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Thread: Is the PC 4212 Dovetail Jig the one to buy?

  1. #1

    Is the PC 4212 Dovetail Jig the one to buy?

    Although I want to do hand work as much as possible, I think a jig for the kitchen cabinet drawers I'm going to start on next spring is probably a smarter move. I haven't read up much on these things but see the high ratings for the 4212 on Amazon & the supposed low price right now. The usual cliche question from a beginner not taking the time to thoroughly research these things: is the 4212, for the price, a good way to go? Now you can commence throwing the rotten tomatoes.......

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Kelsey View Post
    Although I want to do hand work as much as possible, I think a jig for the kitchen cabinet drawers I'm going to start on next spring is probably a smarter move. I haven't read up much on these things but see the high ratings for the 4212 on Amazon & the supposed low price right now. The usual cliche question from a beginner not taking the time to thoroughly research these things: is the 4212, for the price, a good way to go? Now you can commence throwing the rotten tomatoes.......
    It works so I bought a pair. Its not perfect but if your doing alot of drawers its great. I also have a DR4 for other things but just keep the PC's along with a pair of 690's set up just for drawer boxes.

    Don

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
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    3,855
    I am still happy with mine. There is a supplemental manual online to do special dovetails. If you can't hind it, I think I have it saved womewhere.

  4. #4
    I'm happy with mine. They don't bounce well though. DAMHIKT

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    New Lenox, Illinois
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    709
    +1 for the 4212 and two PC690's. I just used mine today and was thinking how glad I got it instead of spending alot of money on something I'd have to replace later. Go for it, you wont be sorry.

    Ken
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Between No Where & No Place ,WA
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    If you know that you will only dovetail boxes, drawers, etc., 12" or less, the 4212 will suit.

    But if you stay with woodworking, sooner or later, you will want to dovetail a furniture frame, chest, larger box, etc., that will be in excess of 12". Then, the only choice will be do it by hand; or, buy a bigger jig.

    Think seriously about what you want to do -- now and in the future -- and possibly look at ways to buy a “previously owned” or new wider dovetail jig so as not to limit future projects or incur another expense.

  7. #7
    I have a couple of 4212's. Bought the second used as seller included several Whiteside bits with it. You can take the thru dovetail comb off and use it either like the Keller, or on the router table like the Katie.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    SE PA
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    498
    I've used mine a lot. The only thing I dislike about it is no dust collection attachment (and routing dovetails without one makes a heck of a mess). Anymore I only use it in the warmer months - either outside or as close to the open door as possible. Otherwise I do the joints with a drawer lock or lock miter bit on the router table.
    - Tom

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
    Posts
    3,855

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    SoCal
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    866
    FWIW, this time last year I was agonizing over which of the jigs to get knowing that the initial project was building blanket chests. I went with the Leigh D4R Pro and have been happy with both the jig and the decision.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Western NY
    Posts
    323
    I bought a Keller Dovetail jig and have never regretted it. I can make dovetail joints as long as I want or as short as I want. What I really like is that I don't have to worry about allignment of the dovetails in the boards. If I need a finished 4" board for a drawer, I use a 5" board and trim it to size on the table saw when done. Too much scrap you say? My scraps either become part of a cutting board or glued to other scraps for turning on my lathe so there is virtually no scrap left behind.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Middle Earth MD
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    682
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Esh View Post
    I've used mine a lot. The only thing I dislike about it is no dust collection attachment (and routing dovetails without one makes a heck of a mess). Anymore I only use it in the warmer months - either outside or as close to the open door as possible. Otherwise I do the joints with a drawer lock or lock miter bit on the router table.
    I put together a rig for dust collection on my 4216, keeps the router stable and picks up pretty much all of the dust.

    Adding brushes to the to the sides to "seal" the thing in closed position would help with even more collection.
    full assembly open.jpgfull assembly2.jpgfull assembly.jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Ewell View Post
    I put together a rig for dust collection on my 4216, keeps the router stable and picks up pretty much all of the dust.

    Adding brushes to the to the sides to "seal" the thing in closed position would help with even more collection.
    full assembly open.jpgfull assembly2.jpgfull assembly.jpg
    I have seen the Rockler dust hood adapted with success also.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    129
    +1 for the Keller. I use the 1601 and you can route two tailboards at a time when placed face to face . Its a nice, simple, fast system for through dovetails.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    New Lenox, Illinois
    Posts
    709
    Mr. Ewell,

    I got a "woodie" seeing your setup!!!! I literally stand in a shower of dust when using the jig. I am moving this to the front of the line of projects. Thanks for letting me see it.

    Ken
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

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