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Thread: A Great Woodie Build Off

  1. #436
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    South Dakota
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    1,627
    Yeah, Rob owes us one.
    How about one of you fellers throwing out the challenge. People are probably sick of my jabber.
    I think a shoulder plane would be fun to build.
    Maybe we could get an iron maker to give us a group buy price on some shoulder plane irons.
    The Plane Anarchist

  2. #437
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    Yep, Rob owes us one. I know he has a piece of ebony for it.

    He'll probably claim that it is -100 Centigrade and that his block plane is frozen to the window ledge, where he left it three years ago.

    So, while this thread is still active - I have a bunch for the next thread as I am busy making them for a LN Tool Event in a fortnight - here is one that I made several months ago. I don't think I posted it in this thread.

    The background is the dovetail plane I built 7 years ago ..





    Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...l%20Plane.html

    Fast forward to September last year. After many requests, I finally got off my duff to make the female version ...





    Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...gDovetail.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #438
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ellsworth, Maine
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    1,805
    So I just recently picked up a bandsaw and the only thing I could think of to use the saw right off was a Krenov style plane. So I went and made a quick 55* high angle smoothing plane. I used the wood I had on hand. Hard maple body and zebra wood sole with a spanish cedar wedge just because I like the smell of the stuff. So I figured I post it in this thread, a bit late but oh well. I do wish it was a bit heavier, should've added some weight in the body while I had it apart. But I was in a hurry as other projects are pressing. In the pictures you'll notice a missing bevel on the inside of the right cheek, I've since refined these smaller details. But I have been incredibly impressed by this plane's performance, especially in somewhat knarly wood. I had it taking .100" shavings without having to adjust the bed or wedge. Obviously I had to flatten the sole initially but other than that it worked awesome, and is actually very comfortable with the high rear end and high toe.

    Oh and don't mind the pencil marks still inside the cheeks.

    BTW, the bandsaw is a Grizzly 17" 2hp with a motor brake, very happy with this thing. It is the only powertool at my disposal at the moment and really like it this way.


    plane1 resize.jpgplane2 resize.jpgplane3 resize.jpgplane4 resize.jpg

  4. #439
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
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    3,697
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Shea View Post
    So I just recently picked up a bandsaw and the only thing I could think of to use the saw right off was a Krenov style plane. So I went and made a quick 55* high angle smoothing plane. I used the wood I had on hand. Hard maple body and zebra wood sole with a spanish cedar wedge just because I like the smell of the stuff. So I figured I post it in this thread, a bit late but oh well. I do wish it was a bit heavier, should've added some weight in the body while I had it apart. But I was in a hurry as other projects are pressing. In the pictures you'll notice a missing bevel on the inside of the right cheek, I've since refined these smaller details. But I have been incredibly impressed by this plane's performance, especially in somewhat knarly wood. I had it taking .100" shavings without having to adjust the bed or wedge. Obviously I had to flatten the sole initially but other than that it worked awesome, and is actually very comfortable with the high rear end and high toe.

    Oh and don't mind the pencil marks still inside the cheeks.

    BTW, the bandsaw is a Grizzly 17" 2hp with a motor brake, very happy with this thing. It is the only powertool at my disposal at the moment and really like it this way.


    plane1 resize.jpgplane2 resize.jpgplane3 resize.jpgplane4 resize.jpg
    I love that this was the first thing you thought to do with your new bandsaw! (which I am very jealous of BTW). It really is cool that such a nice plane can be made so quickly...thats the beauty of the laminated planes. To me there is something so elegant about their simple design and construction. Very cool Tony!
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  5. #440
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
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    2,443
    I'm also jealous of your new bandsaw! Nice plane, too!

    I love the way that maple looks like on the side of that plane. Every time I can make the cut work out like I that, I fall for it - even better than fancy figure in my world. . .
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  6. #441
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
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    6,824
    The shooting board is an essential jig in a hand-tool shop.

    This variant is worthy of a longer, more detailed thread.
    I note the adjustable side fence, to trap the plane on the track.

    I've been wondering how to retrofit my shooting board to do just this.

  7. #442
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    9,467
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Matthews View Post
    The shooting board is an essential jig in a hand-tool shop.

    This variant is worthy of a longer, more detailed thread.
    I note the adjustable side fence, to trap the plane on the track.

    I've been wondering how to retrofit my shooting board to do just this.

    Try this: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...tingBoard.html



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #443
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Israel
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Shea View Post
    So I just recently picked up a bandsaw and the only thing I could think of to use the saw right off was a Krenov style plane. So I went and made a quick 55* high angle smoothing plane. I used the wood I had on hand. Hard maple body and zebra wood sole with a spanish cedar wedge just because I like the smell of the stuff. So I figured I post it in this thread, a bit late but oh well. I do wish it was a bit heavier, should've added some weight in the body while I had it apart. But I was in a hurry as other projects are pressing. In the pictures you'll notice a missing bevel on the inside of the right cheek, I've since refined these smaller details. But I have been incredibly impressed by this plane's performance, especially in somewhat knarly wood. I had it taking .100" shavings without having to adjust the bed or wedge. Obviously I had to flatten the sole initially but other than that it worked awesome, and is actually very comfortable with the high rear end and high toe.

    Oh and don't mind the pencil marks still inside the cheeks.

    BTW, the bandsaw is a Grizzly 17" 2hp with a motor brake, very happy with this thing. It is the only powertool at my disposal at the moment and really like it this way.


    plane1 resize.jpgplane2 resize.jpgplane3 resize.jpgplane4 resize.jpg
    Nice! l like the way the zebra wood looks with the maple, and it seems to work really well. I'd love to hear a report back about comfort in use after a while if you happen to remember.

  9. #444
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post





    Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...l%20Plane.html

    Fast forward to September last year. After many requests, I finally got off my duff to make the female version ...





    Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...gDovetail.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek,

    I love your pair of dovetail planes -- as usual your work is gorgeous and obviously functionally excellent!

    I am a big fan of sliding dovetail joints, particularly for casework, but frankly I struggle with creating the female part of the dovetail. I currently rely on the saw, chisel, router plane method, but my results are not always consistent.

    I followed the link to your blog and had a couple questions I was hoping you could help me with:

    * When creating the typical, two-sided dovetail housing (like the one in the picture above), do you first start with the dado plane and then use the female dovetail plane to create the angled sidewall, or do you create the entire housing with just the female dovetail plane?

    * I am terrible at visualization, and I'm struggling to understand the alignment of the nickers and Cutting edge of the blade relative to sole of the plane and the angled side walls of the joint. I'm sure this is obvious to most people, but appreciate any additional coaching you can offer.

    * I would love to be able to create both parts of the sliding dovetail joint with hand planes, as I am imagining it would be easier to sneak up on a "tapered" fit -- is that right? Regrettably, my current technique usually involves way too much "bashing" with a mallet to get the joint to "fit".

    Derek, as always thanks very much for sharing your work and expertise. I always look forward to your posts.

    All the best, Mike
    Last edited by Mike Allen1010; 05-02-2013 at 1:30 PM. Reason: spewlling

  10. #445
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,467
    Hi Mike, I hope the following answers your questions.

    * When creating the typical, two-sided dovetail housing (like the one in the picture above), do you first start with the dado plane and then use the female dovetail plane to create the angled sidewall, or do you create the entire housing with just the female dovetail plane?
    The female dovetail plane is new and I can used it very little so far (will be doing more shortly). Anyway, the idea is to treat a sliding dovetail (whether parallel or tapered) in essentially the same way as a dovetail in a drawer, that is, plane the male (tail) and then mark off and plane the female (pin).

    How much you use the female plane for depends on the width of the housing. Either way, use the female plane for each side first and then, if the housing is wider, remove the centre waste.

    * I am terrible at visualization, and I'm struggling to understand the alignment of the nickers and Cutting edge of the blade relative to sole of the plane and the angled side walls of the joint. I'm sure this is obvious to most people, but appreciate any additional coaching you can offer.
    The outer edge of the nickers must be coplanar with the outer edges of the blade (cutting ahead of the blade). If they are not, then the result will be a ragged track as the plane is designed for cross grain work.

    * I would love to be able to create both parts of the sliding dovetail joint with hand planes, as I am imagining it would be easier to sneak up on a "tapered" fit -- is that right? Regrettably, my current technique usually involves way too much "bashing" with a mallet to get the joint to "fit".
    Use dividers to measure the width at each end of the "tail". Transfer these measurements to the board and plane the "pin" to match.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #446
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Dakota
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    Anyone building new woodies? Rob still owes us pic of his entry.
    The Plane Anarchist

  12. #447
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ellsworth, Maine
    Posts
    1,805

    Rabbet Plane

    Well actually I just got done making this QS Beech rabbet plane. I got my blade from LN all tapered already. I am extremely happy with the results of this plane and the hardening/tempering of the blade. This holds an edge a whole lot better than my first couple of attempts at heat treating, I finally left the blade in the fire long enough. I am extremely happy with the plane too. My only concern is there is no boxing in the corner as I do not own a table saw and did not dare plow a groove at the angle necessary to add boxing in a rabbet plane. But all in all this plane is a joy to use and was a blast to make.

    unfinished side view.jpg making a rabbet.jpg finished side view rabbet.jpg

  13. #448
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    Mine from last year ( I think)

    IMAG0051.jpgIMAG0055.jpgIMAG0052.jpg
    A Chinese design of a skewed rebate plane. Two bolts through the fence, and into two square nuts in the body. Fence can go up to 1" wide rebates. Iron at one time was a Harbor Freight lathe chisel....1" skew chisel. Tang was ground off, and the end was rounded. Had to regrind the bevel to fit. About an afternoon to build..IF you make the correct cuts...

  14. #449
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
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    I didn't make these. They were made by an anonymous hobbyist who used to post here a lot. He enjoys making planes but already has enough for himself so I have been fortunate to be on the receiving end of his hobby.

    A 24" Beech Try Plane
    0913151210.jpg


    A 17" Beech Jack/Fore plane
    0919151053.jpg


    Some beautiful mortise work on the Fore
    0919151052.jpg


    Both planes together
    0924150738.jpg

    I feel very lucky to be friends with the anonymous fellow and to have received these planes. I absolutely LOVE these planes!. They are nicer to use than any metal jack or jointer I've ever used.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  15. #450
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
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    Nice heavy shavings!

    I'll second that, they're a true joy to use. In both cases when first putting them to wood and turning a shaving I can remember stopping and thinking 'wow! this is incredible'.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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