Just inherited my first bandsaw, how do I tune it up?

[Dustin Keys]

Years ago, my dad was given a bandsaw by a woodworking friend who had upgraded to a larger model. We used the saw occasionally, but it sat basically neglected in the shop for years. When my dad moved to a house with much less shop space, he gave the saw to a family friend. The saw has not been used since it was placed in that friend's shop. When he found out that I had taken up woodworking, he offered to let me have the saw. It will be coming to my house in a few weeks.

I remembered enough about the saw to do a little searching around for information, and I'm fairly certain it's a Rockwell 28-100. It's a 10" saw, and I do not remember the motor size (I suspect it's 1/3-3/4 HP as that's what is on the few I've found info about online). As I remember, the saw motor ran very well and the saw vibrated very little (almost none) the last time I used it some years ago. The blade wriggled quite a bit as I remember though. There is an extra blade with the saw that is still unused as far as I know.

What do I need to do with this saw once I receive it to make sure it's in proper working order? I am assuming that there are a number of things which need to be repaired, cleaned, tuned up, replaced, etc, before it's ready to use, but I don't know where to start. Also, what are the safe limitations of the saw? I know it's a small saw compared to what many here use, so I don't want to attempt something unsafe I've seen someone here with a larger saw do.

Thanks for your help,
D

[Myk Rian]

Put the other blade on it, and that should fix the wiggle.
After that, either take it apart for restoration, or use it as is.

[glenn bradley]

I have the Rockwell/Delta PM-1886 which is very similar if not identical. Mine is circa 1970 and I have the manual for it if that will help you. I have seen this tool in yellow and black (?) although mine is Delta gray. I have manged to trick mine into some pretty admirable performance but, remember the saw's target market and don't kill it. This is a die-cast framed hobby saw with fiberglass wheels and a fiberglass enclosure. The guide adjustments are pretty limited but, they can be worked with. The table quality exceeds many modern "professional" machines you find out there. It is hard to claim any real precision from a machine that can be tweaked 1/4" one way or the other by just leaning on the frame so, let's be fair.

All disparaging remarks aside, I have enjoyed this as my smaller bandsaw for quite sometime and it is quite usable. I thought I would pick up a 10" Rikon or something like that on sale someday but, this little guy can hold his own. I just cut some G&G cloud lifts out of 1" walnut on it last night. Its also great for template work. As to tuning, the usual alignment still applies. Mark Duginski's book is a great reference but there are lots of free online sources for bandsaw setup info as well.

[Dustin Keys]

I have the Rockwell/Delta PM-1886 which is very similar if not identical. Mine is circa 1970 and I have the manual for it if that will help you. I have seen this tool in yellow and black (?) although mine is Delta gray. I have manged to trick mine into some pretty admirable performance but, remember the saw's target market and don't kill it. This is a die-cast framed hobby saw with fiberglass wheels and a fiberglass enclosure. The guide adjustments are pretty limited but, they can be worked with. The table quality exceeds many modern "professional" machines you find out there. It is hard to claim any real precision from a machine that can be tweaked 1/4" one way or the other by just leaning on the frame so, let's be fair.

All disparaging remarks aside, I have enjoyed this as my smaller bandsaw for quite sometime and it is quite usable. I thought I would pick up a 10" Rikon or something like that on sale someday but, this little guy can hold his own. I just cut some G&G cloud lifts out of 1" walnut on it last night. As to tuning, the usual alignment still applies. Mark Duginski's book is a great reference but there are lots of free online sources for bandsaw setup info as well.

Thanks, this is really helpful! That PDF is exactly what I needed to get started checking it over. I just didn't know where to start...

D

[Jim Matthews]

That article is comprehensive.

My two cents - buy new urethane tires from Sulphur Grove tools.
Discard the current blades - a replacement will be sharp and should not cost much.

(3/4 of my setup problems were from dull blades. I bought some from Iturra design, and everything runs straight, now.)

[scott weston]

I second the new urethane tires. Having a bandsaw sitting around for years, especially if under tension, will lead to flatened tires. This will cause every blade you put on to wobble. At least it did in the free 12" sears I received from my father who had not used it in 5 or more years. Putting on new urethane tires and new guide blocks, trued up the wheels (adjusted the camber on the top wheel) so the blade doesn't walk on me and I am in business. Cuts like a dream and no blade drift any more.

[Van Huskey]

New tires and new quality blade, without them you may just be frustrated, though you may be OK with the unused blade. I would be willing to bet the blades are non-hardened spring steel, sold primarily for "hobby" saws, they are OK for the few minutes they are sharp. As mentioned get Duginski's book OR if you are a more visual person get his DVD but I think his book is a must for every shop library. Mark's book goes through the "rehab" procedures pretty well.

[Dustin Keys]

New tires and new quality blade, without them you may just be frustrated, though you may be OK with the unused blade. I would be willing to bet the blades are non-hardened spring steel, sold primarily for "hobby" saws, they are OK for the few minutes they are sharp. As mentioned get Duginski's book OR if you are a more visual person get his DVD but I think his book is a must for every shop library. Mark's book goes through the "rehab" procedures pretty well.

The saw made it to my house late last week. There's a fair amount of rust removal to be done, so I'm considering electrolysis (which would be a new venture for me, but as of right now I think it's the best way to tackle the job). The blades are rusted up pretty bad, and the "spare" has been previously used heavily with quite a few broken and heavily worn teeth. Neither of the blades seems sharp to me, so I definitely think it's best to replace them. I haven't had time to inspect the wheels, but I expect that the tires will be needed. I may try to pick that book up as well.

D

[Van Huskey]

Might be a good time to join vintagemachinery.org the best one stop shop for information on rehabilitating old iron.