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Thread: Portable Lofted Barn for Workshop?????????????????

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
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    2,576

    Portable Lofted Barn for Workshop?????????????????

    Does anyone have any experience using a Lofted Barn portable building as a workshop? I am in the process of having to come up with a new workshop after moving, and the cost to build a new slab building may be prohibitive. I am gettign prices now for a 18' x 26' w/10' side walls with a 8' slab porch on 26' side. I saw a 12' x 24' Lofted Barn with 8' sidewalls that looked like it might make a fairly good shop for turning, but would limit the flat work if using plywood. These are the modifications that I would be looking to make to the standard unit:

    1. Add additional runner, have floor joist on 12" centers, and add second layer of floor (possibly 1" T&G plywood decking) to support Powermatic 3520 and other equipment with minimum deflection and stability.
    2. Add studs for 16" centers versus 24" standard for better hanging wall cabinets, tool racks, ect.
    3. Add standard walk door and more windows.
    4. Floor to loft joist clearance is about 7' 6" and 8' sections of florescent lights would need to be installed in joist space for lamp protection
    5. Interion height max without loft is 13' and would allow mounting my existing 2 HP Oneida Cyclone so that duct can run in loft area, and even have the outlet filter run horizontal (yes, I know that is not normal) in the loft area.
    6. Finish out with wall and ceiling insulation, smart panel walls, and gloss paint and plenty of electrical

    Can anyone talk me out of this idea or give me some additional tips?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Williamston, MI
    Posts
    464
    I don't think you will be happy with a 7'6" ceiling. Too low IMO.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Fredericksburg, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy Turbett View Post
    I don't think you will be happy with a 7'6" ceiling. Too low IMO.
    Roy - I tend to agree with you and that is why I am looking at a 10'ceiling if I go with slab and stick built rather than 8'. The recessed light fixtures would make it about equivalent to exposed light fixtures in a 8' garage. There is a significant difference in $$$ initital and then also tax rate on the building that has to be considered. I feel lucky to get any shop and keep my Powermatic and cost is a consideration and that is reason to be doing this exercise.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    12,183
    There is the way I do mine. I "time share" with a friend of mine. He has a LARGE pole barn, with a slab floor in about half of it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Southern Maryland
    Posts
    133
    This would be twice the real estate I work in. I think if you do the 10 ft walls that you will have a good small shop to work out of. I would double the joist and make sure you have a lot of blocking supporting the them. I would have it shipped with no plywood on the floor if possible this way you could access to block the joist. If they have to plywood the floor I would have them do only the 2 feet around the perimeter and ship loose the rest for me to install after the fact. I would want to block the centers and the joist to make it more solid. (unless it is on a slab) I would depending on if the joist were 2x4 or 2x6 want to do a lot of blocking. as for doubling the ply this does not really add to the lbs/SF load rating it is all about blocking the joist. This is where floor loads comes into place. But I would be very happy with a larger shop. What are your plans for power can you run electricity to it? Does the county allow this kind of thing? That would be an issue where I live. I would have to use a generator to skirt the issue.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, TX
    Posts
    2,576
    Rob - That is a good idea about not installing the floor until the unit is blocked. I have talked to a couple of different suppliers and both say that they can lift up and block. I think that blocking the inner runners would be a real problem by lifting and then setting back down on shims. They should provide some leveling jack screws that could be accessed from topside of the floor. I don't think that there is a problem with running an underground electrical service to a portable building, but will add that to my list of questions to check with the city. 10' sidewalls on a portable building are not an option, but there may be a way to have the ceiling/loft joists run at a higher level. The loft unit at Home Depot (not on my list of suppliers) today had the joists run about 6" above the wall header plates and blocked down to the header. A friend here in Tyler has a portable wood garage building 12'x20'x8' (7' 6" ceiling) that he is using and is happy, but like all of us would like more. He does not have a cyclone dust collector so the height issus is not as big a factor.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western Maine
    Posts
    69
    you are luck at not having frosts to worry about down there. The delivered building hieght is stronglt limited by road hight at 13'6" max minus trailer deck hieght...

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