matching stain, spraying and topcoat choices.

[Andy Maldoror]

i got a commission to make a few of these picture frame mounts...two 4'x5'. i've got to match up the color and finish.
this will be the first time i've stained wood and topcoated with something other than oil/varnish wipe-on blends since i was a kid messing around with stains.

i just bought a spray gun from homestead and now i'm shopping for the stain and top-coat. the camera flash exaggerates the red color and makes it a little lighter than it is. i don't have a woodworking store nearby so i'm trying to match the color looking at projects online. i'm thinking General Finishes water based Rosewood...and for the topcoat GF water based Satin Polyurethane. Would you say that's about right?

Can you give me any other advise? it's maple...should i start with a sanding sealer...or will that make the stain too light? any opinion on spraying the stain vs. wiping? i read to spray a few light coats and don't wipe...is that the way to go?
i've got to order supplies tonight or tomorrow and i've got to get my order right because the project is due in 8 days.

thanks
andy

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[Henry Ambrose]

Order several stains that ought to be about right so you can experiment.
You may end up using more than one to get the color just right.
You'll also have better luck matching using a glaze or tinted finish coat.
I'd use lacquer instead of poly.

[Andy Maldoror]

i've got some transtint and an unopened quart of GF ebony stain here.
why lacquer over poly? which brand do you recommend?

[William OConnell]

I have to agree with the lacquer over poly comment. The finish with lacqueris just warmer and more professional looking. Poly is very stark. Eventually your going to have to learn lacquers and their mxes. It takes finishes to another level.
I use Gemini products. Preferably the high solids conversion lacquer which is a varnish lacquer mix.
You can grab some water based minwax stains at a big box store. Maybe a rosewood or mahogany. They dry fast. If you bought a gun from Jeff its probably a good one.
Spraying stains is the way to go, just keep a test board in the area. Just start with the material dialed way down and slowly increase. You can add coats to darken as needed.
I made a video on youtube with some info on how I set and adjust my HVLP settings on one of Jeffs guns.
Here's a link to the video which is a little long at 19 minutes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3U6XMy7QJk

[Andy Maldoror]

just to get started...would i be wasting time/money buying a quart of Qualalacq from woodcraft? the lacquer, sanding sealer and thinner comes to $50. do i need the sanding sealer first? and could i use the generic lacquer thinner i have?
or should i just buy a gallon of whatever lacquer i can find locally?

[William OConnell]

Lacquer is not expensive. usually 25 bucks at a box store like Lowes. I personally don't hardly ever use a sanding sealer. With maple I would suggest a pre stain wood conditioner. It really does help on woods such as maple and cherry to keep the blotching down.
I use t88 lacquer thinner but have used generic lacquer thinners often with no ill results.