This is my second time at cutting all new teeth and my first at making a handle for a saw. The teeth are at 13 ppi, 5º rake and 5º fleam.
In all of the old junk that comes my way was an old Disston backsaw plate. It was in fairly bad shape, but that never stopped me before. Over the last few years I have spent some time cleaning it up when the mood came over me. Even with all the sanding and such there is still a bit of pitting.
Other projects and circumstance kept it on one of my many back burners until now.
Another unrelated incident also came into play...
About 3 years ago a neighbor had an apple tree come down in a storm. Lucky for me I found out about it before he burned it all. He actually made me feel like I was helping him out by hauling it away for him.
Now some of the smaller pieces are dry enough to use.
Apple Wood.jpg
This wood actually got me to put a camber on a blade for my #5-1/4 plane to use it as a scrub plane.
The bottom piece is the one used to lay out a saw handle. It was cut and the piece on the left is a piece of scrap that will be sure to find some use.
My template was from the Gramercy Dovetail Saw Kit instructions. First a handle was made to the drawing in pine to see how it would fit my hand. Notes were made on the drawing and things set aside until recently.
The limb this was riven from wasn't big enough to get the grain to my desire, but what the heck, it was fun anyway.
The blank was marked and drilled, cut with a bandsaw and the work began.
Back Saw Handle Rough.jpg
The pictures don't show it, but there were remnants of bark on both sides of this piece. After the starting shape was cut out, the rasps, chisels and gouges had their turn at it.
Shaping Saw Handle.jpg
To cut the kerf in the handle one method is to use the saw plate without set to cut into the handle. The back could have been removed, but instead my plan was to use the support for a depth gauge so a groove was plowed into the support to hold the back of the saw plate.
Saw Blade Rabbet.jpg
Some test cuts were made. The saw plate was watched to make sure it wasn't flexing to indicate it wasn't parallel to the bench top. A shallow kerf was also cut in the test piece to check the tracking. Good thing as the blade was at a slight angle. A piece of blade is in the final test to show how the blade tracked after using a couple layers of tape to adjust the angle.
Cut After Adjustment.jpg
Cutting the actual handle went well. Note the gloves, these are to protect my hands while cutting. Only a little blood was spilled on the handle and that was during the planing. My pinky finger was over the edge of a plane and got nicked by one of the horns. Ouch!
Handle Cut.jpg
Once the kerf for the blade was finished the blade was put in place and used to mark the mortise needed for the back. This was sawn and then cut out with chisels. It was my intention to have the back slightly above the wood and the blade flush. That still put the tooth line below the horns.
Even with all the care of marking out the bolt holes I managed to goof up.
Off Center, Oops!.jpg
Another thing I learned is it is easier to set the teeth on a saw like this without the handle. The saw set was set to just about the minimum, but next time I will aim for even less.
Once it all came together though it cuts and tracks quite well without having to stone the teeth at all. There is a little bit of line left at the end of the angled cut. If I am going to split a line, a fatter pencil is in order.
Tracking The Line.jpg
One of the things I like in my handles is a place for the finger tips to rest. There is a notch running up the side of the handle. This handle is also a touch fatter than an inch. Fits my hand just they way I like it.
The handle is finished with an oil and wax mixture. I was thinking of giving it a coat of shellac but I like the feel of bare wood.
Even with all the little mistakes, I guess I will have to get some fresh steel and try another.
jtk
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Originally Posted by Mike Holbrook
