Installing over the top stair railing

[Alex Horvath]

Hi all,

Been putting this off too long and now due to a home refi I need to get this installed in 2 weeks since inspector flagged it.
Hopefully one or more people here have installed stair systems.
I have articles on installing railings and there seem to be 2 common methods-

1. Using a string stretched between fittings - this won't work as described on mine because my upper over easing fitting is not a gooseneck and thus I can't attach the string to the bottom of the upper over easing (upper over easing is seen resting on the landing in picture and that newel post is not installed or cut to length).

2. Using a pitch block. It seems like a pitch block will only work if the spacing between the newel posts is exactly a multiple of the run and the horizontal length of the tandem cap and lowerstarting easing cap is identical. But in any case it will get you the correct angles on the easings. However, I suppose the horizontal portion of the tandem cap can be trimmed so the upper newel post lands in the correct spot to preserve the correct baluster spacing.

So, if I use the pitch block approach on both easings which will, when the straight rail section is cut to the correct length, get me to the correct height on the upper easing. Then, my upper newel post location will be determined by the baluster spacing and will require me to trim the tandem cap or in the worst case add a straight section to the tandem cap.

Perhaps I could use the string method (which seems easier to me) by just taping the string to the outside edge of the upper easing, perhaps using a short section of railing aligned with the string to narrow down the location? Then perhaps use the assembled straight railing to mark the upper easing in place (after upper newel post is installed)?

My baluster spacing is 3&5/16".

Thanks for any tips.

[Richard Wolf]

Wow Alex, your head must be spinning. Why are you moving your post to a position that it doesn't belong. Your balcony post should land on the front edge of the balcony. You seem like you are trying to make the over easing work when your staircase doesn't call for an over easing. It should have a goose neck. I think you realize that this is not an easy project and I may be able to talk you through it if you would like. How high are you making the balcony rail? Why are you making the baluster spacing 3 5/16 when your stairs look like a 9" run which will result in a 4 1/2" spacing on the treads or even if you use 3 balusters per step, you will have a 3" spacing? How high is the rail on the rake angle? You can pm me if you would rather.

[Jay Jolliffe]

If you listen to any one person listen to Richard....He's posted some really nice jobs that he's done.

[Alex Horvath]

Richard,

When I started the stair project I planned to roughly duplicate the existing builder railing which was a over easing believe it or not. They did some other odd things like alternating 3/2 balusters per tread. Chalk it up to lack of California craftmanship I suppose. My run is 9&7/8", rise is 7&15/16", lower newel post height is 35&1/2" off of tread. The original upper newel post setback from the nosing was about 10".

If you know where I can find a 6010 Brazillian cherry gooseneck in stock I'll change plans but otherwise I may have to stick with the original.

Thanks

Edit: I requested a quote for a 7088 2 rise gooseneck with cap from Westfire.

[Richard Wolf]

Ok, so to make work what you have there, this is how to proceed. I'll try to be as clear as I can, but if I confuse you, let me know.

1) Attach the over easing to your rake rail.
2) Now you must cut the over easing tangent, place the rail on the stairs with the easing over the balcony, with a square, draw a plum line on the over easing. This should originate from a spot on the easing which is tangent to it's arc.
3) Now you will need help. Lift the rail so it is in line with the starting easing at the bottom of the stairs, maintain the correct angle and height of the rake rail. You can now slide the balcony post with the tandem cap back or forward until the tandem cap lines up with the easing.
4) This will locate the balcony post, and let you mark the rake rail where it gets cut square where it meets the starting easing.

I hope this helps you, if not, keep asking me.

Your other solution would be to get rid of the over easing completely, and get a 10" block top post to use at the balcony. Please don't get over frustrated, I know sometimes this stuff looks very easy, but it is one of the most difficult things you will do in your house. I wish you lived closer, I give you a hand.

[Richard Wolf]

If you would like to speak to me tomorrow you can pm me and I will give you my cell #, maybe I can talk you through it easier. Any help I can be.