RP Door Questions

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I have made many RP doors that are ¾” thick. I was over at a new friends shop yesterday and he makes all of his with Weaver Shapers and ends up with 13/16” thick doors. The only reason I got out of him for doing this is he has had some break on the back side where the slot is only 1/8” from the edge.(on the R&S) Doors and cabinets is all he does and he has quite a set up. I have about 30 doors to do for a co-worker and I think I will go to the 13/16” route. I would like very much to hear what other door makers use for their thickness and why. I think it would give me a little more room for rounding over when using euro hinges.

Thanks for any help
Johnny

[Peter Quinn]

At home I make mine as thick as possible from 4/4. I'm starting with material that is hit and miss planed to 15/16", so often I can flatten to 13/16" or even 7/8" if I have chosen the boards carefully and all goes well. At work we do custom cabs, start with 5/4, doors finish between 1"- 1 1/6". We use nice brass butt hinges, gives it more of a furniture look and feel, so there is no issue with clearance such as with euro cup hinges. I mostly use blum hinges at home and for side jobs, I think they handle up to 7/8" with the correct reveal for inset (most of what I make is beaded inset cabinetry). For overlay I don't think there would be any clearance issues?

[Chris Rosenberger]

The only time I plane lumber to 3/4" is if I have to. My standard thickness is 13/16" after sanding.
That extra 1/16" is very important, especially when using euro hinges with a profiled edge.

[J.R. Rutter]

I have a cabinet door business, and build everything to finish at 13/16" unless someone wants thicker. It does allow for more meat in the back of the sticking groove, and feels better to me than a 3/4" door.

[jack duren]

I order all door and faceframe stock at 13/16. Leanes enough to run through the overhead...