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Thread: MiniWax Oil base stain

  1. #1

    MiniWax Oil base stain

    I have a question about MiniWax oil base stain. What is in this stuff? I stained somebare wood, brushed it on rubbed it in good with a blue shop towel and thenwiped it down. I’ve tried a heavy wipe down – then you have very little color,even after 15 minutes and 2 applications. I also try wiping it off lightly andthen dry brushing with the grain (the latter being advised by the SherwinWilliams salesman.) SW method yields a darker color, but seems wrong to me as it leaves a surface film that’sreally sticky and shines like it has a finish on it. Note: pre sanded w/ 150grit on red oak.
    No matter how you put in on it seems to remain sticky, shinyand feels waxy or soap slick days later. While I was at SW I tested the SherwinWilliams Classic oil stain, it dried clean and not sticky or shiny in 2 hours.Two days later and I still have stain oozing out of the Oak sample with theMiniWax and on the same piece of wood the Sherwin Williams stain is dry, and hasbeen dry since 2 hours after it was applied. SW owns MiniWax and salesman saidboth are alkyd base. I would use the SW stain but they could not match my color– so I’m stuck with Miniwax on this project.
    After I sprayed a test spot with a spray can ofLacquer and 9 hours later I checked and can scratch the Lacquer off the MiniWaxwith my finger nail. That don’t say much for adhesion on the sticky, glossysurface Miniwax leaves. It seems to beall goop and very little pigment. This fun project is turning into not so much fun. More to follow on my next wreck-

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    Sounds like you may have a bad batch of the stain. Minwax oil stains (and similar) are pigment stains in what I would describe as a very thin oil based varnish that is used as a binder. If that binder is bad, it may not be curing properly. The fact that the SW labeled product "dries" and that Minwax product does not is a good indicator that you have a bad product.

    Do note that if your stain product is not curing properly, any finish may not adhere to it well...and some less than others.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    Well...........Ya gets whats ya pay for. MW stuff is a last resort in my shop. Did I say LAST RESORT?
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
    Posts
    3,147
    Minwax Wood Finish oil based stain contains colored pigment suspended in an linseed oil dye stain. It also contains a resin (varnish) to hold the pigment onto the surface of the wood, and a mineral spirit type of thinner.

    What species wood are you trying to color? Did you sand the wood surface before applying the stain? Minwax stain MUST be allowed to sit on the wood for 15-20 minutes and then the excess MUST be wiped off per the instructions on the label. It it it not thoroughly wiped off, the stain will not dry and any clear coat applied will not dry either.

    If you are staining oak, you will get bleed back of the stain for a period of time. The stain ingredients get down into the deep pores and as the thinners evaporate the oil and colorants will come to the surface. With oak, you must go back every 15-20 minutes and wipe off the bleed back. Depending on how much you initially applied, the bleed back should cease in 1-3 hours. Once it stops, let the stain dry for 24 hours.
    Howie.........

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