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Thread: Shellac runs when brushed.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    New Lenox, Illinois
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    Shellac runs when brushed.

    I have bought several different brushes from the Big Box stores to brush shellac without getting runs at the corners of the project. I just want to toss these crappy brushes and start spraying it on. <breath> I'm over it now....


    My question; What is the best brush to use to apply shellac??? I tried to keep it from running by going from #2 to 3# cut. Thickening it up just left thicker ridges on the corners of the project.


    Off for a Single Malt... TIA, Ken
    Last edited by Ken Shoemaker; 11-16-2011 at 8:23 PM.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

  2. #2
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    Shellac is a thin finish. The brushes at the big box stores are "paint" brushes. Paint is very thick compared to shellac.

    A good varnish brush or a good shellac brush (both will be natual bristles) will not have the center void like a paintbrush. A quality brush will hold mineral spirits and not drip.

    See my American Woodworker Magazine video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tI4y...ature=youtu.be
    Last edited by Scott Holmes; 11-17-2011 at 10:23 AM.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
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    For brushed on the smaller end [1" or so] I've had some good success with brushes made with golden taklon bristles - haven't tried any large brushes. Got mine from http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/

    Doesn't hold all that much, but it flows well. To fight the fat edges, you might also consider trying the Shellac Wet they have. I haven't tried it, but I have used laquer retarder as an additive @ < 10%...that trick came from either Jewitt's or Flexner's book.


    Waiting to buy an autographed first edition copy of the Holmes book...........
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  4. #4
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    Mr Holmes,

    You are a friggin' Finishing God!!!!! This video should be mandatory viewing for everyone who puts a blade to wood!!!!

    BTW - Where you do buy such brushes????

    Scott, Thank you very much..... Ken
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

  5. #5
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    Homestead Finishing has the Gramercy and the Omega brushes. I like both of these brands. Omega makes one with curved edges which helps prevent ridges in fast drying finishes. I have not used Homestead's Taklon brush but I'll bet they are good brushes.
    http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...cs/Brushes.htm

    Rockler has the imitation badger hair. A good brush at a reasonably priced.
    http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...20hair%20brush

    Tools for woodworking has the full line of Gramercy brushes. These are my favorite brushes.
    http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...e=GT-SHEBRU.XX

    Take care of your brushes and they will last a lifetime.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  6. #6
    I've found inexpensive golden taklon brushes at a couple of hobby stores; Hobby Lobby and Michael's. My local stores also have the expensive brushes, but the cheaper taklon brushes that come in a set work fine for me.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Florida Panhandle
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    I use cheap throw away brushes by holding them closer to horizontal than vertical; that way the thin shellac does not flood off the brush. I've used expensive badger brushes and still had the problem of too much shellac flowing off. I think your preferences will depend a lot on the area size and complexity as to which brush is most suitable. I wouldn't try to use a TA brush on a large panel, nor would I use a badger on a jewelry box.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    (GTA) Greater Toronto Area
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    Scott, I enjoyed the video. That TV cabinet in the intro is the design I'm looking for..

    I've been working on shellac brushing myself and was using big box store brushes with runs and heavy lines.
    Stepped up to the Japanese varnish brush for Lee Valley and the results are much better. now have 2 of them

    Joel

  9. #9
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    Mar 2005
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    New Lenox, Illinois
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    I just got a cheap spray gun as SWMBO and I are buying a rental property. I plan on building the cabinets, trim, and possibly the interior doors for the house. I'll try it with shellac, but in the short term, I'll be getting a number of quality brushes at your recomendations.


    Thanks for your help on this.... Ken
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

  10. #10
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    Spraying shellac is the quickest fix.

    As for rental properties... We have several.

    I would build the cabinets for my house, but not for a rental... You will not believe what tenants can/will do to them. We just got one back after 2 years; I had to replace 3 door panels, color match the builders color, etc... Never had to replace a door panel at my house. We had 4 boys in high school at once!

    Buy the cabinets at big box store.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  11. #11
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    New Lenox, Illinois
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    Scott,
    Good input.

    Right now I am out of work so I have alot of time on my hands. I thought I could save a bit of money by building them myself. Money is short, but time is long. Although, I will check the big box and see what I would save. It may not be worth it if I only save a few bucks.
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

  12. #12
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    Location
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    Buy 'em unfinished and finish them yourself; will be the quickest way to save money. Remember that an extra month of work building/finishing and installing the cabinets means a lost month of rent.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

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