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Thread: Remote control dust collector unit

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    westchester cty, NY
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    796
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Landel View Post
    The problem I have with this idea is the fact my dust collector is 120 volt and my tools are both 120 volt and 220 volt - 30 amp.

    What is available that is rated to handle 15 amps 120 volt minimum?
    while i realize you may be headed in another direction, the pro series of the ivac units accomodates a tools and collectors of either 110 or 220v. a 110v powered tool can activate a 220v DC. and a 220v tool can activate a 110v DC. the Pro system seems to be pretty flexible as this indicates:

    http://www.ivacswitch.com/default.action?itemid=57


    just my $.02.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
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    The only disadvantage of having a current sensor in or adjacent to the panel is that everything and anything powered by that circuit will turn on the DC. If you have your machines either on separate or grouped circuits you'll need multiple sensors, a sensor with an opening large enough for multiple wires, or a small "sensed" subpanel for all your machine circuits. None of this is especially difficult, it just requires a little planning, and the knowledge and skills to be able to mess with and rewire your breaker panel. You also need to be able to manually control your system- on those occasions when you want the DC running with no machine is running.

    I had the same issue when I wired my autogates- I ended up putting current sensor switches at every machine outlet where the machine was serviced by a blast gate. The DC operates secondary to that function- it is triggered by a sensor on the autogate power transformer, so if any gate is opened automatically or manually the DC starts.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
    Posts
    147
    Two build-your-own-remote references were helpful when I built mine:

    http://www.beautifulwood.net/html/wireless_dc.html
    http://waterheatertimer.org/Install.html edit

    A good idea was to include an on-off light on the outside of the contactor box.

    Jim
    Last edited by Jim Falsetti; 01-25-2012 at 8:04 AM. Reason: poor typing

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern, New Jersey
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Falsetti View Post
    Two build-your-own-remote references were helpful when I built mine:

    http://www.beautifulwood.net/html/wireless_dc.html
    http://waterheatertimer.org/Install.html edit

    A good idea was to include an on-off light on the outside of the contactor box.

    Jim

    Jim, thanks so much for the info. This is just what I needed.

    How did you find this guy? What a time saver. Plus he does such a good job detailing the project with pictures. I have got to write him a note of thanks also.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Schaffter View Post
    The only disadvantage of having a current sensor in or adjacent to the panel is that everything and anything powered by that circuit will turn on the DC. If you have your machines either on separate or grouped circuits you'll need multiple sensors, a sensor with an opening large enough for multiple wires, or a small "sensed" subpanel for all your machine circuits. None of this is especially difficult, it just requires a little planning, and the knowledge and skills to be able to mess with and rewire your breaker panel. You also need to be able to manually control your system- on those occasions when you want the DC running with no machine is running.

    I had the same issue when I wired my autogates- I ended up putting current sensor switches at every machine outlet where the machine was serviced by a blast gate. The DC operates secondary to that function- it is triggered by a sensor on the autogate power transformer, so if any gate is opened automatically or manually the DC starts.
    I have dedicated circuits for my power tools. I use "multi wire branch circuits" to power both my 110 and 220 tools. The sensor loop on unit can pass six #12 wires through it. That means I can have six 220 circuits along with six 110 circuits that control DC. A switch on the blast gate is a PITA to me. Because 90% of my use is table saw, that gate stays open, except when using a different machine.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
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    2,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    I have dedicated circuits for my power tools. I use "multi wire branch circuits" to power both my 110 and 220 tools. The sensor loop on unit can pass six #12 wires through it. That means I can have six 220 circuits along with six 110 circuits that control DC. A switch on the blast gate is a PITA to me. Because 90% of my use is table saw, that gate stays open, except when using a different machine.
    That should work. A bit much for an electrical rookie. What do you use for manual control of the DC?

    I agree about DC switches at the gate. I realized my problem wasn't turning on the DC, it was opening or remembering to open or close blast gates (and the DC if switches were mounted on the gates. If I forgot or was too lazy to open the gate, it wouldn't matter whether the DC started or not. Instead, I have individual current sensors in boxes adjacent to the receptacle boxes which power each machine- the reason: my sensors activate the gates, so the only open gate is(are) the one(s) serving the machine(s) that is(are) running. If the machine isn't running, the gate is always closed. My gates also have manual control buttons in case I want to connect a vac, etc. to one. Activation of any gate anywhere, either manually or automatically triggers a single sensor on the gate power supply that causes the DC to start.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    'over here' - Ireland
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    2,532
    This won't apply to all, but many (maybe most) VFDs have a facility to remotely control them (speed, start/stop/reversing) by simply making or breaking a switch in a low voltage and low current circuit wired between two designated control terminals on the unit. It's normally (but check the manual) as simple as running a wire from a common output terminal to your switch (manual or radio) and back to the terminal assigned for the specific control function.

    If you're using a VFD for any reason (some of us have them on larger systems for speed control including speed increase, minimisation of start up current and the like) on your dust system fan (speed control etc) this opens the way to remotely controlling it using one of those readily available radio controlled (by key fob) low voltage and current relay/switch units sold for household automation jobs like opening a garage door.

    If you're not 100% confident about the reliability of the radio operated switch you can wire it in parallel with a manual switch mounted in a small box (which can also contain the radio switch) and placed somewhere easily accessible in the workshop.

    It may be required to use a shielded cable (see manual again) when wiring the circuit as VFDs emit a fair amount of electrical noise which can cause interference, but it's dead simple and adds no significant cost....

    ian

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    174
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe A Faulkner View Post
    .... The modules must have a line of sight path in order to operate...
    The units are spec'd as line of sight but will work through walls (albeit, less distance). In other words, they are RF not infrared (infrared requires line of sight, RF does not).

  9. #39

    New but maybe helpful

    I am new to this fourm and I joined to learn more about woodworking, however I may have something to add to this thread. Being an Electrician, I set up my workshop to remote start/run my Grizzley 220v/2 hp Dust Collector. I put a seperate circuit, with Ivory colored recepts. around the shop. When I plug into any of these recepts with any of my power tools, and turn the tool on, my Collector automatically comes on. All it took was a CT (Current Transformer) and a 40 amp, two pole relay. No messing around with a secondary RF/IR control, or anything like that. When I turn my Router/Table Saw/Radial Arm Saw on, the Collector comes on, and when I turn it off, the Collector shuts off.

    I have been using the system for ten years, so I take it for granted. After reading some of the posting in this forum, I can see how it would be a pain, in my opinion, if every time I needed to make a minor cut, I had to fiddle with a remote fob, or some other type of switch to use my collector. If anyone is interested, I can provide more information with photos, and a wiring diagram.

  10. #40
    +1 on the Long Ranger by PSI...Have had it for several years and absolutely love it. Couldn't imagine working without it for my DC.
    My wife says that I've never met a tool I haven't liked. People on the other hand......

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
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    1,617
    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Kerry View Post
    And they're Canadian (shameless patriotic plug) !
    We won't hold that against you, Lloyd!

    Jim "United State of Alaska" Neeley!
    One can never have too many planes and chisels... or so I'm learning!!

  12. #42
    Hello Bob - I don't have time right now to read all the replies so this may be a duplicate. I have a 5hp 220v cyclone and this is the switch I made. It has worked well for about a year now and you can build it for well under 100 bucks, (I omitted the bin indicator relay). http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Bull...read.php?t=954 Dave
    Last edited by Dave Bonde; 01-02-2013 at 4:42 PM.

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Tsutsui View Post
    I built a DIY unit using the following:

    Packard C240B 2 Pole 40 Amps 120 volt Coil Contactor = $11.17 shipped from Ebay.
    Hi. I understand the basic principal of how a contactor works, and purchased the C240B, but it didn't come with a wiring diagram. Anyone tell me what goes where?
    Thanks

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