Used in an oil/varnish blend spar varnish is fine. As a film forming top coat it's very soft compared to other varnishes. It will not hold up as well as a short oil interior varnish.
Used in an oil/varnish blend spar varnish is fine. As a film forming top coat it's very soft compared to other varnishes. It will not hold up as well as a short oil interior varnish.
Scott
Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.
That article was roundly criticized by most well respected finishing gurus. There were a number of basic errors. Minick is not a finishing expert.
While the varnish used to make an oil/varnish mixture is not very important, wipe-on varnish should start with a good varnish. When applied and the thinner evaporates its the varnish that ends up on the surface. Poly varnishes are not as clear and have other appearance negatives, so it's best to use a non-poly varnish if you want the best appearance. Pratt & Lambert 38, Cabot varnish, Sherwin Williams varnish, Behlen Rockhard and Waterlox Original are all excellent choices. Mixing up your own wiping varnish is easy--50% varnish and 50% mineral spirits or naphtha.
The key to using a wiping varnish is in the application process. You don't just substitute a rag for a brush. There is particular unique method to follow to get the best results. Go here: http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com...n-Varnish.aspx for an excellent write-up on the process.
Finally, store bought pre-mixed wiping contains mostly thinner and you will end up with a better product by mixing up your own.
Last edited by Howard Acheson; 12-11-2011 at 2:16 PM.
Howie.........