit highly adjustable positioning and orientation. It's seems likely that some of the aftermarket cantilever/overhead guard mounting systems are less than ideal in these regards.
    Last edited by ian maybury; 07-23-2015 at 10:19 AM.

  7. #22
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    PS Oops. Just noticed that this was an old thread, and that i missed that there was only a specific add on question that was new…. Pardon me

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