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Thread: A Great Woodie Build Off

  1. #406
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Central Valley, Ca.
    Posts
    5
    DW,

    I for one would be interested how you set up a "bailey", I am relative new to hand planes & would Appreciate it.

  2. #407
    Paul, there are a lot of resources for setting the plane up to cut when conditions are good. I don't remember what videos or books describe what, so maybe someone else could provide a link to something that talks about basic setup of a plane. I'd sum it up as everything needs to be clean, tight and sharp.

    If you're looking for more than that, like working difficult wood, let me know.

  3. #408
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    Quote Originally Posted by PAUL FOWLER View Post
    DW,

    I for one would be interested how you set up a "bailey", I am relative new to hand planes & would Appreciate it.
    Hi Paul

    Welcome to SMC.

    Why not start a thread on that very topic. You will get loads of advice and ideas.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #409
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    208
    There is a sticky at the top of the Neanderthal Haven section that has several good threads on metal hand planes. Check it out here.
    Last edited by Mark Godlesky; 07-13-2012 at 11:21 PM. Reason: Link didn't work

  5. #410
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    Are we done? Is this thread to die?

    Here is a jointer I completed today. I was assessing some pre-production handlemaker's rasps for Liogier - making a closed handle to assess the curve in the blade - when it seemed reasonable to add a body to the completed handle (what else would you do with it?). I found a 2 1/4" and tapered 3/16" thick Sorby blade, and seemed ideal. I decided on 28" for the length. Why 28"? This is a manageable size in a longer jointer. I have a 30" which feels just a little too long, and also too light (the body is low in the tradition of the HNT Gordon planes). The 28" ended up weighing about twice as much as the 30" even though it is another razee design.

    A few pics ..





    How big is it?

    Well, it seems small against the 36 1/2" coopers jointer (rear) and a bit larger than the 15" jack (front) ...



    In use it is balanced and comfortable, even on a 1/2" edge ...





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #411
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,443
    Derek - the exterior chamfering, rather than interior "eyes" looked a little odd to me at first, but I actually really like it. The stopped chamfering around the blade mortise, besides being functional, is very well done and adds a nice look to it. I also really like the little details on the wedge. All around, it's darn purty!

    Still love the little classic car flair to the nose of that jack plane, too.
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  7. #412
    Hi Derek,

    many congrats on those beauties. I do like the attention to detail, you show. It's a pure joy to watch the pics. One annotation to the 2 longer planes. Wouldn't it make sense to use the front of the totes to give the iron some more support? Especially the long jointer that has a lever cap might benefit, if the blade support would be behind the place where the lever cap screw presses the blade. Just a thought, no critizism by any means.

    Cheers
    Klaus
    Klaus Kretschmar

  8. #413
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    1,632
    I feel kinda bad, I started this thread but have found no time to post lately. I have two jacks setting on my bench just waiting for me to fit the wedges, since May. But when you see the three infills that I have in process you'll see what has been keeping me busy! They are a long way from finished but when they are done then I'll finish the two wooden jacks.

    So no we are not done with this thread yet!
    The Plane Anarchist

  9. #414

    I'm working on it...

    I'm trying, but I have all these mouths to feed.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Trevor Walsh
    TWDesignShop

  10. #415
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    Hi Joshua. Thanks for the kind words. The reason for the exterior chamfers, as opposed to internal chamfers, was mainly to give the plane a family resemblance to the coopers jointer. The chamfers on the latter had been influenced by having a lever cap and the laminated construction, so I was not sure if it would work on this small (!) jointer. The chamfers disguise the laminations. The problem (for me) is finding wood that is wide enough to chop a mouth. I am recycling roofing timber. I can get the length but not the width.

    Hi Klaus, Thanks as well. I understand what you mean about using the front of the tote. That is traditional with infill planes. I cannot recall, however, ever seeing a woodie built that way. There is no need in any event as the bed is deep and there is a great deel of support for the blade. With regard the force exerted by a lever cap, don't forget that this is at two places in the blade - at the top (which is visible) but also at lower end. The combination is super rigid. The cooper's jointer and the jack both have set screws as well (ala LV planes), and I find this very helpful in setting up a plane or returning a blade to a previous setting. The new jointer does not as yet have these set screws. Not 18th or 19th century, but I recommend them to all.

    I've got to get my mind off plane building and back to furniture. There are three pieces I am looking forward to: a writing desk, a chair for it, and a display cabinet. The trouble is that they take a long time (I only have weekends in the shop), and planes are a quick fix .. and there are three planes I am considering building (a moving filletster to match the plough, and male-and female dovetail planes - better versions of the ones I built several years ago).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #416
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Dnipropetrovsk, Ukraine
    Posts
    58
    Hello,

    This link to a Russian woodworkers forum thread with enough greate woodie to be presented here. THis plane was made by Alex Kashtanov
    http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=44054.0

  12. #417
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, MI
    Posts
    1,524
    Ok, so it has been more than a year since this thread was first started. Who's up for a 2013 version of it? I've got the image of a beautiful plane stuck in my head and I'd like to get it out!
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  13. #418
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,443
    I'd be in if I ever get around to buying some floats. I spent the money I had set aside for floats on a low bid on a Clifton jointer on the eBay, and was surprised to win. . . which I guess means I don't need to track down that large blank for a jointer, although that's still sort of in the back of my brain. . .
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  14. #419
    Maybe later this year if we open it up to infills. I have a couple of infills I'd like to build, but I don't know if I have much incentive to do it now.

    I have a big dry piece of dead QS cocobolo I could waste on a regular woody smoother, too.

  15. #420
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Israel
    Posts
    1,503
    Blog Entries
    1
    I think it would be cool to make the thread open to all shop made planes. and in general leave it open.
    I plane on making a shooting plane also later this year and love seeing the planes other people make.


    If I'm already posting, here is my first coffin smoother finished the other day (aside from the prototype). it's very comfortable and works great. I could put more effort into the final esthetics. only apology is that it's laminated.

    Ipe sole
    HSS blade from LV. would be nicer to have O1. wish LV made them in 1 3\4 inch too.
    Oak body with added wights (two 1" diameter steel rods), total weight is just under 2lbs.

    P3270324 (1280x960).jpgP3270323 (1280x960).jpgP3270322 (1280x960).jpgP3270321 (1280x960).jpg
    Last edited by Matthew N. Masail; 03-28-2013 at 1:29 PM.

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