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Thread: Triton router vibration

  1. #1

    Triton router vibration

    So I picked up a 2-1/4 Triton off Ebay. The auction said barely used and it doesn't really show any signs of too much wear. However it seems to have a lot of vibration. When I have it mounted in my table it is almost unbearable. If you touch the top of the table it almost hurts from the vibration. I have tried both the 1/4" and 1/2" collet with bits. Both seem to have the same problem. Measuring the run-out of a 1/2" straight bit it was off by about .004". If I take the collet out and measure the run out ait is about .003. Did the former owner wear out the bearings or are they shot?

    I talked to the seller on Ebay and he has offered to work something out. Maybe I should go with the 3-1/4 HP Woodcraft has on sale.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    884
    Did you make sure to lock the plunge mechanism before you cut? I noticed pretty quickly that the router has a lot of play if you don't lock the router in place (black plastic lever).

    I've basically concluded that although it's really nice how the triton has the built in lift mechanism, it's really not a good router for the table.

    1. The on/off door that blocks the switch drives me nuts. You either have to dismantle the router and take it out, or you have to reach under the table to turn it on... meaning you can't use your own switch mounted on your router table or cabinet.

    2. If you do remove the "trap door" over the switch, then you run the risk of accidentally raising the router too high and starting it while the collet is locked... this could destroy the router. I would prefer for the collect locking mechanism be designed so that it is manually locked by the operator when it's needed, from above the table, and for the router to use an electronic circuit to prevent the router from starting while the collet is locked. The little trap door idea is novel, but it really makes table use a pain.

    3. To utilize the above-table height adjustment, you need to orient the router in such a way that the hole you drill through the table to access the lift mechanism has to be on the operator's side of the table. Otherwise, if you need to tweak your bit height and you have the fence dialed in and close to the bit, you'll have to move the fence out of the way to get the lift crank in. I learned this lesson the hard way. This ordinarily wouldn't be a problem, but in order to put this access hole on the operator side of the table, you have to orient the router in such a way that the on/off switch (which you have to use; see items 1 and 2 above) is facing away from you. That also means that the plunge lock (which you also have to use due to the play in the plunge mechanism) is on the back side as well. So I find that I'm constantly sticking my head under the table trying to find what I need.

    4. The fact I have to lock the plunge mechanism down really irritates me. Sometimes I forget to do it and I get chattering. I wish that you could just set the height and turn the thing on rather than having to set the height, reach under to the back of the router and lock the plunge mechanism, and reach back to the other side to slide the trap door out of the way of the switch and turn it on.

    5. The worm gear that operates the lift mechanism is made of plastic. If you crank it a little too fast and you reach the limit of the travel, you can pretty easily strip it completely. Others have complained of this. I've gotten close accidentally a few times.

    That said, it's a good router for hand-held use. The plunge mechanism is very intuitive. They claim the router has a "soft start", but compared to my porter cable 690, it's not soft at all. While using it hand held, you have to be careful when you start it because the torque makes it want to fly out of your hands.

    Anyway, sorry for the soap-boxing. All this goes to say that if you aren't happy with the router based on what seems to be a defect or due to wear and tear, then you may be dodging a bullet. I'd return it and get a different brand. I believe freud makes a router with a built in lift also.
    Last edited by Peter Aeschliman; 11-21-2011 at 12:56 AM. Reason: typos

  3. #3
    What is kinda of funny is I wasn't locking the plunge down to start. When I down lock it down it vibrates more. It actually has less vibration when it is not locked down.

  4. #4
    Preload on bearings may be absent or screwed up. Some spinning component is out of balance. Run smoothly with no collet? I doubt it. Do not use until problem resolved. Vibration is your enemy and could ruin the work or you.

  5. #5
    Other than Peter's statement about play I have not heard about problems with this router. Dad runs a couple of them and they are just fine. I would consider this to be an anomaly based on many positive reports of this model over the years. Its not the maker or the model per se; its just a machine and machines can break. Personal opinion; the seller is a poor excuse for a human. As Pat says; do not run that router anymore till you fix the problem. Something blowing apart at 20,000 RPM is noting to fool with.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” -- George Orwell


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    47
    I have the 3 1/4 in a table it it works fine. Did you remove the plunge spring? When in a table, it's supposed to be out.

    Also, does it vary with speed setting?

  7. I only ran the router to create a quick video. I didn't have the spring removed, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. One take in the video I didn't have it locked down and that was probably the test with the least vibration other then no collet. Pat it does have less vibrations with no collect, but there is still some. See what you guys think. I am not knocking Triton.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QX0qmF4I46s

  8. #8
    Sounds like you got a bad router. I've had the 2-1/4 Triton in my Incra router table for 3 years. I use it all the time, no vibration, regardless of whether the plunge lock is engaged or not. I'd send it back and get a new one that's under warranty.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    47
    Youtube said the video was private...

    I agree with Michael - it's probably a bad unit.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hood Canal, Washington
    Posts
    1,020
    I talked to the seller on Ebay and he has offered to work something out.
    I'd send it back for a refund ASAP. Buying used is always a gamble, especially with small power tools. It's great that the seller is willing to work with you. I'd jump on his offer before any more time passes. Then you can decide if you still want that specific router again.

  11. #11
    I picked up the Triton 3-1/4 from Woodcraft and it arrived yesterday. I had to pick up longer machines screws to mount it in the table and redrill the lift handle hole because the two models have different locations. Once I got it all setup. Runs very smooth. I am very pleased with it so far. It is like night and day when comparing it to the other router. Thanks for the help guys.

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