Re-Facing a Fireplace, Design Help Needed

[Matthew Bobek]

Hello Everybody,

I am faced with the task of re-facing the upper portion of a fireplace, from the mantel and up. The piece of stone that is setting on the mantle will be used to face the bottom portion of the fireplace and also below the hearth to the floor. Additionally, crown molding will be run around the room and across the fireplace, there will be a slight turn back into the walls at the ends. My general idea is that I would like to do some raised panels possibly with inset molding that would sit proud of the surface (similar to what was done in the article on the main page), or the alternative would be to do a solid surface and then apply the moldings. I also need to attach a floating mantel and everything is going to be painted when complete. The rough dimensions are 34 1/2" x 89".

If you guys could offer some design help that would be great, this is my area that needs more development. Or if there are books or articles out there that would help that would be great too. I've searched but haven't found anything that explains the process of attaching and installing all of this.

As far as experience goes, I'm comfortable with finish carpentry and I am advancing as a woodworker to give you all a baseline to work from. I also have a pretty complete shop in which to construct this.

Thanks!

bare_fireplace.jpg

[Todd Burch]

Been there, done that. Once you've anchored into the brick, it's just woodwork after that.

fireplace01-fullshotbefore.jpg fireplace04-hearthform.jpg fireplace07-endofdaytwo.jpg fireplace09-boxingitin.jpg fireplace10-plywoodcovering.jpg
fireplace11-sheetrock.jpg fireplace13-final.jpg

[Matthew Bobek]

Todd,

Thanks for the pictures, that helps clear up some of my questions. You did a great job!

[Todd Burch]

I would opt for the raised panels with mitered lip moldings. It would be a higher quality look than applied moldings to a flat surface. Some people would never notice the difference, while others, like me, lose sleep over it.

If you break the width of the upper part of the FP into an odd number of sections (3 would be good), that allows for centering of a hanging over the FP. The sections also don't have to be the same width, but I do think symmetry is very important here.

You could get away with flat sides also - it doesn't look like the FP sticks out that much. Or, you could do a flat panel.

Todd

(BTW, you didn't notice the remodel only took 75 minutes... )

[Matthew Bobek]

I couldn't agree with you more, I lose sleep over inside corners that don't come together right on base, not having this just right would give me permanent insomnia. I was also thinking 3 panels, probably with the center being the largest, centered right above the FP. It's good to have some confirmation on that idea. I also like the idea of doing an actual raised panel with the lip moldings, I think it will definitely stand out more, even if some people aren't sure as to why it catches their eye.

Could you comment at all on the construction of a raised panel design for this, or recommend any resources of info. I can visualize how I would like it to go together, but I am unsure as to the proper way of doing it.

Oh, I was so interested in the face lift, I saw the clock, but didn't really "see" it, that has got to be a record time

[Todd Burch]

This is roughly what I was thinking. Both "frames" are 89" wide and 34 1/2" tall, with 4" outer rails and stiles.

SketchUp002.png

The top shows 3 panels 23" wide x 26.5" tall and 2 mid-stiles (also 4" wide). The bottom graphic shows 5 panels, with 4 mid-stiles each 3" wide. The 4 side panels are each 12 51/64" wide and the center panel is 18 51/64" wide. I like the "tall rectangle shapes" better than the "3 big squares" look. With a picture or clock hung in the middle panel, it wouldn't seem to be that much larger than the other panels. Spray the paneling with eyebrow spots - and you'll have something pretty nice.

Todd

[Matthew Bobek]

Wow Todd thanks! That really gives a great representation. So, would I essentially be able to use a paint grade substrate and then apply the frame over that and fill in with the lip moldings? I'm thinking poplar for the frame and then glue and screw the frame to the substrate from behind and install it all at once, placing screws where the lip moldings will go? Please let me know if this is on the correct path. Thanks again!

[Todd Burch]

Well, that won't get you raised panels, but it would get you flat panels, yes. This is the type of project that should take about an hour to make. You could use 3/4" poplar for the two outer stiles, and 3/4" plywood (the ply won't be 3/4" thick, so size your poplar to match the ply - or MDF - or whatever you use) for all the other parts. I would use pocket screws (where each red line is) and glue for the entire assembly, and then nail the sucker up, as you said, where the nails would be covered by the lip molding. A little glue wouldn't hurt either (yellow is fine - poly would expand and possibly create a bulge, and liquid nail would be too thick). No pocket screw jig? Biscuits are fine - they will hold it long enough to get it carried from your shop to the FP. (2 per joint)

Untitled - SketchUp Pro [EVAL].png

This is a risk free way to do it. First, do the frame (all rails and stiles) and then hold up some lip molding to see if you like the look of the flat panels. If you don't, get some 3/4" MDF, cut to fill the holes (minus a tad), raise the edges (actually... lower the edges by cutting your profile) and then glue and nail those suckers up too. Easily done in an afternoon (after you get your nailers up on the brick).

(And no, I would not use pocket screws in MDF - use biscuits for MDF)

[Todd Burch]

Actually, you don't need a paint grade substrate over the whole area. You could get by with a paint grade substrate (like 1/4" hardboard or MDF) in just the panel areas, and that is even better, because typical lip molding is better suited for a 1/2" difference in planes, as opposed to a 3/4" difference. Doing this, though, will require your brick nailers to be positioned appropriately for supporting both the frame and the panels - plus don't forget a hidden nailer in your center panel to support the weight of anything you might hang.

Todd

[Matthew Bobek]

Thanks for the clarification, I got a little ahead of myself there! I was thinking pocket screws as well after I last posted. This is all a lot more clear than it was earlier, I really appreciate the drawings and all of your input. I can't wait to actually get working on this, it should be an enjoyable process. Thank you.