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Thread: best way to remove a tool from the handle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
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    834

    best way to remove a tool from the handle

    I bought the set of versa chisels from benjamin's best, and I like them (like REALLY shallow fluted gouges) but the handles are pitifully short. So one of my first projects as a newbie will be to make new handles. I've watched videos, read tutorials, and I'm ready to go- but I wanted to double check how you guys remove the tool. I'm guessing they may have some glue holding them in, I don't see any shims. I'm guessing pry off the ferrule, wrap the HSS to protect it, and then grip it with a vise or pliers and pull for all I'm worth? Is there a more efficient way?
    Where did I put that?

  2. #2
    Getting the handles off isn't going to be all that difficult. Clamp the steel in a bench vise (protectwith the steelI buy wrapping it withand something) and start tapping the top of the ferrule going all the way around. The steel isn't likely more than 2" into the handle and will come out after a bit.
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    No, it's not thin enough yet.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Carterville, Illinois
    Posts
    390
    +1 on what Scott said., I usually put a rod or block of wood against the ferrell end of the handle to have a bigger target to hit. Usually only takes a few solid hits to get it off.
    The hurrier I goes, the behinder I gets.

  4. #4
    If what Scott said doesn't work try heating the steel and then hit the ferrule end backwards.
    Comments and Constructive Criticism Welcome

    Haste in every craft or business brings failures. Herodotus,450 B.C.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    Makes sense. Thanks. I just ordered a 60 degree tapered tail stock as well, seems like people use that to keep the handle centered after the hole is drilled. I can't wait to start.
    Where did I put that?

  6. #6
    I don't know why everyone wants to be messing with vices and hammers and steel drifts and such. Just stick the handle end in the wood stove and go get a cuppa or a beer. When you get back, the handle will be removed...
    David DeCristoforo

  7. #7
    David has a unique approach, i would prefer to turn it off..you are a turner, yes? :-)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    Quote Originally Posted by David DeCristoforo View Post
    I don't know why everyone wants to be messing with vices and hammers and steel drifts and such. Just stick the handle end in the wood stove and go get a cuppa or a beer. When you get back, the handle will be removed...
    I actually thought about throwing it in my big green egg... I was worried the heat would harm the blade. But I appreciate the thought.
    Where did I put that?

  9. #9
    I don't know about doing the fire thing, just because of of the possibility of loosing the heat treatment.
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    No, it's not thin enough yet.
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  10. #10
    I recently took the handle off a B.Best skew using a fork designed for automotive tie rods. I placed the blade in a vice with the handle about 1/2 inch from the vice and drove the fork in between the vice jaw and the handle. It popped the handle right off. If you have access to one of these wedge shaped forks it works well. Some of the b.Best tools loosen up on their own.

  11. #11
    just work too far over the tool rest and take a huge cut

  12. #12
    Assuming the handle/ferrule is bigger than a benchdog hole, you could try dropping the gouge through the doghole, let the handle/ferrule stop on the bench, and eventually the gouge will drop out of the handle(through the doghole)? Might want to put a bucket of shavings to catch the metal when it comes out the bottom. Never tried it, but seem like it should work better on longer gouges(more momentum)

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