Opinions on RapidAir Compressed Air Kit

[Ole Anderson]

Lately for critical joints I go with 3 wraps of Teflon tape with pipe dope on top. Belt and suspenders approach. So far 100% on otherwise leaky joints.

[Chris Padilla]

This is my go to pipe joint compound. No more teflon tape for me.

[Dave Halter]

Thanks. I'll go back and start checking the joints. It didn't seem like I should be losing that much air since the system is similar to PEX and it'll hold water.

[Jerome Stanek]

Thanks. I'll go back and start checking the joints. It didn't seem like I should be losing that much air since the system is similar to PEX and it'll hold water.

Check the unloader on the compressor it could be leaking

[Charles R Johnson]

PEX is not brittle so on failure or impact it isn't going to cause shrapnel to fly all over.

[Bill Luce]

I am building a new studio and am in the process of trying to decide what to do about compressed air.

My old studio is around 1400 sf and the new one is around 2200 sf (for the main portion, a couple outbuilding as well.)

My old system had copper compressed air line (3/4 and 1/2 inch for drops) all in wall except at the compressor.

I am torn between a maxline solution and copper again. At first blush the maxline seemed the way to go but now I am not sure the decision is a slam dunk.

From what I've read seems like

maxline:

pros: cheaper by the foot.
connection simpler to make
their outlet fixtures seem handy



cons: harder to build in slope for long runs
wavey for in wall and other exposed runs
very expensive fittings if you need a lot of them

copper:
pros: easy in wall
easy to build traps, drop up and down loops for water
fittings relativeloy in expensive
very durable and reliable once tested
easy to add valves, other adapters etc
cons:
much more expensive per foot
a bit more trouble to install long runs

Since I like the idea of the each drop having a jog up and then down and have lots of drops I have started to wonder how much cheaper the maxline (or rapid air) approach would be overall since their fittings are like $14 a pop or more.

And I want to have everything in the wall before I sheetrock so the rigid copper seems to make that easier.

Any opinions here on over all costs with bunches of drops needed?
And what approach do folks that mix the 3/4 maxline and 1/2 inch maxline for their drops? I haven't so far found a 3/4 to 1/2 inch direct adapter.
What's the best way to interface the maxline and copper lines?

I know the subject has been beat, but I am having trouble deciding and I have an open ditch between buidlings right now that I am considering laying conduit it for possible future compressed air line as I would like to consider not having a compressor in the new second building....So I think I should decide what I am doing for compressed air before I close that ditch.

In addtion, I might run compressed air later to another work area about 50 ft from the other end of the studio from the main garage.

Any more opinions, advice is wellcome. Thanks, Bill

[Mike Cutler]

Bill

If you're installing it in a finished wall, and have the future thoughts of running it underground, than too me copper is your choice. Type L in the wall and Type K in the ground. I'm a little biased though because I work on large industrial air systems and copper is the material of choice. There are good poly products out there, but copper is still a very solid option for a home/small application.
Installing lengths through studs has to be thought out, but it's doable, and if nothing else,Type L comes in annealed rolls. Use nail plates.

[William A Johnston]

I have the rapid air 1/2" system and added a couple of extra manifolds. I only had one fitting that leaked. I replaced it and have had no other leaks. I used a PVC pipe cutter to trim the pipe. Mine is all exposed and I would purchase again. Although I only use my compressor for a brad nailer and airing up tires.

[Dan Clark]

I have the 1/2" system hooked to a California Air Tools (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00889ZYOW/...nia+compressor). It's fairly easy to install except for the air line filter that I bought at HD. That was a pain to install.

Another small issue is that the company recommends pipe dope to seal the fitting connections. I tried that. It leaked. So I went back to what I've been using for years for compressor fittings - Teflon tape. Problem solved.

The only other issue is that my system has a very slow leak - maybe 3-5 PSI per hour - that I can't find. I suspect it's the air line filter, but I'm not sure. In any case it's a minor hassle and not worth spending the effort finding the leak.

Overall RapidAir is a great system, IMO. A huge benefit is running it around obstacles and corners. In my garage shop, doing that with copper, PVC, or iron pipe would be a major hassle. Another benefit is the pipe and fitting alternatives they have available. It's always possible to adapt other pipes and fittings to work, but the question is: how much time and hassle are you willing to tolerate? YMMV.

Dan.

[Steve Milito]

Since I like the idea of the each drop having a jog up and then down and have lots of drops I have started to wonder how much cheaper the maxline (or rapid air) approach would be overall since their fittings are like $14 a pop or more.

Here's a complete list of the parts available for the maxline tubing system.
http://www.rapidairproducts.com/pdfs...form012015.pdf

And I want to have everything in the wall before I sheetrock so the rigid copper seems to make that easier.

Actually I think it's easier to run the somewhat flexible max-line behind the walls. I found running it through trusses, braces, and studs very easy.

Any opinions here on over all costs with bunches of drops needed?
And what approach do folks that mix the 3/4 maxline and 1/2 inch maxline for their drops? I haven't so far found a 3/4 to 1/2 inch direct adapter.
What's the best way to interface the maxline and copper lines?

They make a reducing tee for 3/4" to 1/2" drops. You can use a small piece of pipe and an end cap if you want a reducing elbow but max-line recommends running the tubing as a loop so you shouldn't need a lot of reducing elbows. I don't know how or even why you would want to mix it up but they make a compression tubing to NPT adapter.