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Thread: Next shaper question--starter set of cutters

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Atlanta, GA
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    129
    Does anyone have experience using the Byrd Tool brand insert cutters for coping and sticking? It appeared to me that it was a cutterhead that had a lot of interchangeable profiles. I'd like to get a rail/stile set on insert cutters but don't want to have to buy a couple of different heads to fit all the different knife profiles. I would prefer just to buy one head and use all the different profiles for that given size stock.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
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    11,896
    Things are shaping up nicely, no pun intended. I have one of the CMT insert heads on the way and have been given 2 different sets of cope-stick sets, and a 15-degree raised panel cutter.

    What do you guys think about running a 3" diameter 2" high Byrd head on this machine for rabbetting and template work?


  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
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    7,149
    Matt, if it's the shelix heads, I'm thinking that's a fine head for template work, and it will probably work for rabbits too, but I've been told it's not an ideal head for rabbits because it's not designed to make square shoulder cuts on it's edges, and they have no spurs to score the shoulder cut. I have a braised stagger tooth head for template work, kind of like a Byrd head but braised teeth, it's not great for rabbits, I haven't actually tried a Byrd head for rabbits. I used oned for pattern work in another shop and they are sweet for that.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,272
    Matt, I agree with Peter, for template work a rebate head will be fine, however a Byrd head doesn't have the scoring cutters for rebates.

    If I were you I would purchase a standard rebate head with scoring cutters as well................Regards, Rod.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tifton, Ga.
    Posts
    4
    I know this thread is 6 years old, however those of you who have the hss profile heads, do you have any trouble with knicks in your knives similar to planer / jointer knife knicks? After reading this thread I am considering purchasing one but I do work with wood that has knots at times and would be disappointed if they suffered the same fate.

    Also I just purchased the amana rebate head with scoring knives and noticed the scoring knives leave circular ridges on the rebate, no marks with my braised cutters, so do you all experience this issue?

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by brad scarbor View Post
    I know this thread is 6 years old, however those of you who have the hss profile heads, do you have any trouble with knicks in your knives similar to planer / jointer knife knicks? After reading this thread I am considering purchasing one but I do work with wood that has knots at times and would be disappointed if they suffered the same fate.

    Also I just purchased the amana rebate head with scoring knives and noticed the scoring knives leave circular ridges on the rebate, no marks with my braised cutters, so do you all experience this issue?
    If you're using quality steel you won't have a problem. I have one chip in one of my HSS knives, and that's in the cheaper, three hole ones and I have done a lot of work in White Oak with knots. HSS is less brittle than carbide, and in some situations is actually more durable though of course not all.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tifton, Ga.
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    4
    Thanks Brent, by three hole I suppose you mean one of the many knives sold to fit the Amana, CMT, etc.? The Amana head that I'm considering takes a 3 hole hss knife.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Northern Michigan
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    4,995
    Quote Originally Posted by brad scarbor View Post

    Also I just purchased the amana rebate head with scoring knives and noticed the scoring knives leave circular ridges on the rebate, no marks with my braised cutters, so do you all experience this issue?
    Take your knickers off and clean them, reinstall and torque to spec. Not uncommon, but still better than blowout from a straight cutter.

  9. #39
    Yup, that's what I mean. You can run those in a standard, 40mm Euroblock too.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tifton, Ga.
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    4
    Thanks larry and brent, yeah larry this head is brand new, its the amana rebate 125 mm 50mm tall. It leaves the ridges from both ends of the head where the scoring knives cut, so being new and happening from top and bottom, i guess its just the nature of the scoring knives to leave these ridges, unless my head was not machined exact. Think ill swap it for the steel head and see how it does. I make plantation shutters and the half lap shows when they are open so this is unacceptable.

  11. #41
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    May 2013
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    Northern Virginia
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    Check your straight knife height, there should have been a spacer included with the head for setting the height of the knives.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tifton, Ga.
    Posts
    4
    Huhm Jared, that's very interesting, makes since! So if I set my straight knives down lower, they will perhaps clean up the ridges! That's a grand idea! Thank you sir

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
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    1,398
    I’m betting it’s a high knife also. I have seen them move with use but it sounds like this is new. Larry has good advise about the knickers after use. Hard woods will take the knickers down faster than you would think.

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