Yet Another Concrete coating question

[Jerome Hanby]

You know if the concrete is nice and level and you intend to be on your feet on it for long periods of time, maybe you could find some cheap but tough wood flooring to put down. Something with a pad under it could be a big help to your back and knees. Or maybe put down a grid of 2x4s and lay down plywood. that would add the cushion and give you channels to run power, air, maybe even dust collection...

[Thom Sturgill]

Completely true. He said "cost difference is not an issue", so i assumed (apparently wrongly) he didn't care much about cost

I was thinking of the cost/performance differences between floor paint, 1 part BORG epoxy, and BORG 2 part epoxy.

Sorry, if I misled you, but I did not realize how great the difference was. I have about $4k to do the floor, build storage shelves, insulate and sheath the inner walls up 8' and build workable cabinets along part of one wall. I also need to add a couple of man doors and partition off a spray room. That gets eat up pretty quick if I try to do an industrial grade floor covering by hiring pros to do the work.

[Pete Cyr]

I like this stuff - I put it down ona 1000 sqft concrete floor - 3 years later still stain resistant and easy to sweep the finest dust and shaving (25.00 a gal) 2 coats with a paint roller on a long handles, drys clear but not too glossy. No primer require, just need a clean dry floor to start

Lowes - QUIKRETE Gallon Wet-Look Clear Waterproofer Item #: 224226

[Phil Thien]

Most of the rustoleum stuff is really just a very low solids paint with ground up epoxy, as you suspect.

I was referring to my "one-part epoxy" product. Two part Rustoleum products are genuine epoxy products. Just not a high solids epoxy.

[William Payer]

I put the Rustoleum 2 part epoxy ( waterborne) on my shop floor 9 years ago and despite moving a 15inch planer, unisaw, and other machines, it has held up very well.
When new, the finish is very slippery when sawdust is added. Especially so if you are wearing running shoes. I did not use the "chips" since I wanted a surface I could more easily spot a small screw or part on. I would add chips next time, it adds traction and looks nicer.
I have the same coating on my double car garage. It is going on 15+ years and the only place I have had some peeling is where I previously had a transmission dump a 2x3 foot area of fluid on the bare cement and it was allowed to soak in for about an hour before it was cleaned up. Despite numerous scrubs with the supplied detergent, the area did not offer good adhesion. Surface prep is a huge priority in order for these coatings to adhere. I I were to apply over concrete that was exposed to oil products I would scarify the surface with a cement grinding wheel or disk, and power wash the dickens out of it before painting.

[Daniel Berlin]

I was thinking of the cost/performance differences between floor paint, 1 part BORG epoxy, and BORG 2 part epoxy.

Sorry, if I misled you, but I did not realize how great the difference was. I have about $4k to do the floor, build storage shelves, insulate and sheath the inner walls up 8' and build workable cabinets along part of one wall. I also need to add a couple of man doors and partition off a spray room. That gets eat up pretty quick if I try to do an industrial grade floor covering by hiring pros to do the work.

Fair enough. If you don't mind the look of concrete, i'm told one really cheap thing you can do is use concrete densifier and then polish it. This will turn it into a version of concrete floors you see in places like sams/homedepot. Smooth, hard, fairly resistant to staining, and easy to sweep.

[Thomas Canfield]

Thom,

I had Thompson Waterseal sprayed on my shop slab about 6 years ago and it has worked fairly well to prevent major stains and sweeps and vacuums pretty good. It definitely is the poor boy way to put something on the floor, but then was for a working shop. I am considering that for a new shop when I move shortly. The concrete has a machine polished surface and cured for about a month before the sealer was applied.

[Alan Schaffter]

The one big mistake I made was underestimating how slippery the finished product would be.

Don't underestimate this issue! The floor of my shop is just Advantech flake underlayment. I painted it with a urethane modified porch and deck enamel. Even though the Advantech has a texture only slightly smoother than OSB as you can see in the photo, with a little dust on it, the floor is as slick as snot! Even the non-slip rubber pads I put in in front of my TS and jointer will slip on this floor!! The paint is holding up well, but doesn't look it where I have spilled paint, stain, glue, etc.

[Kurt Cady]

The reason they have trouble is because surface prep requires hard work, and most people don't want to put in the effort.Most of the rustoleum stuff is really just a very low solids paint with ground up epoxy, as you suspect. This is why it is easier, because paint bonds chemically to a lot of stuff, and epoxy doesn't.Note: I have a smaller shop, and I move the large and heavy machines around *constantly*.

I've installed the Rustoleum 2-part 5 times. All garages with tires, ww, etc. ZERO problems after 3-7 years depending. The key is to follow the instructions to the letter. I think most times I let the floor sit to dry about a week. I also used the industrial kit. Or professional. I forget what it's labeled. It's the one that doesn't come with the acid wash. But 2 gallons of hydrochloric acid is about $10. Mix w water.

[Jim Matthews]

I have a similar, much smaller space. Below grade poured foundation with considerably efflorescence in "damp" season.

I'm using OrVX subfloor which comes in 2x2' squares. It's polystyrene on the bottom, OSB on top. My first use was for tiling another below grade basement.
This stuff forms it's own vapor barrier, and can be painted or used as a substrate for other surfaces. I use reclaimed heavy rubber mats from hockey rinks.

It's easy enough to handle, for most DIY installs.

The pieces are fitted with tongue and groove.

An alternative would be the paint used on tennis courts. That should be readily available in Florida.

[Jeff Nicol]

Thom, If the floor is not heated and you want your feet to stay warmer and better for you back and legs a wood floor is the way to go. When my Dad and I had our woodworking shop set up in an old gas station with the repair bay the main floor area for the tools and storage etc. We used what was called "Sturdi Floor" that was 3/4" osb that had T&G edges, we laid down a framework of 2x4 and 2x2 so we could run electrical lines. We used for almost 2 years and never painted it, but over time and use it was smoothed out by foot traffic and sawdust and never did any thing peel up but a few dents were put in here or there but never caused any issues. Since the shed is going to be the shop and not a vehicle use area it is a great beginning and can be painted or whatever later and it also gives you very easy ways to attach things to the floor. One other thing is that you can pour a pad that the lathe will be on to give it a solid base and the wood floor will match up to it.

So for me no 2 part 1 part or whatever, but I am stuck with the old garage and the floor mats that I stand on where I need them.

Good luck with the new buildings and have a Merry Christmas,

Jeff

[Peter J Lee]

I think just densifier/hardener is a great way to go. The product isn't very expensive either. Prepping the floor might cost some depending on how smooth you want to make it.