I wire like this where I will put a 4X4 box in and 2 duplex outlets one on one circuit and one on the other. That way if you shut down one to do something the other is still available to use near by.
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I wire like this where I will put a 4X4 box in and 2 duplex outlets one on one circuit and one on the other. That way if you shut down one to do something the other is still available to use near by.
Member
120v or 220v, cant make up your mind?
wire with 12/3 and put some of these outlets in
problem solved
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5842-I.../dp/B000U3BVMI
Carpe Lignum
Member
Make sure whatever holes you drill are centered in the 3 1/2" stud width. Drilling holes off center greatly weakens the stud. As long as you drill them in the center and leave a couple inches between holes, you can drill about a many of them as you want without weakening the stud.
To get a feel for the mechanics of how things work structurally, consider the design of the "bar joist" or look up the rules for cutting duct holes in truss-joists.
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NOT!!!Originally Posted by David Perich
truss joists are a whole different animal then solid dimension framimg...
just look here
http://www.apexhomeinspections.biz/a...guidelines.pdf
Carpe Lignum
Member
There is no maximum diameter for a hole listed in the NEC that can be drilled. The main factor to worry about is protecting the cables run through the hole from nails or screws. NEC 300.4(A)(1) says that the edge of the hole is no less than 1 1/4 “ from the nearest edge of the wood. If this distance cannot be attained, nail shields or some other protection should be used to protect the cable being run in the hole.
Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 03-09-2012 at 7:23 PM.
That's because NEC doesn't care about structural stability, only electrical safety.
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I just went through this.
If you use nailer plates you can use larger holes. Multiple wires through the same hole are ok. Multiple holes along the length are ok (yes, if you riddle it with holes you reduce structure but the 'skin' is part of the structure and there is relatively less concern over structural deficiency).
If you dont use nailer plates then the 1 1/4" rule works out to a 1" hole perfectly centered (they dont want you coming back and nailing into the wires). A lot of the electrical guys go with 3/4" holes centered, which gives room for more than one cable (depending on wire size)
Then the inspector may have some bug about it and make you add nail plates anyway..... which I just assume up front (because my town is heavily over-regulated stick up the arse types.....)
Contributor
Something is funky with that image (upside down perhaps)
When I go to the 220V connect I have the right prong (facing the outlet) as horizontal. This one would end up being the left prong as horizontal??
I only mention this because every time I buy a new connector I have to take one with me to get it right (and have ended up buying some of the wrong ones). So consider what connectors you want to use throughout your shop and go from there.
Member
Carl, that receptacle on Amazon is a true dual-voltage receptacle. (They can be installed either way, but I would install a receptacle with the ground plugs down, so it's "upside down" to me.)
Anyway, in the pic, the bottom half of the duplex receptacle is 120V and the top is 240V. The blades turned "flat" have to do with amperage. The bottom (120V) receptacle accepts 15A and 20A plugs. 120V/20A plugs (NEMA 5-20p) have the neutral blade turned 90º to the hot instead of being parallel to it (NEMA 5-15p, or 120V/15A).
The top receptacle accepts both NEMA 6-15p (240V/15A, or two inline hot blades) and NEMA 6-20p (240V/20A, or one blade up, and one "flat", but they're the opposite configuration from the 120V version--NEMA 5-15p).
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the whole point of 220v instead of 110 volt is to keep the amperage down so you can use smaller wire. if you look at the nameplate on a dual voltage 110/220 motor you will see that it draws twice as many amps on 110 setup as it does on 220 setup so for example lets use your dust collector say it draws 18 amps on 110 but only 9 amps on 220 , youneed to size the wire based on the amps (current) , if you have it wired for 110v therefore the 18 amps you need #10 wire if you wire it for 220v #12 wire is plenty and if you wanted to use #14 you could and it would be fine as long as the run was not real long (#14 is good up to 15 amps #12 is good for up to 20 amps #10 up to 30amps) either way you will use exactly the same amount of power (watts). you will hear some people claim that a motor has more power running on 220v than on 110v which is not true as long as you have the correct size wire feeding it, what happens though in a lot of cases is that the wire size is too small for the amperage on the 110v configuration which results in running your equipment on reduced amperage therefore you effectively do have less power ,but not because of the voltage. Power (watts) = volts x amps higher voltage , less amperage , smaller wire needed ; lower voltage , more amperage, larger wire needed
as for holes in studs , there must be 1 and 1/4" of wood left between the edge of stud and the edge of the hole if its less you must use a metal nailplate to protect the wire ; which means on a typical 2x4 stud ,if you don't want to mess with nailplates a, 1" hole is max if its exactly centered in the stud and thats why 3/4" holes are what is generally used ......... use 3/4" holes centered in the stud and keep them at least a foot from the ends of the stud you will be good to go
Contributor
Sounds like you used NEMA 5-20R (20 amp 125volt receptacles) instead of 6-20R (20 amp 250v) for your 240 volt circuits. If so, that's an accident waiting to happen and you should really replace them ASAP.
Last edited by John Lanciani; 03-10-2012 at 12:18 PM.
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IBC states that the maximum diameter of a hole can not exceed 40 per cent of the width of any stud and it should not be nearer than 5/8" to the edge of a stud. Bored holes should not be in the same section of a stud as a notch or cut but I do not believe they specifically mention the proximity to other holes.Brian LoranCan I drill more than one hole in a wall stud to run electrical wire through? Also, is there a max diameter hole I can drill? I am adding some wiring in my garage/shop and this is an out side facing wall if that matters.
I am not an electrician but, as I understand it, if you used 12/3 and therefore had a common neutral, a two pole circuit breaker is required to prevent what you have described.Jerome StanekI wire like this where I will put a 4X4 box in and 2 duplex outlets one on one circuit and one on the other. That way if you shut down one to do something the other is still available to use near by.
Contributor
Thanks John,
I definitely used the 20 amp 250V receptacle, so no worries there. Thanks for flagging though. (I think its just how I was looking at the picture.....)
Contributor
Thanks Jason!
Member
according to the NEC 2011 edition (which is the current edition) the disconnecting means (in this case the circuit breaker) must disconnect all current carrying conductors simultaneously , in the scenario described above that would indeed require either a double pole breaker or 2 singles tied together , that is to prevent injury to the unsuspecting ; if you want 2 circuits run 2 wires the next guy who does anything with your wiring will appreciate it
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