Hammer Setting Saw Teeth

[David Weaver]

Those are the exact same angles I use on crosscuts. The sloped gullets present another problem for a novice filer, what do you do when the saw is dull and you have to resharpen it? If it was just simply filed 15/20, then you could just touch up the teeth lightly until you get the hang of what you're doing. But if you have the sloped gullets, you're sort of stuck doing more work or finding a saw vise that will allow you to touch them up.

I can understand the ebay issue, things that make for an impressive picture sell well on ebay, and apparently so do huge long descriptions that imply extra care and extra details.

[Chris Griggs]

My default xcut filing is the same 15/20. I have a 20" panel saw that I keep 25* fleam in as I use for finish cut and occasionally joinery cuts where the extra smoothness is appreciated. I also have an xcut I got from Mike Allen that has a slightly more aggressive than usual rake (like around 12 degrees) and the standard 20 fleam. Its very VERY nice to use on softer to medium hardwoods from poplar to walnut/cherry/soft maple. Both those though are still within the realm of pretty standard filing though, and for those with only one xcut saw I do find that 15/20 works best on the largest range of lumber species and thicknesses.

[Noah Wagener]

I dont know how they hit the teeth with out an implement. On some Japanese woodworking forum they say that their hammers are "serrated" and actually bend the teeth opposite of the way you hit them. I've tried the nail set on a cheap saw over a board. I can't say how it worked as ive never had a good or well tuned saw. seems a little too small a kerf as it is difficult to push, i was timid it setting it, but it may be also that it has a "gent's" handle (hate it). I really shouldnot be so timid as set can always be taken out with the vice method alluded to above.

David you seemed to not favor that yet you praised MW's saw tuning who i assume is Mike Wenzloff? He is the only one I've heard ever describe that method. Incidentally i dont think it works how he says it does. If "paper does not compress" as he says then he is simply adding thickness to his vise jaws. I think the teeth get bent back to even with the plate but when release find some happy, consistent medium between where they were overset and flush with plate. If the paper was placed in line with the bottom of the gullets then it would allow the teeth to be bent back short of flush by whatever the thickness of the paper is. Provided he is correct in saying that it doesnt compress. I am sure a saw he tunes works beautifully though.

[lowell holmes]

I tried hammer setting back when. I don't remember the results. Today, I would use my Taintor sawset.

[James Waldron]

I tried hammer setting back when. I don't remember the results. Today, I would use my Taintor sawset.

Well! Why didn't you say so back in 2013?

Actually, it's possibly worth noting that Paul Sellers has a couple of videos on hammer setting, one with a nail set and one - fairly recent, I think - using a screw head.

[Ron Bontz]

There was another thread on another woodworking forum down under that showed through some what scientific test, hammer setting was not necessarily better than hand setting. It in fact implied just the opposite. I am of the opinion, hammer setting, hand setting, etc. The key is consistent set as well as consistent rake, etc. Just an FYI: as with any steel, the sharper the bend, the more prone it is to break if bent the opposite way, purposefully or otherwise. All other things being equal; Hammer setting is certainly faster and easier on the hands, and power hammer setting faster yet. The more saws you make, the less likely you are to hand set the teeth. Ultimately, however, anytime you introduce the human factor, you introduce inconsistency. Whether you are hitting it with a hammer yourself, hand setting, or using a spring loaded hammer set device. No matter what the product or service, there will always be someone out there touting the superiority of their methods or products. That's just marketing. BTW, the Wenzloff method does work , but one should use caution bending teeth back. Vintage saws in particular, and my standard cross cut is simply 15/20 or 15/25. I do occasionally file a combination pattern for exotics or by request. No big deal, but I believe one should keep it fairly simple and let the owner of the saw know exactly what the rake and fleam are so as to make it more easily duplicated when the need arises. Enough said. Now back to my hamster cage. I am pretty sure I saw a carrot hanging around some where.
Best wishes.

[lowell holmes]

You can find Taintor saw sets on line for $10-$12, look for them. I have one and like it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/finnberg68/19827941596