New shop

[Randy Rose]

Shop 014.jpgShop 006.jpgShop 012.jpgShop progress 010.jpgShop progress 014.jpgShop progress 012.jpg

Started in December, moving along and hope to get my equipment out of storage and begin making sawdust. Painting (in & out) will have to wait for spring.

[Joe A Faulkner]

Very interesting design. I love the fact you have a wooden floor. How is the building anchored to the ground? What motivated the porch? I would have been inclied to maximize the interior space, though from an asthetics standpoint the porch gives the building more character that the standard detached garage style building. Did you run a subpanel to the building?

Will the entire shop be dedicated to wood working? It looks like a great space.

[Randy Rose]

Very interesting design. I love the fact you have a wooden floor. How is the building anchored to the ground? What motivated the porch? I would have been inclied to maximize the interior space, though from an asthetics standpoint the porch gives the building more character that the standard detached garage style building. Did you run a subpanel to the building?

Will the entire shop be dedicated to wood working? It looks like a great space.

Floor is treated 5/8ths T&G topped with 1/2" blue foam insulation and then a layer of 1/2" plywood. I have freeboard to add another layer of insulation and plywood if necessary. So far it`s warmer and more comfortable than concrete. Bldg sits on 24 4x4`s set 48" and concreted in. The porch is for beer drinking and aesthetics, did not want a featureless "block" sitting in the yard. You`re right, I struggled with the idea of space versus looks. Yes, has a separate electrical service from the meter and same for the gas. Yes, strictly for sawdust. Thanks!

[Joseph Tarantino]

nice shop. acreage is always a good thing. and the building code in your area permits waferboard wall covering?

[Jim Andrew]

Would you explain your base for the building. Your post says 4x4's concreted in. Need more input. Thanks

[Randy Rose]

Would you explain your base for the building. Your post says 4x4's concreted in. Need more input. Thanks

Essentially, it`s built just like a deck. Posts around the perimeter and another group through the center line. These posts then have 2x10`s lagged to BOTH sides, making an "H" with the top and bottom also boxed in
Joist hangers and 2x8`s installed. The floor was then layered in, a sill plate added and conventional stud walls erected on the sill

[Randy Rose]

nice shop. the building code in your area permits waferboard wall covering?

Don`t know, didn`t ask ! New home construction uses it as exterior sheeting prior to siding being installed, so I assume it`s allowed.
Faster and easier to install than drywall, won`t dent, and allows more flexibilty when adding surface mount electric, air/gas lines, cabinets or just hanging jigs on the walls.
I`m sure it will require several coats of paint but, I prefer that over finishing drywall. Actually I`d rather go to the dentist than tape/mud/sand sheetrock.

[Bill Edwards(2)]

Essentially, it`s built just like a deck. Posts around the perimeter and another group through the center line. These posts then have 2x10`s lagged to BOTH sides, making an "H" with the top and bottom also boxed in
Joist hangers and 2x8`s installed. The floor was then layered in, a sill plate added and conventional stud walls erected on the sill

Soooo!! Pole type construction

[Joseph Tarantino]

Don`t know, didn`t ask ! New home construction uses it as exterior sheeting prior to siding being installed, so I assume it`s allowed.
Faster and easier to install than drywall, won`t dent, and allows more flexibilty when adding surface mount electric, air/gas lines, cabinets or just hanging jigs on the walls.
I`m sure it will require several coats of paint but, I prefer that over finishing drywall. Actually I`d rather go to the dentist than tape/mud/sand sheetrock.

that's because it's on the outside of the framing, in theory away from most of the fire causing hazzards, like electricity. i ask because here in ny, code for any finished interior walls is drywall. i also noticed the heaters mounted on your waferboard and wondered what waferboard's flash point is? that kind of approach wouldn't be allowed here. any bulding like that would require a bulding permit here, ansd that would require plans from a licensed professional. i take it that's not the case where you are?

[Randy Rose]

^ Permits are required, final inspection occured after the shell was finished and utility feeds installed. After that, you`re on your own.
I`ve monitored the ceiling temp above the htrs and it seems quite safe, however I plan to add a fireproof or reflective panel above each just to be on the safe side

[Jim Andrew]

Would you explain how you installed the floor, going right back to the start. Your post said 4x4's on 48 concreted in? Wondered if you put sand or gravel under the 4x4's, like you would with concrete? And then if you fastened the ends of the 4x4's at the ends, then, did you mean you filled the space between 4x4's with concrete? Was thinking of using your method to finish a space in my building that has no floor yet. Sounds like a way of having a wood floor instead of concrete.

[Steve Meliza]

I think the OSB for the interior walls was a good choice for your shop, it's what I would use unless I suddenly found myself with an excess of cash. I also like how you've run the electrical on the surface in conduit as that makes it a lot easier to make changes later on if desired.

[Rob Russell]

Looks like a great shop. As someone with a basement shop, grade-level access is a huge plus.

[Randy Rose]

Would you explain how you installed the floor, going right back to the start. Your post said 4x4's on 48 concreted in? Wondered if you put sand or gravel under the 4x4's, like you would with concrete? And then if you fastened the ends of the 4x4's at the ends, then, did you mean you filled the space between 4x4's with concrete? Was thinking of using your method to finish a space in my building that has no floor yet. Sounds like a way of having a wood floor instead of concrete.

Sounds like you are referring to the method where the 4x4`s are laid HORIZONTALLY on the ground to create a skid type base. This method was not used.
If you view the exterior pictures, you will see the 4x4`s are set VERTICALLY into the ground. They sit on concrete blocks set at the base of the hole (48" deep) and are then surrounded by concrete poured into the holes. The 2 X`s are then attached to these upright posts to create a box, with floor joists running from the outer sections of the box to the center "rib". Same as what you`d see when you look at your basement ceiling. Then a layer of treated 5/8ths T&G plywood was set on top of this decking structure. Followed by a 1/2 layer of blue styrofoam insulation, topped with 1/2 plywood. Concrete would have actually cost less, but I believe that wood flooring is warmer and easier on your feet/legs/back.

[Randy Rose]

I think the OSB for the interior walls was a good choice for your shop, it's what I would use unless I suddenly found myself with an excess of cash. I also like how you've run the electrical on the surface in conduit as that makes it a lot easier to make changes later on if desired.

Thanks, I left an additional unused circuit in the ceiling junction boxes for expanding the lighting if required.
But the real reason for surface mounting is that I`m lazy, the amount of time saved by not drilling the studs for romex was only exceeded by not having to locate and cut holes in the OSB for all those receptacles etc. Mounting the EMT horizontally above bench height means that ( hopefully ) it won`t interfere with later wall cabinets etc in the way that vertical drops might. I`m not smart enough to plan the location of every future addition so I need flexibility